Customs Brake line fittings

Ok guys ... Next one

Going to do all new brake lines around truck.
Like everything else never done before.

Whats required in terms of fittings.
Basically i have ordered

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015YGQYW2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


and

http://www.eastwood.com/professiona...rkkDm7oi9L0M7tUWiK-62sLxJTbnJyE_B7BoC7VXw_wcB

what fittings do I actually need at each point though .......

eg ??

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-12-24-F...rd_wg=RFhgV&psc=1&refRID=5RMJBYBQW56DZV1FGSGR

or a mix of other fittings ?

Dakota IFS front
Explorer 8.8 rear.

 

Fixed Thanks squirell ...... not sure something when copying from my mobile as it was posted from phone

Just finished puttinmg in/mocking rear axle and welding front sheetmetal.
Have a wheel on way with small -ve offset ..... Ill add a tire and check and then order 4 wheels/tires.

figure need to get brakes done ......... (hydroboost off a 1500 truck and brake lines) ...... then work on wiring and interior ........ before I can finally look for an engine

 

If I recall correctly, the Dakota uses metric thread fittings.


Sent from my iPad using H.A.M.B.

 

Thanks mgtstump - Brisbane hey - Im a sandgroper Yes I may need a good tube cutter and bender to be addedto list as well as holdodwns.
The fitting part is the confusing part I mean ......... for starters like David mentioned SAE or metric ......... thread size ..... and how many different sizes for different lcoations (eg line terminations at actual brakes , MC differnt size) etc

 

Plugging in 1993 dakota into autozone for frono soft lines ... get

http://www.autozone.com/brakes-and-...t/duralast-brake-hose-front/124782_99196_2362

Fitting Size (1): Banjo - 0.375
Fitting Size (2): Female - 3/8-24

So looks like its 3/8-24 ......... guess thats one way to determine

 

You need the correct tube nut for the flare needed. DOT flares are 45 degrees and are recessed where the flare seats whilst the other tube not is flat in the same area.
http://www.fedhillusa.com/webnuts/common flares6.pdf

 

Thanks - I had read that website - but not that actual article.
As they mention in the doc for double flare...

The 3/8 x 24 UNF American nut will thread very easily and loosely into a 10mm x 1.0 thread fitting but will hopefully strip the threads when you tighten it down You can start the 10mm x 1.0 thread nut in a 3/8 x 24 UNF thread fitting but it will immediatly begin stripping the threads

So guess the way to tell is get one of each ...... and start threading the 10mm to see if it takes or not ... if not then should be 3/8-24

Not sure about the MC end......

 

I'm a big fan of copper nickel brake line. Like stainless, do it once and forget about it, no rot like steel lines. Bends very easily.
Hate to tell you this, but I have the same Eastwood flaring tool that you linked to, nice tool for steel line but does not make useable flares in copper nickel. I've tried 3/16 and 1/4 line, for some reason their tooling doesn't start a double flare nicely, doesn't produce a nice 45 degree double flare. I use my decades- old Mac flaring tool for copper nickel. I buy the line and flare nuts from my local NAPA store.

 

I use that exact roll of tubing and the exact bender all the time. I've done probably eight complete brake plumbing jobs in the past few years. Out of hundreds of flares, I've messed up three or four, usually attributable to not deburring well enough. I've used it on 3/16", 1/4", 5/16" cunifer. I even use it for "bubble" on the end of fuel lines so they don't slide off by barely starting the flare with the second step. I love that tool. Like others have said, just get all of your parts together and try to screw the fittings in where they go before you start making lines up. Good luck, you've got the right start.

 

I bought a kit from that same vendor. Cupro-nickel is great stuff like everyone says. I'm using it with my decades old KD flaring tool and it works great.

 

Speedway is a good source for lines and fittings.

 

The basic KD Tools double flaring kit, sold at NAPA, and other places, works just fine. I used one, or another, for a few decades, until I moved up to a hydraulic Mastercool unit.