Brake Line dos and don'ts

I'm pretty sure it's copper, cuz it have the special copper color that's so easy to recognize! Look in my photos of the panel truck! Isn't the ones you're talking about much lighter in the tone?

 

Whats everyones take on Dot 5 Dot 3?

 

All good stuff right there. Dang, why didn't I think about the coat hanger deal.

 

I use Dot 4 in everything i build, never had a problem. I'm not sure about the synthetic fluid, had problems with it in the past.

 

Yep. Dot 4 in everything I build also. I prefer Castrol's GT LMA (low moisture absorption) the Dot 4 has a slightly higher boiling point than Dot 3, but they are compatible, so no worries if you have to use some Dot 3 in a pinch.

Dot 4 also won't eat natural rubber; not much of a problem with American stuff, but common in British and German brake systems, many of which find their way into my garage.

I've heard too many bad things about Dot 5 in automotive applications to try it, whereas the only real problem with Dot 3 or Dot 4 is it'll strip paint. Well, that just makes it easy to find the leak!!

 

TIP....I have a set of Imperial benders that work great, But a tip for bending real tight bends not far from open ends.. I have found that a spiral housing from a choke cable or likewise cable used as a inside mendel will stop kinking....

 

ok boys...
Your brake line dragged on the floor and got a little dirt ...how do you properly clean it through?

 

Brake spray.

You can also flush the lines with rubbing alcohol before you run the brake fluid in for the first time. If you're concerned about getting chunks of stuff in a wheel cylinder or something, undo the line and run the alcohol through, then bolt it back up.

 

My first car was a 36 Ford coupe that I converted to hydraulic brakes. Got my license in Texas at 12. At the age of 12 or 13 and didn't know the problem of using copper lines. I used only one from the back to master cylinder and it blew out when I clomped down while hotrodding around. Didn't wreck but scared the Hell out of me.
Tractorman Bill

 

This may be a noob question, but will this steel line thats green on the outside work?
Also as far as using plastic tubing, even I know better...I may be a noob, but I am not a ****.
Thinning the herd I guess.

 

bump

 

I haven't heard about that problems in the past but I know I use Dot 4 also and have no problems at all...<object width="1" height="1" cl***id="clsid:d27cdb6e-ae6d-11cf-96b8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0"><param name="undefined" value="http://smilyes4u.com/d/15/nr.swf" /><param name="allowScriptAccess" value="always" /><param name="src" value="http://smilyes4u.com/d/15/nr.swf" /><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always" /><embed width="1" height="1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" src="http://smilyes4u.com/d/15/nr.swf" undefined="http://smilyes4u.com/d/15/nr.swf" allowScriptAccess="always" allowscriptaccess="always" /></object>

 

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe the "Kunifer" is an alloy of Copper (Cu changed to Ku), Nickel (Ni), and Iron (Fe) or perhaps "ferous". I think this was developed in Europe and that is why the use "copper" lines when in fact it is probably Kunifer lines.

Comments?

 

Bumps

 

This is a helluva good idea, I bend all my tubing by hand, always used the box end of a wrench on the inverted nut, never once thought of this, helluva good idea.

 

Words of wisdom here.

 

You can bend 3/16" by hand while you are routing it, so it's much easier to work with than 1/4".

Also, it's better to make a line too long and add a few loops or bends to it to shorten it than it is to make it just long enough or slightly too short and find out it doesn't fit AFTER you've begun routing it.

 

That's the same stuff I used....it's perfectly adequate.