Technical Brake tubing close bend

I am replacing the 1/4” brake tubing on a mechanically original 1936 Fiat Topolino, the master cylinder is in a location where the tubing near the fittings need to have tight bends. I have an assortment of tubing benders but none of them allow me to make a 90 degree bend tight to the fitting. Has anyone had any experience with this tool? https://www.eastwood.com/ew-brake-forming-tool.html Some of the reviews claim that this tool deforms the tubing.
Or do you recommend another tool that would make the type of bend I need?
Here are the tools I have and an example of the closest bend I am currently able to make, I need to make the 90 tight to the hex on the fitting.
Thanks!

 

https://imperial-tools.com/products/162-f-micro-tube-bender/

 

I happen to be in my shop right now, so here is the scale:


Also shown is the part number.

I think I got this on Amazon.

 

The inner diameter is all of about an inch, an it can be used right against the tube nut.

 

I have a similar tool like you posted from Eastwood that I got from Mac tools years ago. works great for what you want. It provides the tightest bends of any other tool I have found, at one-point years ago I made a jig with 3/8s dowels about a 1/4 inch apart that I would insert the line and then massaged the tubing around it. But it was a slow tedious process and could kink if you weren't careful. The pliers work much better. Larry

 

Gravel guard can be used for a mandrel, too.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1634005750...hevOqQ9Txm&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

 

I have that tool. It will bend 3/16 steel tube ok, but wants to kink on 1/4 steel tube. Might work on the softer copper colored tube though.

Bill

 

I have used that Eastwood tool you show, but only for 3/16 tubing. It works very well for a tight bend right at the line nut.

 

HF has a pliers that will bend as good as your wrists are. Or you can build something.

 

I've used those pliers you listed and you can get a pretty tight bend on them, atleast better than the pic you posted. I would guess atleast a 1/4" less.

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I have the 1/8"-3/16"-1/4" version of the Imperial Eastman bender and I don't see anything with a tighter bend. Can you get away with a 90 degree fitting?

 

I recently had the same problem and someone on here suggested using a banjo fitting. The banjo fitting worked well and made a much nearer solution.

 

Thank you for the multiple responses and suggestions.
I really need the 90 to start at the hex on the fitting, there is a clearance issue with a longer 90. The fitting on the master cylinder has ports with in inverted flare so I must use a nut with a double flare tube, a banjo fitting will not work.
I have not given a thought to making a tool but “seb fontana” posted a photo of a tool that might do the job. I might turn up a round mandrel on the lathe then cut it in half and make a tool. I suppose that if nothing else I could drill out the inverted flare in the fitting on the master cylinder then tap them to NPT, then install a 90 degree NPT to 1/4” invert d flare fitting. I forgot to mention I am using NiCopp tubing.

 

Been using a few benders for years most where pretty similar. However this week @ SEMA show I played with one that allowed super tight bends and was super cool. Company is called Brake Quip. I'm super impressed and they sell nickel copper tube to boot. I'm about to order the tools and some tubing once I figure out exactly what tubing I need to a couple projects this winter.

https://brakequip.com

 

https://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/tubing-benders

Saw these demonstrated at York. They looked like they worked real good and definitely bend right up to the nut.

 

I have and used the Eastwood. It works best held right against the nut.

 

I have made my own that start right up next to the nut. Its a must for Hydraulic brakes on a model A rear end.

 

Tool on the right is the same as the middle one in your picture. Cut a notch out as shown. Didn't last very long when done on the red plastic tool.

 

The Imperial Bender on the right will give you the smallest bend. I saw on another thread where a guy modified his Imperial bender to allow the fitting to be closer to where the bend starts rather than against the little vertical arm sticking up. Can't find the picture of how he did it though.
If you set the fitting with its wrench head on the opposite side of the arm, you may be able to put another fitting onto the threads to push against the vertical arm. Might have to do a little clearancing on the Imperial.
Anyway, the idea is to get the hex part of your fitting closer to where the bend will start.

 

All I know is the cheapo HF don’t like stainless tubing. I loaned one I had always used on steel and copper to a one time co-worker who broke one of mine on stainless. Didn’t replace it and was no longer a friend.

 

Maybe it is out of line to suggest nickle/copper line?
Changing the material instead of changing the tool?

The bend I think could be as simple as putting a bolt in your vice then by hand forming the line around the bolt.

While it is not original brake line, I think the copper "looking line" is pretty cool.
They actually did use copper lines back in 1915-1920's for oiling & such as they still had mechanical brakes.
I just feel the modern nicop lines should be accepted .... pictures himself polishing his copper brake lines for the next coffee/cars meet

 

I’ve run a piece of wire inside to keep tube from kinking. I think it was plastic coated cable for clothes line

 

smart!!!

 

And with this......^^^^^ It take's 3/4 of an inch of tube to make a true 90* bend. Measure carefully!

 

That reminds me of several years ago wanting to build a convertible canvas top for a ot jeep.
You could use 3/4" electrical conduit & fill it with sand. Then you could bend the tubing without it kinking. .... The tube was filled with sand & no room to kink or collapse when bent to a 90 degree angle.

I probably would not want sand in my brake lines. though it could be cleaned out. .... Is a well known way to bend tubing.

 

Again- Thanks to all who offered advice and ideas.
Using some of the suggestions I fabricated a tool to make the bends.
I turned up a round die on my lathe with the profile of the tube milld out of the center, notched a corner out of it and mounted it to a piece of 1/2” mild steel plate using a 1/2” fine thread bolt. I tapped another piece of mild steel to match the threads on the flare nut and welded it to the 1/2” plate. By screwing the flare nut into the tapped hole it secures the nut and prevents damage. The attached pictures show the tool with the tubing before and after it is bent, and the tube ready to install. The bend is tighter than I could have made with my other tools. Success!


It is difficult to see in this photo but under the head of the bolt is what looks like a small pulley that I made on the lathe, a corner is cut so fits tight to the flare nut.

 

This thread belongs in the 'Tips for home builders" or whatever it's called. Great ideas and info here!

 

beautifully done!

 

Oh man I can't wait to go down to the garage and make a pair of those benders... Thanks!!