Hi All, OK, so I used a LISLE brake flaring tool to make the flares for my brake lines. However, several joints seem to leak a bit from around the pipe-not the threads. Is there a trick to making these not leak? I have noticed that if you look at the tube edge on sometimes there is an angle-or at least it appears there is one. Thanks, Mike
A perfect flair doesn't leak, I was taught to file the brake line before you do the double flair and do not over tighten to avoid any splits. HRP
King-Yes it does the double flare Saltflats-Yep I will have to cut it and start all over. As far as I can tell, the tool is working correctly. I am not sure of the junction block up front so I may just go with a Mustang MC so I can plumb straight to the front and rear lines. HRP-When you say file do you mean you take a fine file and scuff up the end that gets flared? Mike
Prepping the end of the tube before flaring is the key to good flares. You have to undo all the distortion the tubing cutter creates. Deburr the inside, lightly file the sharp corner on the out side & file the end flat. A very small dab of white grease on the flaring mandrel helps too.
I cut all mine with a dremel cut wheel, then chucked it in the flairing clamp to file 100% flat. No leaks and I did it on stainless tube. Don’t forget to ream the ID.
After cutting the tubing you need to deburr the id and chamfer the end before clamping it into the tool correctly.
Maybe that is what I am doing wrong, not getting it 100% flat before and after the flaring. The brakes hold pressure enough to get her on and off of a trailer for the move. Then I will replace some lines after I practice a bit more. Actually I am surprised I am doing as well as I am with no experience-just common sense (well sort of) Mike
It's best to cut the tube with a saw or cutoff wheel... a tubing cutter work-hardens the end. Then put the tube in the flaring fixture with the cut end protruding through the flat side (non-flare-side) of the fixture. Use that as your filing guide to get it deburred and square. Slightly deburr the inside and outside of the tube. Follow the normal flaring instructions, taking care to NOT overtighten the tool!!! Don't totally collapse the flare into itself... leave it a bit 'under flared' and let the assembly/tightening sequence complete the process. The idea is to make the tube conform to the fitting as it is tightened. Good luck!!!
Thank you 28 that is good set of instructions. And thanks to everyone for giving me advice. It is such a good feeling to see her starting to come together and almost be ready for the road. Well, she is year off but from what I started with she is leaps and bounds closer to the road. Mike
Expensive but I bought an Eastwood flare tool. Other companies are now advertising it. After the first flare I knew I had bought a great tool. Every double flare or bubble end is perfect. I’ve used a Lisle for years and others too at work but the Eastwood is a godsend to me. I’ll be using it again tomorrow on a new fuel line.
One problem if you you are using a tubing from a roll, it need's to be straight on the end you flare.
The tube has to be cut square, and you need to be deburr and chamfer inside and out slightly. A little lube while you are flaring helps (don't forget to clean that lube off before using the brake line). As mentioned above, a good flaring tool is very helpful. I also bought an Eastwood flaring tool a few years ago and couldn't be happier with a tool purchase.
Salflats, I am using it from a roll so I straighten it out as best I can. Maybe I am not getting it straight enough, so that is probably another issue. Thanks, Mike
The more I think about it, the more I like this advice. I normally tighten the flaring tool as much as I can. The idea of letting the fitting "bed in" the last bit of the flare makes better sense. FWIW, I use a US-made MasterCool tool. Love it. This jigger is great for internal and external deburring: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/252441659029?hash=item3ac6b20695:g:GBYAAOSwgY9XckIa&frcectupt=true Cheers, Harv
Another free tip. If your using the twin bar flare tool, keep the bars even (height wise) when you tighten them. If not the head oof the flare may be bent over a bit.
Rolling the roughly straightened tube between 2 pieces of ply, 1/2" minimum (and about 3' x 1' for maneagability) will straighten it out. Long lengths might be a challenge and require some imagination! The threads themselves don't not seal a tube nut, they provide the clamping force that makes the seal. Pipe thread is of course a different matter. I guess I've been lucky with brake pipes, including stainless, all these years! Cant say the same for 3/8" stainless fuel line. Had to get creative!! Chris
As a backup or emergency situation these have been a life saver. 3/16" copper flare gasket. B00YTF8ZTK I have found that many of the new fittings I bought recently are one time use only. The metal is so soft that it forms a groove or distortion and it will not reseal when reinstalled. I do not remember having this problem in the past.
All that I will add is be aware of the tubing you are buying. I have a number of flare tools from the old double clamp bar to the newer Eastwood like tool that use a split clamp block. The newer tool works like a charm as long as the tubing OD is on spec. I have found tubing from several sources that 3/16" tube is undersized. It's in the 0.184" to 0.185" range and not 0.187". The clamp blocks on the newer tool doesn't clamp the undersized tubing enough to prevent it being pushed out of position when forming the flare. The old double bar tool still works ok. So I now take calipers with me when shopping for tubing or by online from the one or two places that sells spec tubing.
I borrow a Mastercool kit when I do lines. I now cut them with a fine hacksaw blade, I made up soft wood blocks to hold the line in my bench vise. I file the cut end square, deburr it inside and out. I do the initial flare, look it over and clean up anything I don't like before doing the final flare.
Thanks, these are on my Amazon wish list. I have one pesky flare at my master that seeps no matter what I do, it may even be the mating surface in the offshore master.
And very important to have the mating surfaces surgically clean - get into the female part with a flashlight and make sure no crap is on there. If there already was something on there, and it has been squished into the brass surface, sometimes only a new replacement fitting will fix the weep.
The quote above should be viewed as an absolute requirement After working with this stuff, I will NEVER go back to steel line. It is so much easier to flare and bend too.
As recommended, no tubing cutter. Work hardening makes steel or ss more likely to crack while flaring. A nice square cut with a good deburing inside and out is also essential to minimize the likelihood of cracking while flaring. With 3/16” tubing I use a drill bit by hand to debur the inside, and a hand file for the outside. All other sizes of tubing I use a Ridgid brand tube deburring tool. I also strongly recommend the Eastwood flaring tool. It makes the job much nicer to do, and the results are terrific with stell or ss. I personally don’t like using the nicop, but I’m admittedly a little strange.