I need the brake booster rod to be 11" long to connect to the pedal. Since it needs to be about 5" longer than what's there now, I want to use 1/2" rod. The 5/16" rod that long would make me nervous. My question, is the rod in the booster removable? How? Unscrew or pull out?
As far as I can tell, no, the rod does not come out! I would cut that ****er off so it stuck out of the booster about 1", end drill the 1/2" rod to slip over the original and weld it on. Remember, the ***embly will be in compression so all you really need is just enough weld to keep it from falling apart when the pressure is off from it. Maybe try it on a junk one first and do a little bend test to check for brittleness in the weld! You and I are working on the same thing, I just tackled my pedals and master cylinder tonight.
Tony, Steve, That,s exactly what I have done to extend the rod, I cut off the eye and installed a sleeve , drilled and welded the sleeve onto the booster shaft. I have just been bleeding the brakes front and back, everything is fine. Best of luck guys
If anyone is interested, I can double check and post what booster is on my truck. The end of the rod on mine is threaded, which is nice because then the rod length can be easily adjusted. It works great with the Chevy 1-ton front and rear. Note: If it is new, then cutting the rod on your booster will kill any warranty.
I'm always interested in seeing how everyone builds their trucks. Since you and Al have the same truck as me, I would like to see how you guys did your brake pedal and booster setups.
Tony, As you know I have used the original ch***is, which has enabled me to utilize the existing brake pedal and linkage. I have installed the servo booster at the back of the cab shown in this early picture. I will take more pictures tomorrow of the linkage etc.
I went to NAPA today and ordered a dual master for a 61 Chevy truck, that is the one that has 2 parallel bores so I can split my hydraulics to control 2 Hydroboost units
I was going to use 1/2" rod and a 1/2" clevis, but the clevis was just too m***ive for me. I ended up using a 3/8" heim joint and some 5/8" tubing I had. I just need a jamb nut to complete the brake pedal to master install. It is a very straight, direct, and simple system.
That does look nice and simple. I can't tell from the pictures, have you made sure that the tire can't touch any of it when turned off short and in full bump? Mine is quite a bit different than yours, but in the same general area. I was going to clamp mine in place tonight and double check all my clearances, but I got talked into baby sitting.
BTW - If you search 1939 ford parts, you will find Ford used a 1/2" thick, large diameter foam rubber washer that mounts on the brake pedal. It slides down over the curved section and stops at the bend to the straight section. it locates just under the floorboard so that when the pedal is up it seals the hole in the floor. It also stops the pedal from banging on the floorboard.
Steve, the tire can never hit the brake linkage unless it explodes in pieces and takes out the brakes. I'm more concerned about the upper A-arm. There is a couple of inches right now and I can't compress the suspension enough by jumping on the front to bottom it out. I will need to pull the coil spring out to fully bottom it out. Then I can check the clearance. If it hits, then I need to solve that issue somehow. Thanks Mike for the info. I would really like to see Al's pedal and linkage setup. He is using the stock pedal in the stock location I think. I don't know how with the throttle in the stock location. Just seemed too uncomfortable.
Can you separate the upper ball joint from the control arm to check for interference with the brake pedal? It might be a lot easier than removing the coil spring. Also, based upon the angle of the upper a-arm when it is fully up, it looks like you would gain extra suspension clearance if you moved the rod to the inside of the pedal.
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