Brakes: I have a problem- Help needed

I have a T roadster with '40's Ford front drums.
After I got it running and started to take it out on short excursions, I noticed that the front brakes were hanging up (not releasing). They would get real hot and then lock up after sitting after a run. I thought it might be the residual pressure valve gone wrong, so I removed it and replaced it with a straight steel line.
No fix, same problem.
I originally adjusted the shoes so that there was just a little drag on them at rest. Now I have to crack open the bleeder valve to get the car rolling again.
I am using a master cylinder from an '80's Jeep that was bought new from a local parts house. The wheel cylinders are also new.
The shoe adjustment is the bolt and cam type that has been turned all the way 'loose' to no avail.
This is really putting a damper on finishing this build.
Any help would be appreciated.
This is the car in question.
r

 

is there some free play at the pedal? if the m/c is not able to fully release then pressure will build up.

 

No free play at the pedal. The rod is adjusted so there is none, which makes the pedal kinda high.
r

 

After re-reading your post (and mine) I see what youa re saying, I think.
Should there be some free-play at the pedal?
If so, how much?
r

 

just a little bit, to make sure the m/c piston returns fully. 1/8" at the pedal should be enough.

 

I'll make that change tonight and see what happens.
Thanks,
r

 

If you didn't replace the flex brake lines, that is probably your trouble. Full of crude and corruption and allowing the fluid to go out, but not return. Cheap insurance and test, replace the flex lines and if the front are bad, surely the back will be soon.

 

Don't forget a brake pedal return spring to keep the weight of the pedal off of the M/cyl piston. sometimes that is enough to give the same symptoms.

 

hotrod1940: It's all new stuff (new build).
tommy: The fact is, I don't have a return spring. I'll get on that too.
Thanks.
r