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Hot Rods Brake Help for Roadster

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Buck28, May 8, 2018.

  1. Buck28
    Joined: Sep 1, 2016
    Posts: 14

    Buck28
    Member

    image.jpeg The roadster project was put on hold to work on the 59 Apache but now we are back on the roadster. The frame is Z'ed, boxed & channeled, the body is 1926 from the doors forward & 1928 from behind the doors. Engine & transmission is 350/350 with a Camero rear end. I have disk brakes up front & most likely drum in the rear (not got that far) but my question is which master cylinder set up is best for this arrangement? I was told one tandem master cylinder with 60/40 split was perfect (60% for the front brakes & 40% for the rear brakes). The car sits very low so I'm fairly certain the master cylinder will have to be mounted to the firewall plus there is very little room for the brake pedal, steering column, & gas pedal. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
     
  2. V8 Bob
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 3,168

    V8 Bob
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Most single bore tandem/dual master cylinders are "split" in fluid volume output, but not pressure. A proportioning valve is what changes the rear pressure from the front.
    Side-by-side racing-style dual master pressure output can be adjusted with a balance bar, at the expense of extra cost, space and pedal efforts.
    General front/rear bias on a rear drive vehicle can be around 60/40, but many things determine actual bias; wheel base, CG, tires, brakes, axle weights, etc.
    A late '60s/'80s 1" disc/drum master, an adjustable prop valve, 2# disc residual IF the master is below-floor mounted, and a 10# drum residual if one is not internally in the master you use, is all you need.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2018
    Buck28 and Hnstray like this.

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