My brake lights no longer light up, and the turn signals have a few seconds delay before they activate. Information from my internet search is pretty light on info for this system. The brake lights go thru the turn indicator switch as I understand, correct? I can't figure out how to remove the turn signal switch. Can anyone tell me how to remove it? I did have the front parking lights/front turn signal wires disconnected from the junction blocks last week to repair the parking light bezels. But I confirmed that my tail lights and signals worked correctly all around after I plugged them back in. I think this brake light problem is coincidence, but anything is possible. Also, I cannot find the circuit panel or fuse box under the dash. Please advise.
Before. Removed the switch I would check grounds and check the pressure switch. If it's original it likely does not have a fuse box. It used circuit breakers. On fused stuff like radios, normally you'll find an inline fuse. Get a shop manual.
There won't be a fuse box. The brake light switch is the most likely culprit for the brakes. It is probably under the car somewhere, probably near the master cylinder, it will look kind of like this. It's pretty common for them to go bad, and it's also pretty common for the modern replacement units to go bad after a little while. Welcome to the joy of old cars.
Old car? buy a manual for it. Exploded parts manual too. Cl***icCarwiring.com 11"x 17" laminated wiring diagram in color. less than $20.
There isn't one...this is not a modern car. Forget all you think you know. The advice above on a manual and wiring diagram is not a suggestion it's a must. The most important fuse on a 50's FOMOCO in on the rear of the light switch. The rest are inline if there is any at all.
The reason I asked about the circuit box is because I found this online. This must be a rewired "improvement".
If you told us where you found that wiring diagram, it might shed some light on it. Do you think that it's possible that diagram is for a modified car, or do you believe it must be an original diagram for how the car was built at the factory?
I can tell you about where it's at on a F1. ...... Going by what I rember on the F1 it will be close to the gauge cluster. It's either next to the gauge cluster under the dash, on the gauge cluster or on the firewall under the dash. I know that's not much help but you will know it when you see it. Before that, Get a helper or at least a mirror. Place mirror or even a piece of white posterboard behind the car where you can see it underneath if you do not have a helper. This way you can see the reflection of the tailights. Start at the taillights. Turn the running lights on to see if have them. Remove the lenses. Inspect the bulbs. Make a short jumper wire. Just skin both ends of a short wire. Get under the car at the master. Secure it safely....jack stands and all that... Remove the two prongs at the brake switch. Cross jump these two brake light wires with your jumper wire. If the switch is bad....you will have brake lights when you cross jump. Get one and replace,it as Squirrel sugested. No brake lights? Now it's time to go further with chasing wire. Looking for broken wires, looking for missing or even making new grounds. Now you can get under the dash and check the fuse on the breakers. I mentioned grounds and making grounds. These cars should have a ground strap from the engine to the frame or engine to the body. Sometimes these are missing, have been painted or are rusty at the connection. Sometimes the main ground from the battery is poor due to the same reasons, rust or paint. Sometimes the main ground from the battery has been replaced and is too small a gauge wire. It does not hurt to add small ground wires or a ground wire between the frame and body at the rear. Paint and rust make it hard to ground through the body bolts. Some tailights ground through the ***embly, others have a wire. Making sure the body is ground to the frame can only help. Sometimes all it takes is just cleaning up ***emblies and making sure all the factory grounds are there and clean.
The more you touch those old cloth covered wires the more problems you will encounter, plan on rewiring it if you plan on driving it much.
I have brake lights! I unhooked the pressure switch wires and they came off very easily. The were also filthy. I jumped the wires and the lights lit up. I cleaned the prongs on the switch. Then I cut away the swelled/deteriorated insulation on the wire connectors. In addition to being dirty and corroded, one of them was extremely loose. I don't know how I ever had brake lights... (I might not have). I cleaned them up really good with electronic parts spray and rolled up sand paper. Now the lights work. Thank you for your responses.
Get a spare one and find out if that's brake fluid leaking all over the master. You pop a seal on the master (or run empty) and your brakes won't work so well. On the single master systems you really have to stay on top of maintenance.
That's great! I almost wrote "Canned Monster" 1oldtimer brings up a very important point... Casey It may be time for a brake system overhaul. I really think it needs your attention. It may not be leaking, the moisture in the photo may be humity or the cleaner used. I can't tell. What I can tell for sure is corrosion. They may work fine but I really think you need to restore the ch***is part of the brake system. New lines.....new rubber lines.....overhauled master. You can see how just cleaning up those connections have improved things. I thinks it is wise to clean up the whole system. Brake fluid attracts water. Over time water enviably contaminates the system. Basically it fills up with muddy fluid that's murder on the cylinders themselves and the rubber seals. This causes leaks. Leaks cause Zero Brakes. Most likely when you to loosen the fittings, say to remove the master.....The line is going to brake due to the fitting being locked rusted in place. I have a personal rule...... If a fitting is rusted so bad I can't remove it with out cutting the line or twisting the line, All the lines needs replaced. It's a dirty job but I feel it's absolutely essential. Another thing that is essential, A Working Parking/Emergency brake. If black rubs off on your hands from the runner lines. That's oxidation and those need to be replaced as well. Some Ni- Cop line, a good flaming tool, fittings and you'll be in business. A working master like you have is a good candidate for an overhaul. Some of the import masters can vary in quality. A master that's sat up for a long time and not working...not so much.
I had to go through a few switches before I found a brand that trips at a low PSI and lasts. So now I have 2 spares in my glove box. They have to be kept clean as you have found out. Look up schematics on The Old Car Project, they should have one for the Merc. I don't know what the 1st year for fuse boxes on Fords was, but it wasn't in 1959. Mine was all fuse holders. With a car that old, it may not be a bad idea to replace the turn signal switch, pick up a manual, good as gold for working on these old heaps.
On eBay, the seller is Gearhead World, I've bought other stuff from him too. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-Ford...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l9372
You tell me there isn't a circuit breaker box... You tell me that I need a wiring diagram... You also tell me to forget what "I think I know"... Here is the wiring diagram I bought. (clearly showing wires going to a circuit box). Thanks bud.
Just so happens I was sorting through a huge pile of 49-51 Merc stuff I bought recently and found this little guy, this is what that piece looks like in the flesh. Gonna post it here for future reference, since the internet never dies and apparently there aren't pics of one posted anywhere else on the web. Not real sure where it mounts though, other than "under the dash".
The Jalopy Journal
