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Technical Brake Master Cylinder Lenghth

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Dino 64, Apr 10, 2021.

  1. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    So I need figure how long my push rod needs to be. Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
    It’s a disc/drum unit with no booster. 7/8 bore. Want to be sure I don’t damage it.
    Thanks :)
     
  2. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,207

    squirrel
    Member

    long enough so the piston gets pushed in all the way as the pedal reaches the floor. Might require you to do some measuring, push the piston in all the way with a screwdriver (with the M/C disconnected, or the bleeders open), see how far it moved. Then set up the pedal and pushrod so you get that much travel.
     
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  4. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Thanks @squirrel, I assume that’s with no fluid in the M/C ?
     
  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,207

    squirrel
    Member

    yeah, if there's no fluid it's easier, but if there is fluid, make sure something is open to let it out when you push the piston in all the way.
     
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  6. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Thanks again :)
     
  7. TA DAD
    Joined: Mar 2, 2014
    Posts: 1,562

    TA DAD
    Member
    from NC

    And you need to make sure you have some type of stop on the pedal return to keep the push rod from being able to come out of the mc.
     
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  8. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Thanks, that’s not the problem, I have a return spring to keep pressure off of it. The problem is it’s leaking from where the push rod enters the M/C. Was thinking maybe the push rod is too long and causing it.
     
  9. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,207

    squirrel
    Member

    that's a leaking seal in the master cylinder.
     
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  10. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Brand new, maybe it’s defective. The other issue is the push rod enters at a slight angle, thought maybe that was contributing to the leak as well ?
    Thanks
     
  11. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    We pumped the pedal to bleed it, maybe caused the seal to fail ??
     
  12. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,207

    squirrel
    Member

    no, pumping is not going to cause a seal to fail.

    The angle thing, need more information. The pushrod should only contact the piston at the end of the pushrod, not the side. If it's binding, then you need to fix the issue. I still doubt it would cause a leak, though.
     
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  13. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Just a slight angle to the push rod. The push rod was provided by Brookville with the chassis. It’s just a straight rod with a rounded end. The push ro the came with the master cylinder had a ball at the end with a rubber ring. Should I have adapted that push rod instead of the straight one ?
     
  14. TA DAD
    Joined: Mar 2, 2014
    Posts: 1,562

    TA DAD
    Member
    from NC

    I was just pointing that out because you would be surprised how many cars are built where you can pull the pedal back and the rod will drop out of the cylinder, I was in a shop the other week and they where working on some pile and you could side step the brake pedal and it would pop out of the cylinder. Just thought I would share.
     
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  15. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    All suggestions are welcome, I appreciate the advice very much o_O:)
     
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  16. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,207

    squirrel
    Member

    The pushrod with the rubber ring at the end, is designed so it won't fall out...as TA DAD mentioned.
     
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  17. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

  18. 36cab
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 941

    36cab
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    And when you do the test push be careful using a screwdriver. It is easy to slip and score the cylinder wall. They make a bench bleed tool that does not have a sharp end.
    s-l1600.jpg
     
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  19. Dino 64
    Joined: Jul 13, 2012
    Posts: 2,533

    Dino 64
    Member
    from Virginia

    Nice, I made this one, thanks A5D29B4E-F28F-454B-AF08-FB17F5544062.jpeg
     
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  20. 1971BB427
    Joined: Mar 6, 2010
    Posts: 9,667

    1971BB427
    Member
    from Oregon

    Slight angles aren't a problem. Most factory pedal assemblies vary angles depending on whether they're manual or power assist. The leaking is quite likely a defective master, and I'd get it warranted and not mess with it.
    The pushrod needs to have slight play between the master piston, and pedal, or it wont ever bleed correctly. Too much play and it can drop out of the recess in the master. It should also have a rubber boot on the master to help keep the pushrod centered at all times.
     
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