in the '50s the east coast = channel...[much cheaper] work is hidden behind the skins, no body work... west coast = chopped ...[cut the gl***, chop the garnish, bondo, paint] ... you have both...
so the rear spring i has, only has 5 springs so I'm gonna make a spacer for it and se how it goes when i finally get some weight on it, if it comes down to it, if its too low ill just have to get a new spring
I ran 5 leaves under my model A coupe on '32 rails... rode good... don't remember if I used a spacer and if I did, where ? over or under ?
i think ill need a spacer and I'm going to put it on top to begin with, the original spring still has bushes in it so I've gotta try to get them out so i can fit the new ones that come with my shackles
so I'm looking for a steering box, i want a 53-64 f100 box, but it seems hard to find over here, i can get a LHD 51 f100 box, i want to use the later style box as the steering column is on the top side of the box where as the earlier one is on the lower side, if i were to use the LHD 51 box and flip it to use on the right side, would the push/pull steering still work? in my mind for a lhd car, turning the steering wheel to the right would mean the pitman arm facing down must pull backwards, flipping the box to rhd would also pull the pitman backwards (pitman arm facing up), but then fitting the pitman facing down means it would push forwards and be correct for steering.... correct??? or am i overly tired and not thinking right?
... I use a saber saw with a long metal cutting blade...slide it into the bushing, carefully cut the bushing lengthwise, but not through, that should let it collapse on itself enough to drive it out with the right size chunk of rod... sometimes I cut 2 slots opposite each other... to make installing the new ones easier I freeze them so they contract and become a little smaller... also freeze a paper cup of water to set them on, it helps keep them cold till you get ready to pop them in...
heres a few pics of what I've been up to the past few weeks, I'm waiting on my gearbox to show up so i can fit the engine and work out my gearbox crossmember, gonna have to unpick the firewall and flip it around i think. I've also bought myself a Tig welder so i can pick that up in a week and a bit when it arrives at the welding shop. then i can weld the tube work with it, weld all the spring and ladder bar mounts to the diff with it too. one i finish welding up the modified ladder bars (after my tig arrives) ill do a post showing all the steps i did to make them clear the floor. I'm also redoing the channeled floor so it fits the body a little better, ill also show you how I've done it once i actually finish it haha
love the channeled coupe, buddy has a supercharger on his '55 T'bird, but his sits flat like the air cleaner... at a local cruise nite he was asked by everyone that walked up to it if they could hear it... they use a lot more gas, a lot more... he called on his cell 2 miles from my house.... out of gas !
Ah yeah I think I know the charger your talking about, they look rad! Sent from my iPad using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
so made up a tie rod and bolted it in but the damn thing hits the bottom of the wishbones, I'm using a 4" drop SoCal axle and the deep dropped steering arms but it just doesn't work.... wtf do i do? haha maybe look for 37-41 spindles and heat/bend the steering arms down to clear
how about some pictures of what you have going on? It looks like the bones are not mounted yet, once you cut them up at the yoke to pull them up to the frame you might end up with the clearance you need.
so been getting a little bit done on the coupe recently, mostly just welding the frame and sorting out the subframe. still need to get some pics of the front end so i can get some advice on the tie rod hitting. not sure if i like the look with the mccullough blower on it though.. what do yas think? I've got the subframe all welded up and spotted together, its stiffened right up and I'm really happy with how it came out, i had the rails folded up in 2 pieces and then i spotted it all together with my tig, it has a spot weld setting so it only strikes the arc for a set amount of time, works well. i also machined a dimple die so that i could countersink the high tensile bolts into it... heres a test piece i made up to see how it goes and so i can show the inspectors when they come to check it out heres a few pics of the subframe in the body, still needs a bit of tidy up work and t******* though another thing i did was modify a set of ladder bars to clear the floor, first i cut out the centre brace, made a jig and then i could heat and bend both top tubes to the same angles. i made a new centre brace and tie welded it back in... and a cheeky weld photo, look alright i guess finally a few pics of the ch***is, i haven't taken many cause its not finished yet
i copied and pasted the photos from my facebook to see if it works, rather than using photo bucket. let me know if they all show up
also scored some goodies for the y block, a rad W&H DuPoint dizzy, finned valley cover that ill fit an oil fill and a PCV to, and a cavaliers shirt
****! they show up for me on my laptop and phone... umm what are people doing now that photo bucket is a no go?
I pull my photos directly from my phone using the HAMB app. There were a few pics that showed up initially when you started the thread but after that I start seeing the X Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
That’s weird Bc there are several posts on here that use photobucket and I don’t see them. Stopped following them because there’s nothing to see[emoji53] Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
everything I've posted is from my photo bucket up until that big post just before, i guess using pics from Facebook doesn't work I'm going to repost it with everything from photo bucket and see how it goes
The Jalopy Journal
