I am down to one last thing in my rebuild. My new Master Cylinder bore is deeper then my stock bore. How do you go about extending the brake pedal rod?
I think I may have the answer. How hard is it to remove the current master cylinder rod in a 54 Ford? http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SSB-A1726/?rtype=10
Take out one bolt,done deal! Before you hand over $54 + shipping to Summit check your local yellow pages for a Clutch & Brake supply they will usually have these in different lengths for $7-$10 just measure the difference that you will need.
That's a nice piece...but pricey. The stock rod won't come out of the Mustang master without a fight if it's been "snapped" into place. (Jeff may have better info on this - see the above post. If so, please be more specific, Jeff.) So, if you haven't already snapped it in, DON'T! Leave the little clippy thing out! Don't use it. This will allow you to ***emble and dis***emble the rod as often as you need to. My suggestion: Mock the master into place to find out exactly how much the rod needs to be extended (in the case of my '52, it needed to be shortened). Then (if you can't take it out) cut the stock rod...as far away from the master as is practical...make a short piece to extend it and weld it back together. Use wet rags to protect the master from the spread of the welding heat along the rod. Tack the rod together lightly at first, then re***emble and check the length to be sure you've got it exactly right. Note that the Ford uses an eccentric bolt to adjust pedal freeplay. Be sure to account for this when you figure the new rod length. To finish weld, use a MIG or TIG in a series of short tacks, allowing lots of cool down time between short welds. In the future do not use the little clip that snaps the master and the rod together. Just leave it out. That will allow you to take the rod in and out as often as you need to when adjusting the length and welding it solid. See my build thread for more info on this proceedure. 1952 Victoria Build-Up Part 1
I don't have any welding experience or access to a welder. Jeff what do you mean by one bolt? The rod looked like one piece to me. Thanks for all of your info. I am trying to get this done today for Hot August Nights. Our once a year big car show here.
When I change mine I need to extend it as well.... I ran threads on the cut rod and my extension rod and made a collar fitting with lock nuts on each side to dial in the exact length. Worked perfect!
The bolt that goes thru the eye of the pushrod that attaches it to the pedal.If you look at the picture of the Summit part the piece in the center is basicly a long nut and an xtra std size nut to lock it down with,you can get those at Ace Hardware,if you have a tap and die you could cut your rod,thread it, add the two pieces and voila! same thing for less than $5.
Geno and Jeff: that's a great idea! Thanks for the tip. I will put it into my memory bank for future reference. Simple, easy and adjustable! Great!
Wow I have to say that was the easiest thing I did on this project. I needed to get it done last night so I bought a kit at Summit for 30 that came with pretty much the same stuff in the SSB one. You take the bolt with the eye and thread on a lenght of rod that is all threads and then measure and cut. After doing that and finding one of the original metal brake lines was leaking after trying to bleed the system. I replaced that and got everything else ****oned up. I will take her on the road after work tonight to test out the new brake system. Thanks for all of your help.
This subject comes up over, and over, and over. Please take photos and list the part number of the kit you used. Might be a PITA to do at the moment, but others will thank you later on.
O sorry meant to add that I did take photos and will post them. I finished at midnight last night and didnt have time to get them off of the camera. I will also post the part number from summit. That is a great idea. The part number I used was "Summit Racing SUM-760125"
Here's a photo of the kit (SUM-760125) you used...from the Summit Racing website: It may seem clear to you how these parts were used to get to the end result you show, but not to others. Can you be more specific as to how you did it? Also, where did the new nylon bushing come from? It's often damaged or missing, so a specific source would be very helpful. Again, this question comes up over and over, especially from beginners, so a careful explaination would be very helpful. Thanks!
No problem the image summit gives is different then the parts I received. The threaded bolt threaded through large elongated nut into the eyelet. I then mounted the master cylinder to the car. I then put the rod ***embly I created into the master cylinder from inside the car to see how it matched up with the opening in the brake pedal. It measured about 1/2 inch too long. So I used a dremel and cut a 1/4 inch off first and remeasured. Once I was sure another 1/4 inch needed to come off I cut again. At this point it was long enough and could be adjust in and out with the eccentric bolt. I then used the supplied nut to tighten down and lock the length of the rod in place. It came with 2 nylon washers. I could only use one because of how it fit back together. I used the eccentric washer to make sure I had a 1/4 inch of brake pedal play per the shop manual and tightened everything down.
Okay, so the gold piece in the photo you took comes with the kit? The gold piece has threads on it to allow it to screw into the elongated nut? The length of the ***embly is then adjusted by turning the elongated nut (like a turnbuckle) and then locked into place with the lock nut? Do I have it right? Since the Summit Racing photo isn't right, is there any chance you could take a photo of the kit you used? Thanks for all the trouble.
I boogered a weld on the master cylinder end of mine and then ground it off a little to smooth it out. It looks like total ****.....but it is burried in the MC, so who cares. But then again, I am cheaper than cheap.....
Ok sorry for getting back so late on this. The parts I got came in a white box. I looked at the parts I had left over and realized that none of them matched what was in the kit above. I looked around some more and this is the kit that the parts come from SSB-A1726 minus the long bronze piece with the rounded end. I went back to Summit and asked them about this. Apparently in some return in the past the parts were either returned or stocked with the wrong part number minus the missing part. So here is the picture with the parts that I received.
Very good. A much simpler way of getting the job done. And, it's adjustable, which takes the worry out of being close. Summit Racing price is just under $54 in their online catalog. Not cheap, but I think that would be a very wise investment for a guy who can't weld... Thanks for the follow-up.
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