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Brake line recommendation

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Frank Jonkman, Dec 16, 2012.

  1. Frank Jonkman
    Joined: Nov 28, 2005
    Posts: 46

    Frank Jonkman
    Member

    Looking to start plumbing in brake lines, what size would be recommended?
    Specifics:
    Tilton style master
    No power assist
    Disc fronts
    Drum rears
    Heavy on the front
    When would you consider running 1/4" instead of 3/16"?
    Does it make a difference, I can't see why it would, if there is a reason or logic behing bigger/smaller lines....let's hear why.
    Thanks for the help.
     
  2. use 3/16" all the way and you will be just fine
     
  3. 55willys
    Joined: Dec 7, 2012
    Posts: 1,715

    55willys
    Member

    3/16 line is the standard in use today. the smaller size means that it can handle higher pressure. there is less surface area for the psi to push on.
     
  4. fatkoop
    Joined: Nov 17, 2009
    Posts: 713

    fatkoop
    Member

    The diameter of the line in a hydraulic brake system really doesn't have much affect on the braking as long as it is not restricting the flow. In other words, you won't improve your braking buy putting in 1/4" lines vs. 3/16" lines. The combination of the right master cyl. and the right wheel cyls. and pedal leverages, drum diameters and width or drums vs. discs is where its all at.
     
  5. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,230

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    I do as most GM factory stuff from the 60s up, 3/16" from the distribution block to each front wheel, 1/4" from the distribution block to the rear brake hose, 3/16" to each rear wheel.
     
  6. Pimpin37zephyr
    Joined: Jul 20, 2010
    Posts: 110

    Pimpin37zephyr
    Member

    Hey droptop70ss could 1/4 on the fronts be use with your combo instead of 3/16. Would the rear have to increase as well. Hope this isn't hijacking the tread.
     
  7. drptop70ss
    Joined: May 31, 2010
    Posts: 1,230

    drptop70ss
    Member
    from NY

    I am no brake designer so I copy what the factory did, so far all of my cars stop ok :) If you have parts designed for 1/4" I am sure it would work fine, as already stated the big thing is matching up the correct parts and pedal leverage. I try and stick with complete factory setups as far as master cylinder piston size, calipers, and wheel cylinder size. Brake pedals I modify as needed.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2012
  8. Dane
    Joined: May 6, 2010
    Posts: 1,351

    Dane
    Member
    from Soquel, CA

  9. JEM
    Joined: Feb 6, 2007
    Posts: 1,040

    JEM
    Member

    That Cunifer line is nice stuff, it's pretty, the mechanical properties are comparable to Bundyweld, it's a little more corrosion resistant, it doesn't work-harden quite as quickly as the Bundyweld if you're fiddling and tweaking bends, but it's considerably more expensive if that matters.

    And, yeah, I can't think of any places in a passenger-car brake system where I'd need 1/4in tube.
     
  10. 40FordGuy
    Joined: Mar 24, 2008
    Posts: 2,907

    40FordGuy
    Member

    Ditto, fatcoop's post.

    4TTRUK
     
  11. OLDSMAN
    Joined: Jul 20, 2006
    Posts: 2,422

    OLDSMAN
    BANNED

    Most cars from the factory run 3/16 to the front and 1/4 to the rear flex hose, and then 3/16 to each rear wheel. I have always followed these ideas, and have had great brakes on my cars
     

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