To this point I have never seen a brake bleeding problem that installing a set of Speed bleeders didn't cure.
Steve I just did the same exact system,and had the same problem. The cure was to reset the clearance on the master push rod. It came from Wilwood adjusted to close. I also needed to grind a little around the pedal connection. To get the pedal come back farther. This was a kit I bought for direct install into a Model "A".
im using the stock pedal with a lever welded on the bottom for the push motion . i will recheck the rod . To this point I have never seen a brake bleeding problem that installing a set of Speed bleeders didn't cure. not familiar with this item . who sells them ? ................... thanks again to all
I have had good luck with putting a hose on the bleeder putting the end in a jar half full of brake fluid. Open the bleeder and slowly pump. But the best way is like Tommy said use a buddy, not a wife. That makes for nothing but arguements.
Here http://speedbleeder.com/ ......... thanks for the link . use a buddy, not a wife. ......... my wife is better help than most . no fights , been together 50 yrs ............ done it all ! ........... my pit crew on our FED , altered , stock car , super mod ............... ill keep her ! but thanks for the thought ...
Love those speed bleeders! Ordered a set, if they work as advertised they will become standard install on restorations.
I've been doing brakes since 1974... spent a solid 12 years doing it day in, day out. The main shop I was in, we'd use the Aamco pressure bleeder if we were working alone, but the helper system worked well, we always had a couple of good people around the shop we'd grab to help. My wife is quite good at it, she understands how it works and has helped me with the stock cars more than once. Bob
lets not knock our wives here mine is right on the money, shes always helpful when asked nicely, shes pumped the pedal more than 30 times for brake bleeding for me, and i appreciate her help and shes ****** good at it, hats off to all the wives that help out like mine does, and shes a great cook as well haha back to brakes if they were leaking in the front it was coming from the wheel cylinders wasnt it, are they new, we experience this with some newies we got from shop, honed em , new cups prob solved , and no im not gonna slander where we got em, but they were from reputable parts place in states a very well known name on here, but no probs with anything else from there, just throwing u an idea here mate
leaks were from fittings not wc . they are new . on wifes ... some of us are blessed !! if i do not get the fronts done this morning , exactly how do speed bleeders work ? i think my helper & i can geter done , but just in case .......... thanks all again ! good info here ......... steve
speed bleeders are just a bleed screw with a check valve inside, you open them up a little and just start pumping, the check ball inside does not allow air back into the system, one thing is you have to install a rubber cap on the end when your done, if water gets inside and causes rust they are screwed.
When the pedal is released speed bleeders can leak a little air in around the threads. Most of the time it's not enough to be noticeable. Putting Teflon tape on the bleeder threads minimizes or eliminates the problem.
ok , so they replace the helper ? this morning we went out & rebleed the brakes . can not see any air in the fluid coming out now . pedal is firmer but not drivable . with effort the pedal will go to the floor . but it only stops an inch or so from the floor at best . just can seem the get my head around whats wrong . did all the tests suggested here . frustrated now , but determined . i guess i need new ideas please ........... steve
gonna try the speed bleeders unless someone has an idea of what ive done wrong . thanks ..... kzsteve@yahoo.com
Which style early Ford brakes you running? 39-42 with anchor adjusters of 46-48 with just the upper adjusters? If the earlier style and being it seems to be on the front only with the issue I can think of 2 things. 1 improper lower anchor adjustment or 2 very oversize drums
i was under the impression they are '42's because of the oblong bottoms on the shoes . im going to adjust again . 3rd time , but then ive been at it at least a week . just not my best thing apparently .. thanks !
One problem I have found on two cars built by friends,is the wrong year shoes being used. Early brakes,using late style shoes will not let the brakes adjust. One pump and it goes to the floor,second pump and you get a hard pedal.
42 is kinda a grey area IME on style ,but oblong hole is latesingle adjustment style. How OS are your drums?
Steve, you say its the front brakes that are not playing the game. Get your lovely helper to pump up the peddle and hold it lightly on and clamp both flexy hoses carefully with vise grips,if you have a good peddle you know its ok to that point. Release one side at a time and try them, this will let you know where the problem is and help you spot it. Wish i could pop over and give ya a hand.JW
im not sure how OS my drums are . but it doesnt take much adjustment to lock them . 26T , how bout i come there ! good idea thank you ............
deep breaths here steve, theres a logical reason, but not sussed yet, persevere here and ull win, deep breaths , have a beer and go back to it, the clamp test as formentioned is a gd way to establish brake pressure issues, but you have mentioned something earlier to say its not rears, speed bleeders or not , you should have been able to bleed these no probs without em, as good as they are, i know its been said but is that master doing what it should, when bleeding ,is the fluid coming out nicely or not when pedals pumped?? residual valve alone should be holding pressure in fronts (well atleast 10 psi) , maybe residual is faulty perhaps has been known before that a new part could be faulty, what is the fluid in reservoir doing when pedal goes up and down ( bubbles or anything abnormal), something isnt adding up here, A-tub
Any chance the tang on one of the brake shoes came out of the slot on the wheel cylinder during ***y. Helped a friend sort out a brake problem once and found that had happened when they had been ***embled.
hmmmm no idea actually . but the brakes do work sorta so i dont think so . stranger things ha happened ....... thank you ATUB .. taken lots of deep breaths & get aways . not upset , just drawing a blank here . gonna start over today .. thank you
I see that isolating the master gave you a rock hard pedal- perfect. Brake lines that go up, over, and down, can't trap air at the top. Tapping the line can help burp it. Major pain if the up & over is above the master or wheel cylinders. Fittings can **** air but not leak fluid until there's full pressure- you have not reached full pressure yet. Just keep that in mind before you go bonkers
thank you . im going out to re-evaluate my system . something stupid is going on . i DO appreciate all info as i seem to be at an imp*** . i never give up , just get confused ! LOL .............
in the past i have a similar on a 30 Chrysler, i went as far as icolating the the wheel cylinders, i removed the rubber dust covers from the wheel cylinders and made up some spaciers for the ends, these i c-clamp to each wheel cylinder, i had a solid pedal at that point, it turned out to be one wrong shoe and the shoes never being arched, i relined the shoes and arched each set to it's drum, the brakes have the excentric lower pin and the adjustable stop at the top, the right procedure for adjusting has to be followed.
Those ford brakes are pain to adjust. I would pull the drum off inspect wheel cylinder make sure its ***embled shoes back at rest. Now if you have 11 drums take a tape measure and measure across 9-3 oclock. try 10 7/8.and center best you can.See if drum goes on. If new shoes sometimes to top get in way may have to camfer grind to get drum back on.Check 10 7/8 when you pull drum first.don,t touch anything.
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