My 16 year old nephew has been nagging me to get my '52 Chevy 1/2 ton back on the road since he was about 12. Well the kid isn't taking "someday soon" for an answer...he wants us to drive it together to this years Hunnert Car Pileup and has been showing up at my house and lighting a fire under me to work on it. We have a built 235 that we've decided will be our winter project so we got the 216 running and tuned it and flushed the cooling system and pretty much have the engine good to go. Anyway...as we have been doing all this we found that the trucks brakes don't work...the pedal goes to the floor with no resistence or pressure at all...we figured that the fluid must have evaporated down to a very low level and the the brakes just needed a good bleeding and flushing with all new fluid. We filled the master cylinder with fluid and it won't pump up...nothing...nada...and it isn't moving any fluid out. I've orderd a rebuild kit for the master cylinder and hope that will do the trick...but I'm no expert here and I'd appreciate any thoughts or advice that might get this fixed. The brakes are fairly new (shoes, drums turned, wheel cylinders rebuilt or replaced as necessary...) They were done not too long before I put the truck up...It's been sitting about 5 years...also, when I opened the master it was empty but no sign of rust inside. Thanks in advance for any and all help.
do the rebuild kit on the master and check out ur wheel cylinders for leaks.....pretty simple brake set up if theres no leaks jus adjust the brakes and ur cool
Also check ALL fo the steel pipes. If they have not been replaced they are nearing 60 years old and are in the dangerous area. They rust from the inside out and I woud really consider replacing the whole set. Try Classic Tube for pre-bent kits. They are not too expensive and may save someones life. All new flex hoses are also in order. It is a sad state affairs, but if one of the lines fails that it was not replaced some lawyer can clean you out right fast. ALL new at least show you were not negligent in the repairs and were doing the best to make it safe.
Ya its worth the piece of mind too just go through the brakes again completely including the e-brake adjustment. Better to find out now then later when you really need em. But it does sound like the master went south to me.
Master has to be bench bled,either with the discharge routed back to the pot or plugged with a matching flared plug -- only a one inch stroke - do not bottom it out Bleed lines starting the furthest away Hopefully it's a split circuit You should also pull all the drums and peel back the boots on the whl/cyl's to check for leakage or powdered corrosion - they stick from inactivity
x2 on the master being DOA But really, brakes are cheap, and 5 years is a long time to sit. I'd replace anything with rubber in the brake system. You know your master is shot, why wouldn't the rest be soon to follow? You can piecemeal it out fixing it one by one or just do it all and be done with it and save the headaches. Kanters might have a complete kit?
Thanks to all who have replied. My nephew and I have decided that the best course of action would definately be to replace the lines and hoses and make sure the hydraulics are in top condition. In addition to the master cylinder, we ordered rebuild kits for the wheel cylinders and if any of them show signs of leakage or corrosion we will rebuild or ultimately replace. We're not anticipating any shoe or drum surface problems, but after we disassemble everything, if anything needs attention it will get it. I'm lucky to have an independent auto parts store in my neighborhood who specializes in antique parts...and...of course there is always mail order. Thanks again, guys.
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