ok the borg warner # is s237 . it cost about 3 bucks i think . i simpy took a piece of s**** braket i had laying around and drilled a hole in it . unibits are great for this . harbor freight cheap. welded the braket to the brake pedal support and a small tab on the pedal . ran the wires out side untill i rewire the car . and works great . after veiwing this picture it looks like i need to trim the tab on the pedal . might be an ilusion.
What a great idea! The old-style pressure-operated switches are problematic, but the GM-style pedal-position switches are long-lived and trouble-free. Excellent!
Just curious, but did you not have the stock style switch, the pressure activated type? Cool fix none the less.
yes i did . but im not a fan of them . if they leak a little bit and get dusty . 12volts will cause fire . i like my car more then the old switch. ford still to this day has a problem with this type switch. they had a few trucks burn in the mid 90's and burnt the house they were parked in the garage of . it was not a fused cicuit . had 12volts continuous going to it . kinda stupid . the recal and now update kit includes a fused harness conector .
I wonder if you could use one like this for a neutral safety switch on the clutch pedal. I need to wire something up for mine so the wife doesnt crank it and run it through the shop. My wiring harness has a neutral safety wire, then maybe run a wire from the other post to the starter. any thoughts on that?
could be done with not to much effort im sure . the only thing with using this switch is the pedal would only have to move a little bit and it would start . so you wouldnt have to fully depress the clutch to make it start. i would use a clutch switch on the bottom of the travel . ill have to think , there is a car import i think that has a floor mounted switch that would be perfect . it like a square pad that you could just mount to the floor under where the pedal would hit the floor . anyways what fun is it not getting a rise out of your wife if she cranks it in gear , lol.
Yeah, it might be a little fun to watch her fire it up in gear, and being how its a carb it probably wont crank right up anyway. However, being the 400+ HP stroker beast that it is, if it does start, look out Your right, I didnt think about the clutch not having to move much to release the ****on. It would be better with something floor mounted, if you think of it let me know.
I had a '94 Ranger 5 spd and you had to have the clutch in to start,you might want to check and see what they use.
they use a big long switch mounted on the clutch master cyl. rod . most of the imports use a small switch that would work . i cant remember right now what had that square pad style in it .
Get yourself a single action, switch closed when the botton is pushed in switch good for 20 or so amps. Mount it on the floor directly in line with your clutch pedal, but a little up so you don't smash it when the pedal is all the way to the floor. You can run your solenoid wire through it, the one that goes from key " start" to the starter solenoid. Engine won't crank until pedal is down and holding switch "on" to let current flow to solenoid. There are switches with about 1/2 inch of travel so you should be able to adjust it just right. Just a suggestion.
Sounds good, I will see what I can find. I picked up one of these switches old lady posted about for $3 at the store, gonna see how that works out this weekend I hope.
Thy're on the " HELP" spin around rack at the local parts store usually. They get used alot to replace starter ****ons.......
Woo Hoo, finally got around to this saturday. Works great, will get some pics of mine on here soon. So glad to have brake lights again, thanks again for the tip, it was easy and done in less than 2 hours.
just saw this thread... i had major problems with my brake light switch on the master cylinder..kept blowing them out.. installed a GM switch on the pedal and havent had trouble since..
Here is a couple of pics of mine, only difference is I used the brake pedal arm to push the ****on in versus an additionaly bracket to hit it
That was one of the first things I did to my 55 Fairlane when I got it home . I used an old piece of metal from a exhaust hanger I had laying around . The ones with all the holes in it . I attached one end to a brake from the brake ***embly and put the brake switch on an enlarged hole and just bent into place . Been working fine for 4+ years now ..I am going to change over to power brakes this winter . Jim
Yeah after putting 80 miles on mine now, I wish I had listened to friends when they told me, "your gonna wish you had power brakes". I said nope, going from drum to disc is fine. But that durn stroker motor gets rolling real fast and sometimes dont stop as easy as I want it to, so I think I may be doing that swap to.
well ct fortner. i finaly seen what the clutch switch that floor mounts . the clutch arm hits it when down. its a saturn. the old body saturns are call sl series. this particular car was a 96 sl2 naturaly 5 speed. be easy to make this switch work. the factory has it making the ground close on the starter relay.
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