Ok so I have the hard lines unhooked where the rubber hoses go and put fluid in the master cylinder it won't push any fluid out the end even with the line unhooked. Any ideas?
Is this a new brake system or in an existing car. When I first put fluid in my lines, it took forever to get it from the master cylinder thru the lines.
Step one: bleed master cylinder. Search bench bleed. Although it can be done mounted on the car not necessary to have a bench. Step two: let system gravity bleed for at least 1 HOUR or until fluid starts leaking all over the floor. No fluid, check master cylinder, if it was pumped dry it may be fouled
It is an old system. K I just went through and put new cylinders on and new hoses. Since I found sludge like stuff in the cylinders I wanted to clean out the lines before I hooked up the hoses. With all three hoses unhooked I was trying to put fluid in the master cylinder and pump some through the metal lines to clean them out. It does nothing. I unhook the one line coming out of it and nothing comes out. It is on my galaxie
Air will go through all lines and if I pit the air on at one of the wheels it bubbles in the master. All of the fluid is still in the master. None went anywhere
if you had sludge in the wheel cylinders it's probably in the master as well. sounds like the master needs rebuild/replace as well. might have a ridge/pits***** in it and it's killed the seals inside.
Is there another booster/master cylinder****embly that works great from another car of something? Thinking of just swapping the whole thing.
The system off of another Galaxie will fit. If the system was working before you opened it up, then the problem is something that you did or did not due. Go back to square one. Blow out the lines with low pressure air if you are worried about sludge. Then, bleed the master cylinder. Next, have a helper depress the brake pedal then open the wheel bleeder farthest from the master. This may take several trys til you get fluid to the cylinder. Repeat for the remaining cylinders, working closer to the master. You may have to go back thru the system another time. This should solve your problem. Next alternative is a strong rope and a big anchor. lol
To be honest you'd be better off getting a new master cyl. they are not all that expensive. my view is when it comes to your breaks don't F around with old nasty stuff. (learned the hard way) your booster may be back bleeding. or fluid going into it. try (performance online.com) they are fair prices or (rockauto.com) they ship pretty quick good prices. hope this helps any other ? just ask mark
Another thing when bleeding yours breaks take a pair of small clamps start at the front hoses clamp them off then go to the right rear wheel cyl. try to pump,hold then crack the bleeder open and repeat. then left side once there is fluid present move to the right front (remove the clamp) do the same process then move to the left front (remove clamp) and repeat. the purpose of the clamps is to force extra force if you will to that wheel you may have to repeat this procedure several times . you can bleed your master on the car first have a helper pump the pedal several times hold pedal then crack the line loose at master rear first,then repeat till fluid is coming out easily then move to the front line.
I think on your Galaxie you will find you need to send your booster in as new or rebuilts are not available.After going through this twice,finally switches to manual,dual chamber master! ROY.
Da^^n the usual********* no help answers fro^^ half the bunch. Ok, lesson 1. on bleeding brakes. they will not bleed right if you pu^^p the brakes with the syste^^ open. You can usually get away with putting a bottle with enough brake fluid in it over the end of the hose/line you are trying to bleed and then pu^^ping the brakes very slowly. that is with all the other lines closed off. Don't pinch the hoses as you stand a high chance of da^^aging the^^. I never heard of "gravity" bleeding before I got on this board and I did brakes daily for a living for years. It is a^^ature ^^ethod as far as I a^^ concerned and a total waste of ti^^e. You can pick up a vacu^^e pu^^p bleader at Sears, hf or Autozone for a reasonable price that lets you***** the air and brake fluid out of the lines pretty easily by your self. You can even build a pressure bleeder out of a 10.00 garden sprayer. http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm That saves having to have a helper pu^^p the brakes. Still it goes back to the si^^ple fact that you will never get the brakes to pu^^p up with the syste^^ open on all four corners. The syste^^ has to be closed to build pressure. ^^ost of the crud will flush out with the new fluid when you bleed the cylinders. You will see the color of the fluid change when it does. Put the syste^^ back together Fill the ^^aster cylinder and have your helper (you do have one) pu^^p slowly and then hold the pedal down while you open the furthest bleeder. When you get a solid strea^^ of fluid go to the next one. If you don't want a ^^ess on the floor take a piece of clear plastic hose the right size and run it down into a bottle to catch the fluid. So^^e ti^^es you have to go around two or three ti^^s to get all the air out. And before you start ^^ake sure that all of the brakes are adjusted up right as that helps get things working right to get a solid pedal feel.
Going to hook up the hoses tomorrow and start bleeding the brakes and find out if the master cylinder is any good. I hope it is until I can afford a new dual cylinder. Thinking of running a Chrysler one.
Good luck with the master cleanup. You might see if you can borrow a vacuum or a pressure bleeder setup to be able to bleed the system out, as from what you've described, it's dry now. Either way, vacuum or pressure, you can get the system filled much quicker that way. You may have to do a final bleed to get the last bit of air out, pedal feel will let you know. Best of luck with it, I hope you can get whatever new master cylinder you decide on, and soon.
If you have brake fluid in your booster, the MC is leaking. REPLACE it. And fluid in the booster will kill the rubber diaphram and make the booster*****. If you cant afford to do it right, PARK IT TILL YOU CAN. Dont risk you or the car on junk brakes.
will some later model car brake boosters bolt in and straight to the firewall? thinking of swapping to a newer smaller diameter one. but not to sure what it will take to hook it to the pedal
how did you find the fluid? did you pull the booster?, it could be just condensation. In one of your previous threads looking for help you stated..."I had a few hours to burn today so I went the the local junk yard mainly to find some parts for my car. I've spent alot of time the past few years wondering around there and always find something new. I was looking for parts for my car and I found almost 20 63-64 galaxies." Hotrodding is a great pastime and swapping parts from other brands to give better performance is what its about ...BUT.. I'm sorry to say that people with no mechanical knowledge of a braking system should not be f#$king around with the most important bits on their car! Find a friend that knows how to bleed brakes and get down to your local yard or Autozone.
I just ordered a new mc and it will be here tomorrow. 15 bucks to be safer. I have no problem with brakes, my last car every line was new. I just usually don't mess with old stuff. Usually just replace everything as I have basically done.
OK, so make sure you bench bleed it before fitment, hook up all the lines to calipers/drums. Open the back ones first one at a time and bleed slowly. keep the reservoir full at all time.
Well since of all the snow we got, the mc didn't show up. What is the difference between a single or duel diaphragm booster? And the size.
Ok so I got the new mc and it came with a plastic cap and it doesn't se to matter how much I tighten it up, it leaks. I put the*****py original cap on and it stopped. Will it eventually seal up or always leak?
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