Yep One thing the OP can try is take a wooden dowel to his bench grinder and groove the dowel, then work the tubing around it, I;ve done it with making larger-uniform coils, but never tried it in a tight radius...but who knows. But there was a suggestion I saw earlier in the thread, that suggested a 90* fitting, that would be cool, but I've never seen one, so going to go to Google and see what pop's up. Edit: Google image search shows many 90* inverted flare fittings, but unfortunately, the other end is a barbed fitting, not real conducive for brake pressure...but jeez, ya'd think someone makes them?
I cut my own slots to the same outside diameter as the pipe I want to bend in a wooden rod of the diameter I want when I am done. I cut a relief for the end so I can put the tube and my brace in a vise, so I can bend to exactly the angle I wish. This gives a real good, clean bend with a tight radius. Any round piece of wood, even a tree branch can be used to get the correct radius for the bend. If you don't own a lathe, the slots could easily be marked and cut with a saw. I have used sand to fill exhaust pipe to make wrinkle free bends, but I have never tried it with brake lines, and I would be worried about getting them clean after the bending. Bob
I have these 90* fittings that I used on my 48 p/u. But they won't help me with what I'm trying to do . These are made by BrakeQuip. I need 7/16 x 24 ,the ones I have are 3/8 x 24. When I bought these I had to order them from a hydraulic hose co. that is about 30 miles from me. To lazy to make the drive x 2. Bill
Wow wrote this 3 hrs ago and never hit "post reply" but I had a great dinner at a new restaurant around the corner from my house. OK that doesn't help with bending but that's what happen. That's exactly what you need to do BUT you will only gain a 1/4" to 3/8" your flaring tool will determine
Couldn't you use one of those spring benders? Ya just slide the tubing in the spring bender, bend as needed and then slide the spring out.
Are you bending first, or putting the nut on, flaring it, then bending? You might be able to bend it, cut it closer, then flare it, if you can get enough clearance for the nut. Or change the shape. Instead of a left 90* bend, make a right 90* bend followed by a 180* U. Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.
This was an interesting idea for bending brake tube. By the look of it you could get a bend pretty close to the end if required.
I have never saw those before cool, but like others have said those pliers in your photo do work good in closed areas where a tighter bend is needed Randy Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Have seen many a roll bar tubing packed with sand and bent between 2 pine trees with the pipe heated with a rose bud. Never tried it with brake line , just use different size sockets for different size bends. I use both steel and that new NiCopp line. I have 3 different kinds of benders, usually just use my hands.
Bending using a radius is key to not flattening out the tubing. I have a KD line bender that works pretty well, although it is limited for making bends close to the fitting.
I have to flare it first, My flaring tool won't work with a tight radius. If I can get a handle on this today, I'll post some pics later on. I have said this before, but I'll say it again, I just love hangin' out with you guys Bill
Here is a link, I use the 1" bore unit. http://www.wilwood.com/MasterCylinders/MasterCylinderList.aspx?group=High Volume Master Cylinder
Well ,here's the end result. You all will probably think that I am nuts, over thinking this , anal and I'll admit to all those things I didn't want to see the bracket for the brake hose ( yeah ,that's what this is all about) But ,I wanted it to look half decent on both sides of the frame. No excess brake line on the inside. I bought a pair of those line bending pliers and made a couple practice runs, then I jumped right to it. Thanks to all you guys, I appreciate everybody's input. Bill
For the person asking about flaring afterwards the problem with flaring afterwards is that your limited as to how close to the bend you can get by the flare nut length and the clamp thickness. If you have a couple inches or more after the bend you might get away with flaring after bending but anything less will be a crap shoot. I think the pliers type of bending tool would probably get you closest.
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