I need to order a rebuild kit for my 63 Impala, how do I tell if I have a 7/8" bore or 1" bore master cylinder without taking it apart? Is there a part number stamped somewhere on there that I'm not seeing? The brakes are all stock, has a single bowl master cylinder with manual drum brakes if that helps.
I have a 59 that had a similar set up until just recently. sorry i cant help with identifying the bore size, but i would suggest getting rid of it and changing over to one of these fandangled power booster firewall mounted kits. not only do they clean the engine bay up and work a **** load better but they're safer aswell. if you can avoid using the remote booster set up with one line in one line out master cyl i cant advise it enough after actually paying some fool "professional" to do some brake line work between the VH40 and the Master Cyl and back down to the T piece on the ch***is, i find he's put NO vibration coils in the line the hardway, by losing my brakes on the highway doing around 65/70mph. these firewall boosters eliminate this problem because when installed correctly if you have a problem with say the back brakes, the front should still work. if you do go down that road just make sure your put vibration coils in the new lines between the lines coming from the ch***is and the master cyl... lol.
thank for the info but i would rather just rebuild my master cylinder right now. maybe one day i will have the money to put disc brakes on it, then i will put a booster on it.
You should be able to unbolt the cyl from the firewall and pop the rubber boot off well enough to get an internal caliper or a vernier caliper in there. Previous poster is correct about the vibration coils. With a frame based car, the frame is isolated from the body on rubber mounts, so that sez vibration, as the body can move slightly, relative to the frame. not so important on a unibody vehicle, but then most HAMB vehicles aren't unibody.
Power drums are a big upgrade, my booster was about $100.00 the duel master about $50.00. A couple short pieces of tube and your done.
If you're driving the car right now and want to do the MC rebuild when you get the parts...then just buy both rebuild kits. They're cheap. Return the one you don't use for a refund. If you're not driving the car, then yank the MC...measure the bore, and buy the kit you need. They are usually in stock at the local auto parts stores.
the transmission is out in my truck right now so i have to drive the car, and to make it worse money is tight and rent is due next week. i'll buy the kit with the 7/8" bore and hope that works, it's $17 through cl***ic industries. thanks for all of the input guys
You should be able to get either at most NAPA stores or at least overnight. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Re...kit&Ntk=Keyword&N=599001+101964+50012+2012032 Our self styled experts tend to forget that until 1968 all but a couple of American vehicles had single master cylinders. Yes they aren't quite as safe in some respects as a dual cylinder but they usually rebuild good if they aren't severely pitted and are fine if you stay on top of things and keep the brake system in good shape. The bore size on some master cylinders is cast into the outside of the cylinder so you might want to check the outside of it. You will need to hone the cylinder and clean it good before re***embling it to.
You'd be surprised at what the local parts houses can get sometimes! Order both and take the unused one back!!!
The Jalopy Journal
