Having built a really cool shifter for my ride (to break in the new drill press!), I'm ready to tackle my NEXT project...building a hanging brake pedal****embly custom fit to my 49 Chevy to use a firewall mounted master cylinder. I have the basic design figured out in my head, but I'd appreciate seeing any pictures of pedal****emblies y'all have built for your rides...to compare notes and such! (C9???) Don't worry...it will employ typical Fat Hack Overkill Practices...plenty SAFE...if not pretty! What's a good dual reservoir master cylinder to use? (I'd like to run an OEM master cylinder instead of race car stuff...something I can get at a parts joint anywhere...here's the specifics 1949 Chevy, V6 auto, 10-bolt rear axle, disc brake conversion up front. Thanks in advance for any and all input, Gang!
I would be interested in this also, specifically how to deal with the pushrod length, length of pedal travel, etc??? I understand pedal ratio it is just some of the other "math" I am unsure about. I would like to build an Ansen style pedal to use a m/c - hyd. clutch setup. Hope someone can chime in on this topic...
The ratio needs to be around 6:1 or 7:1. Bronze bushings on any pivots,and the bushing should ride on a smooth diameter,not threads.
The latest Custom Rodder has a good article on brakes, discusses pedal ratio's, master cylinder bore sizes versus pedal action, etc. Some good info relating to your task at hand.
have yall checked out 60-66 chevy truck duel res. master cylinder .a few buddys of mine run those in roadsters
Why bother? The car companies have done all the research and engineering for you! I used a 1980 Monte Carlo as a donor for my 54 Chevy, and used the swing pedal, brackets, booster, master cyl., and proportioning valve off it. Once you place the height of the pedal off the floor, you just drill 5 holes, and then brace up the firewall to handle the extra stress on it. I used a piece of 16 ga. steel, bent up about 1/4" on 2 ends behind the swing pedal bracket, rosette welded to the firewall. Unseen on the engine side, and strong enough to support the pedal, and booster. Used the old booster, and got a new master for about $40. Actually, now that I think of it, the Monte booster was too large, and would hit the valve cover, so I replaced it with one off a late 80's Camaro, very small diameter. Still used the Monte master, and prop. valve.
Chopolds hit it... if you're still planning on gutting a nova, then just cut that part of the firewall out, and use what they designed.. Jay
[ QUOTE ] I have the basic design figured out in my head, but I'd appreciate seeing any pictures of pedal****emblies y'all have built for your rides...to compare notes and such! (C9???) [/ QUOTE ] Haven't done one of these from scratch. If I did, I'd probably do what ChopOlds did and find a donor car at the junkyard. Seems some of the smaller cars may have what you want, booster and all. Although I wonder if a booster is required on most hot rod/customs. Depends on the weight and personal preferences I guess. Along with the reinforced firewall, I'd try to add a brace/strut for triangulation if you could. Make a point to pull the pedals off the pivots, strip em and hit them with a sanding belt to smooth the stamped out sharp edges. That oughta go a long way toward having the 'one-off' look. This probably won't help, but it's a cool example of what you can do at home. Pic shows the interior of Little Brothers 8 second Henry J. He made brake, clutch and throttle pedals - along with a whole lotta other stuff.
Planning on using a whole****embly from a79/80 chev blazer, it comes in 2 parts, inside and outside. I'll let you know how well it works..
I want an Ansen style hyd. clutch m/c combo like mentioned earlier. Could I just use the swinging pedal setup from the 60-66 GMC p/u (is that what the person above - sorry forget who - meant or were you just talking about the m/c), also it seems like I heard you could use a hyd. clutch m/c combo from maybe an IH and avoid some modification that needs to be made to the GMC check ball or something??
Dan, Speedway sells a chrome pedal****y & bracket for the 65/66 Chev/GMC daul m/c. I think it's $80. Ed Ed
HI-HACK- simplest thing in that case is to gut the original Master cylinder[it has a threaded cap on the line end] and pitch all that*****. then build a heay rod that will fit between the stock 49 pedal [going [[[[[[THROUGH]]]]]]]- the stock master cylinder.this in turn actuates a dual cylinder from an 81 full size LTD mounted off the rear edge of the trans crossmember. NO BOOSTER- not needed.....simple huh?This way you dont have some abortion on the firewall,interfering with column mount position and left side valve cover areas.....JUST AN OPINION..
If you're fabbin' totaly from scratch, make the arms strong enough to take some serious leverage, ya know. Like dude, how much can you leg press? huh? Prolly couple three hundred pounds I bet! Stock swing arms are made to take some big time torsional stresses, man. ya know? Paul
We just put a swing pedal from a 65 impala on a 54 Chev Sedan Delivery. The 7 inch booster and corvette mastercylinder came from Southtern Rod Parts. Pedal was free the booster and mastercylinder was $130.00 US
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