With all the boxing plates out there does someone make ones that you feel are better in a stock 1932 Ford chassis? Plan is to use a 1937 X member so there will be a bit of cutting and fitting. Thanks. Bob
Check out "Welder Series" they are always high quality stuff at great prices........... only $160 per full set.........and that is Canadian, so there is 25% discount on the money at the moment!
I don't know if they are any better that others on the market but I used Chassis Engineering's boxing plates on my original Deuce frame. HRP
I don't believe you need boxing plates if you have a 37 X member. I ran a test on a frame I built. I first torsionally loaded a stock frame and found the front frame horn dropped almost two inches. I tested the X member frame and got about a 1/16" drop. I then boxed the frame and found no difference. Boxing will warp the rails and make the body not fit unless you have a jig or a lot of bracing. Ask me how I know. Ford thought the X member frames were fine without boxing. It is easier to run lines and turn nuts without the boxing. Trash can also get in the boxed sections.
Although I used a Chassis Engineering X member and their plate I boxed the front and rear rails on my Deuce frame. HRP
I agree. Forward boxing is really required to make the steering box mount rigid. Perfect frame by the way!
Stated above, trash can get inside boxed rails. I have always wondered why people don't box the rails completely front to back, so dirt and water doesn't get inside. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
Like the doors you can drill drain holes, plan is to add a 354 HEMI some day, I think boxing is in order. Bob
The reason I don't box the entire frame rail is because it is not necessary for structural integrity and I run my gas line and brake lines inside the frame rails. Worrying about dirt and water getting in little nooks and carneys is low on my priority list/ HRP
I know it isn't needed for strength but it would look better, in my opinion anyway. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
Mostly for the strength but I do like the looks of a rail that is fully boxed front to back. So yes, I will be boxing my rails front to back for looks and strength. Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
If its for looks, get a set of boxing plates with the belled holes from ___________ (?) cant remember.
I'm looking to strengthen my 32 framed (un boxed) model a roadster with Industrial Chassis rear x member. I'm sick of the roadster pinch and sounding like a***** can being kicked down the road. Do any of you have experience with this setup?
On trash in boxed rails. Drill drain holes at lowest point. Put frame on two engine stands to rotate. Pour thinned Rustoleum into holes on top. Rotate frame so paint covers most of inside. You could drag a a rag on a wire thru the frame from the front to spread paint. In the end unpainted, will probably outlast our lifetime.
If a modern car can have rust protection sprayed into hollow spaces, I can't see why a frame couldn't get the same treatment.
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