boxing frame

What do you suggest for boxing a model t frame? If i z the frame, would it be dumb to lengthen it some when i z it? Thanks Nate

 

How about building a new frame from 2 x 3-inch steel tubing, using the Model T crossmembers? It would be stronger and stiffer than a boxed orginal and save you many hours of work.

Buy an inexpensive metal stamp set from Harbor Freight and transfer the ID number from the original frame to your new one.

Consider it 'thinking outside the box(ing).'

av8

 

av8 has a really good point. Box tubing is going to be easier to work with and you could build a complete new frame (added length, z and all) in the time it would take to cut out and weld in a set of boxing plates. Plus it'll be good and stiff.

 

the model T frames are shit, there about as strong as a bedspring frame.I doubt you can use it.Try & get a model A frame.Don't waste your time.
JimV

 

ill see what i can do. Thanks Nate

 

[ QUOTE ]
Try & get a model A frame.Don't waste your time.
JimV

[/ QUOTE ]

Stock "A" frames are only marginally better than stock "T" frames.
I think you would be better off in the long run with "PLAN A..v8." (saves a lot of welding)

Mike, how ya doin'?

 

But i like welding!!! Why are a frames better than t frames?? Thanks Nate

 

An A frame is stronger and better looking than the straight old T frame. -it has the rounded front horns that are so cool......also it looks better on a T as it sits out where it shows from the side view of the car.A boxed A frame is WAY adequate for most cars...plus its more trad that rect tubing. although [hour wise]- the tube makes good sense.

 

Anybody know what a boxed A frame weighs? Just curious about it- compared to 2 x 3.

 

Nate, I know you dragged your t-frame out of the woods for free, and it's worth ever penny that you paid for it.

Around here, model-a frames sell for about $100. Or follow Mike's advice and make your own frame.

Personally, I saved my milk money for a long time and bought a repop '32 frame 'cause theyz so purty.