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Brake Problem - Help Please

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kermit, Sep 27, 2006.

  1. kermit
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 197

    kermit
    Member
    from WI

    I have a 1946 ford Tudor that has 'old school' looks but has been modified with modern safety in mind.

    The SBC/ 350 trans runs like a jewel but the car stops like shit. I have new rear wheel cylinders, new rear metallic shoes/drums, a new master and booster, check valves ec, new rotors, calipers and metallic pads. Yet the car does not stop quick enough.

    The master cylinder input shaft has been adjusted properly, and I bled the brakes until I am blue in the face. The pedal is soft, but gets better if you slowly pump the brakes. I have driven it carefully about 400 miles and the brakes do not allow any margin of error. Plan ahead is my motto.

    What am I missing guys?? I want to take it to the 'hunnert' but it has got to be better than this, that's a 3.5 hour ride for me.

    Kermit
     
  2. 53sled
    Joined: Jul 5, 2005
    Posts: 5,817

    53sled
    Member
    from KCMO

    what are the bore sizes of all the parts? what did they come from? you might have a mismatched system.
     
  3. MyOldBuick
    Joined: Jan 25, 2005
    Posts: 606

    MyOldBuick
    Member

    Hmm -- I'm assuming this is all new fluid . . . it still sounds like an air problem in the system. Mine was doing that . . . pedal was soft, I could pump it multiple times and it would firm up, I went back and re-bled things and finally got firm pedal. I even changed my rod-pedal ratio back to the stock (6:1 vs. 5:1) . . . I had drilled a new position in the thing. I'd check for a leak or bad bleeder somewhere . . . somethings not right somwhere. (Duh . . LOL)
     
  4. CHRIS 57
    Joined: Jun 10, 2005
    Posts: 187

    CHRIS 57
    Member
    from Upstate NY

    Is it DOT5 fluid? Doesn't eat paint, but it naturally has air in it.
     
  5. flathead okie
    Joined: May 22, 2005
    Posts: 1,480

    flathead okie
    Member

    I've had new master and booster turn out no good.
     
  6. You did bench bleed the master before installing it right? Could be a bad m/c even though it is new. Not the first time that would have happened.

    Bill
     
  7. kermit
    Joined: Feb 26, 2006
    Posts: 197

    kermit
    Member
    from WI

    Ding Ding...the free cigar goes to Myoldbuick. A bad bleeder. We now have brakes and we will be scootin to the pileup.

    Thanks to all HAMBers who replied and made me think/check further.

    Kermit:D
     

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