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Brake Booster Assembly

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by isaacm66, Jan 21, 2007.

  1. isaacm66
    Joined: Oct 8, 2006
    Posts: 11

    isaacm66
    Member

    When i bought My 46 Fleetmaster the previous owner had adapted a 67 Impala's booster and MC to it that never ended up working. I want to get this cars done with as little money as possible. THe car has its stock 4 wheel drum setup which I WANT to keep. I want to get the car stopping with the least amount of money and keeping the stock 4 wheel drum setup. THe previous owner trashed the orignial master cylinder and pedal assembly. I was wondering what alternatives do i have. I was looking at something on ebay which is item 140077208154. Does anybody have any suggestions. once the previous owner told me that the brakes didnt work i took apart the front brakes and noticed once i stepped on the brakes liquid never came out of either of the front two hoses even though the master cylinder was full of liquid. The car has sat for two months with both front hoses removed. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated?????
     
  2. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,207

    HemiRambler
    Member

    Front hoses may be blocked - common problem.

    Are you WANTING to trash the pedal assy in there or are you just wanting to get it to work right???
     
  3. isaacm66
    Joined: Oct 8, 2006
    Posts: 11

    isaacm66
    Member

    I just want the car stop the best it can with the 4 wheel drum setup. The hoses have already been removed....fluid still does not come out with master cylinder full of fluid and no brake hoses. I don't know how well it would function with that brake booster and mc it has now. Where should i start???
     
  4. Enginetuner
    Joined: Dec 8, 2006
    Posts: 191

    Enginetuner
    Member

    if you press the brake peddle, does fluid come out of the m/c? if it does then you should plumb it from there to your wheel cyl and bleed the system, if not then try to bleed the m/c if still no fluid check the brake rod from the peddle, apply vacume to the booster via a hand vacum pump and see if the rod will move (m/c removed from booster), if it doesn't then you may need to replace the booster.
     
  5. HemiRambler
    Joined: Aug 26, 2005
    Posts: 4,207

    HemiRambler
    Member

    My personal rule of thumb when working on a brake system that a NITWIT has touched is to start at the very beginning. First check to see if the mounts and pedal assy is sound - anything that looks amiss needs adressed before your do anything else. Once you have that - start with the M/C - yank it off and fully inspect it before you bench bleed it - this may sound a bit excessive but while you have it off you can give it a once over and determine that it's serviceable or not - all 4 ports open - seals in good shape? Once you determine it's workable unit - put in in your vise and proceed to bench bleeding it (this while not absolutely necessary - will likely save you time later). Now before you install it - double check to make sure that the M/C piston to power booster rod is set to the right clearance - I shoot for .010" or so gap here. After ou install it - bleed as normal. After it's bled - make sure the booster is actually working. Put your foot on the pedal and fire up teh motor - your pedal should drop slightly once the motor is running.
     

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