1952-59 Ford Break in oil on fresh built engine

Hey guys... I know we have talked about this before, but I just don't remember stuff like I used to.... don't remember what was for lunch.... probably slept through it anyway.

What is the best break in oil to use on a fresh built engine? What filter to use and what to use after break in? Looking for some opinions... I do remember that several of you really don't like Fram filters (sad I remember that and that's all).... Give some opinions.....

Thanks guys

 

I've always been an OEM person so my Fords have Motorcraft filters.

My second choice and I use 'em on my Tundra - Wix. Next best IMO is Baldwin but like the OEM/Toyota filters - they're a bit pricey.

I tend to shy away from Fram & Purolator, a habit I picked up many years ago while working in the Ford garage where we carried only 2 brands - M/C and Baldwin (preferred by many truckers)

 

I don't think it makes a whole lot of difference what oil you use, Geno, as long as it's a quality brand.

I think I'd choose a brand name 10-30 and a WIX filter and drive the car only 30 to 50 miles before changing the oil the first time.

Then I'd drive it about 100 miles between the next four oil changes. You'd have about 500 miles on it then, and break-in would be well underway.

I'd go another 500 miles, then 1000 and then 2000 using the same routine to finish the break in.

I'd then change oil every 2500-3000 miles or so, probably using a synthetic like Mobil 1. I'd stick with WIX filters. Everybody seems to consider them a top choice.

Just an opinion, but I think that flushing a new engine with frequent oil/filter changes during the first few hundred miles of operation is cheap insurance.

$.02...

 

Wally World has Motorcraft filters they also have Motorcraft Diesel 15W40 oil which has about 300ppm ZDDP more than the new version of Rotella so it would be great for break-in and as a regular oil in a flat tappet engine.

 

what motor? I know with my 55 ford you are suppose to use an additive to it..I believe a lucas brand...kinda like a thickener because the new oil has something missing from it to help protect the motor. Tore my cam up because they did not put the right ***embly lube on it which the additive helped.

 

hotroddin56,check my post above, the additive that was taken out of the newer oils is ZDDP, the oil I recommended has about the highest amount available the diesel oils have a higher content.If you replace the cam, over the years I have always used ISKY cam lube for break-in (available thru Summit) and never a failure along with the diesel oil.

 

Yes, I was also told that if you've got a Yblock or other engine with solid tappets the diesel oil still has the additives in it for valve train/cam lubrication. Shell Rotella or Motorcraft 15W40 oil for diesels is what I'll use in my 292.

 

I think Geno's talking about a new crate motor - a Chevy - which would have a roller cam. ZDDP is for flat tappet motors, mostly, so really isn't necessary in a modern engine.

What is necessary when breaking in a new engine is to create conditions whereby all the new parts get to know each other in a friendly way, and that the "rough edges" that are knocked off during this process are flushed away in an efficient manner.

Once the parts are all friendly and the trash has been hauled out, the motor should live a long and happy life...***uming it was ***embled properly in the first place and that the owner doesn't get lazy about maintenance as the years go by.

There are a number of threads on the main board on oil for older engines. Do a search on "ZDDP" and you'll get more info than you can absorb in one day, including specific products which contain it.

Be aware, however, that things change, including the amount of ZDDP in any given product. So, check the date of the post before taking the information it contains as gospel truth.

Oil for diesel trucks was rich in ZDDP until recently, when the formula regulations were updated by the gov'ment to comply with the new over-the-road diesel truck engine equipment / smog requirements. These diesel-specific oils still contain some ZDDP, but the amount is greatly reduced when compared to earlier formulations.

You'll also find that opinions on oil vary widely...but the many posts on the subject do provide for entertaining reading!

 

I use Rotella in my race engines with a Wix filter...then add one Comp Cams oil additive. This is break in AND every time I change the oil. I have never had a new cam go flat...or had any other lubrication-related failure...up to 8500 rpm p*** after p***. I know that most all my race buddies do the same...it just works. Good luck.........Zilla.