My build is coming along great and i would like to do whatever i can on the frame (Brake Lines) before i mount my bed and body. My question being that i dont even know where to start or what materials to use. Im sure there is more than one way to skin a cat in this situation. Do i need to run steel lines against the frame? If anyone knows of a great thread with the basic guidelines i should follow please throw it my way. I have used the "search" function but most questions are very specific. I need some basic info to get some lines ran. Heres what i have to work with, and some pics. o Camaro Rear with Drum o Pacer front with Disk
The basic system is 3/16 steel lines. Running a disc/drum you'll a proportion adjustment valve to see that the front breaks take the brunt of the force and lock up first. Asuming you're going to run an under the floor booster you'll need a 2 psi residual valve for the front and 10 psi valve for the rear to keep fluid in the lines. Go online. There is a ton of information about hot rod brake systems. Best of luck! Also try Ebay,Speedway,So Cal or the like. You can usually get everything in one complete kit.
Thanks for the speedy response. Any suggestions on a universal kit? I have found a few but i don't want to pay $$$ for a P.O.S.
Just check your master cylinder before you put residual pressure valves inline. Many M/Cs have them already. To check just get a small drill bit and gently insert it into the M/C outlets. If there's a valve you'll feel the slight resistence of a spring pushing back. If you can't flare your own lines you can take some accurate measurements and buy pre flared sections in various lengths. Never tried it but I've seen the pre flared sections in shops. pete
Here's one I used from Speedway for a little over $100.00. There's others with more options and also the choice of stainless steel lines. If you want to go old school with ribber lines and all there are kits for that too. This is a good starting point. James
Be sure and keep your lines out of harms way...keeping them off the bottom of the frame where they can be smashed flat etc. just use plain horse sense and you will do a great job to be proud of... you got plenty of great help right here on the Hamb.
man its easier than you think, you can buy a cheap double flare tool kit for 50 bones, and about 10 bucks for 10 feet of 3/16 line. buy a cheap tubing bender and work away. if you mess up, you can just redo it. i did mine in regular steel, **** it lasted all these years, im sure it will last for my lifetime. do a little research before you start, its easy!!!
How do you fasten the brake line to the frame? Do you run the brake line right against the frame, or use some sort of spacer so there is a small gap between the line and the frame? Running a small gap might be advantageous, I noticed on my old frame that a ton of dirt collects between the brake line and the frame when the line runs right against it...
i used one hole straps that had rubber inside the eye hoop, right to the frame! they have them at auto part stores and hardware stores.
I saw some really cool brake line mounting brackets on Trucks. I did a search but I can't find them but they are 2 piece and you just drill and tap and they are plastic and in 2 pieces.
I just finished mine. Went down to one of the local auto part stores and bought various lengths of steel brake line for under $50. A couple of them had to be cut down or replace the ends with the right fittings. A local plumbing supply store flared the ends for me for about a buck apiece. After these photos were taken I secured the lines to the frame with line clamps. Spent most of a day doing mine for under $75 with clamps
i found them once but i didnt bookmark the page, wow over priced and they look like **** to me. but if you like them, by all means use them. many different types of straps on the market. for me i just want it secure, and safe. its not like im driving a show car, i still want it to look good, but not going to worry if its not super perfect.
i'm doing the brakes on my 50 right now.. i went with speedway parts.. i drew out a diagram of my system so i could figure out what i needed and ordered the parts individually.. tubing, already flaired tubing with fittings on, tee's, a risidual valve for the rear, adjustable proportion valve, clips and some other odds and ends. pretty easy job.. you will need to cut and reflair a few pieces though..
Personally, I would stay away from the rolls of brake tubing. I've always found it was a lot more work to get the coiled stuff to look (and lay) right. Use a bender, not your thumbs. The instructions for laying out and bending brake tubing are on the Net. Anywhere you have a transition from hard line to flex, use a tab and bulkhead fitting, NOT just a line clamp. Adel clamps are fine for holding the lines to the frame. The 2 piece aluminum or plastic clamps are better but much more pricey....
Any particular flairing & bending tools you all recomend? Ill be doing this soon as well. I figured it would be harder to work with the rolls. Do you save much $$ verses buying the straight hardlines and starting from there? Thanks
if you want a good set thats not junk and not over priced you can order the single/double flaring tool from speedway, 37 deg for stainless and 45 deg for standard brakes. they also have a few different types of line clamps insulated and not.
And, just in case you are wondering why brake lines aren't perfectly straight, you want to remember to put a j bend in them. This allows for a slight amount of flex in the line. the pics in post #12 are a great example. Also, unless you REALLY love stainless and changing everything to 30 degree fittings, just stick with steel lines and a good, cheap double flaring tool.
I was told a long time ago that the hard lines should be clamped every i8 inches [or less] on straight runs. Like for example, down the frame. The reason being that if a section of line that's too long is left un-suported, it will vibrate and flex, and could cause a weak spot to develop within a year. Dont know if it's true or not, but it makes sense, and the clamps are cheap enough that it's not a big deal. I used the eastwood kit once, but have since discovered that my local parts store has all the same stuff in stock and I can duplicate the kit for about $70. But for a first timer, I'd suggest the eastwood kit since it's complete and it includes instructions along with phone/tech support.
Several mentions have been made about a double flaring tool, but no one has made this point; steel lines must be double flared or they will leak. Another material besides steel and stainless is available, "cuper" something? Anyone know? I read it's available at NAPA stores, is more readily bent, and very resistant to corrosion. Some Scandinavian car uses it. Anyone?
Here's the ticket. if you don't want to buy a roll of brake line you can by straight pieces in various lengths from all autoparts stores, the roll is cheaper. You can also got your Flare nuts and any Tees or Unions that you need in the same place. You will need one flex line for the rear end and a Tee that mounts to the rear and you'll need a flex line for each wheel on the front. The front hard line ts somewhere near to the axle. i never use stainless on anything steel line is good enough unless you are going to appearance. I live in the midwest where liquid salt is used and it gets into and behind everything. I have bought vehicles with 30 or 40 year old original brake lines and they are still intact and usable. Good luck Benno
i used these available in various sizes ,stainless steel ( http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performance+Products/555/82035/10002/-1)
Cuprio-nickel are readily available now. They were OE with Volvo. Very easy to bend and don't rust. They also have a nice copper-like colour to them.
Here is what I was looking for: https://www.made4uproducts.com/cart/proddetail.php?prod=30-899 They make the clamps in all different colors and configurations for flat, tube etc. I think you just drill a hole and tap it and the clamps are all removable and replaceable.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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