Let me start by stating that I’m not seeking advice on how to break in a new motor. I’m satisfied with the procedure I used and I’m past that point anyway. I am however looking for advice on when a person can feel satisfied the new motor is properly broken in as well the signs of trouble they look for with new motors. Built a 340 and broke it in following all cam recommendations. Used Driven BR30 oil per cam manufacturer. Changed the oil after 100 miles and again at 500. The oil was nice and clean both times with zero metal particulate. At 500 miles, I decided to cut open the filter (Wix) to peek inside. I did find some very fine metal particles inside but nothing I could see on the filter material itself. The residual oil inside however contained the very fine particles. Not spoonfuls or anything like that. I expected to find some since it’s a new motor, new rings, etc. but I’m not sure what is normal with a new motor. I know many detail oriented builders inspect filters like this after a break in so my question is what is an acceptable amount of metal particulate? I only noticed it because I could feel the graininess of the particles with a gloved finger. I’ve never taken the effort to cut open a filter like this so I don’t have anything to compare it with. Aside from what I find inside the filter, there are no indications of trouble. Motor runs fantastic, makes no unusual noises and so far at 500 miles, zero lifter ticks that might indicate a failing cam lobe.
...was the block cleaned properly....all oil galleries...etc...could just be what was left over prior to the build....
It was cleaned but you’re right, possibly left over material. Never really get it perfect. I am thinking maybe the only way to be fully satisfied is to drive it another 500 miles and cut the filter open again.
I don't look at the oil I drain from my fresh builds, it's too scary. I just keep driving them...they seem to work, most of the time
A friend bought a new C8 Vette, it had a 500 mile rev and torque limiter. Once it hit 500 miles the "orange line" on the tack went form 3500 to 5500, the red line went to 7000 and the trans released over 30% more torque it had been holding back in 1st and 2nd gears...or some such nonsense. So if 500 miles is good for GM's supercar, It is likely fine for us as well.
I used a cut off wheel. Tried to keep from going deep and introducing contaminants but you’re right. Some of what I’m seeing may very well be that. That would explain why I wasn’t finding it inside the folds of the paper filter. What’s the better way for next time? Tin snips?
Reread post #4 above,,,,,Jim is pretty sharp,,,,,and he’s right on the money ! There’s always a little crap that goes through a new build ,,,,sometimes a little casting sand from the original pour . Hot tanking or baking can jar anything loose inside . Sometimes even new components have slight particulates in them . I take every new oil pump apart and investigate for particles,,,,,yes,,,I’ve found stuff in them before . Try not to worry too much about it ,,,,,I think people have gotten the jitters on building engines . If the professionals have to cut open new oil filters for an oil particulate analysis,,,,maybe ,,,they aren’t too professional ? If you did it right,,,,it’s okay,,,,,and if you didn’t,,,,you’ll know soon enough . Don’t lay awake at night and worry,,,it’s fine,,,if you got 500 miles already,,,you’re good . Tommy
Wait a minute Billy,,,,,you mean the engine can actually rev to 7000 ! Lol,,,,,what is the factory thinking ? Just a Walk in the park these days ! Tommy
Maybe after dong your first full-term oil change you could send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis. https://www.blackstone-labs.com/tests/standard-analysis/ I believe they'll be able to detect specfic metallic content (iron, brass, copper, aluminum) and if it's above normal levels.
If you’ve done that many miles you’re fine. In almost 30 years of building race engines I’ve never cut open a filter. There’s usually something scary stuck to the magnetic drain plug but if it’s not making a nasty noise I just get on with it.
Back when dad and I were drag racing every weekend, I would make a couple easy 1/4 mile runs then let it go on the third run, that was our break in. On street cars, most never made it to 500 miles before opening them up. We never cut a filter apart, money was tight and even if it had something in the filter, it was still going to get run. Here lately on all the motors I build, I put a very strong magnet on the bottom of filter and one on the bottom of the oil pan right near the drain plug. Pull the magnet from the pan at oil change to flush out cylinder material and all the camshaft additives.
A certain amount of metal in the filter is to be expected on a fresh engine. I got used to cutting oil filters open while working on aircraft, as it's pretty much standard on those things, and it can catch problems before anything catastrophic happens. I bought a filter cutter and open the filters on all my vehicles. On the engine in question, I'd just drive it and then check the filter at the next oil change. You'll likely see less crap in the filter...
My last one, I didn't cut open the filter. I changed the oil and filter after the cam break-in, saw nothing funny in the oil that came out. Went another 500, rinse-repeat. I did have a valve cover off it after the cam break-in, I did see lint from the Scott industrial paper towels I used during the assembly. Sometimes there will be scant evidence of metals suspended in the oil that puddles on the head surfaces.
The last 2 engines I've used Oberg oil filters on. They come apart for cleaning and inspection. I've seen metal in both from new engines, but nothing large on the screen. And nothing on the output side. Their bypass is set well above the pressures most oil pumps supply, so no dirty oil getting past the filter. The only down side of the filter is you have to pay attention to the screen and the direction of flow thru it. You might not get it perfectly clean, and if you reinstall it backwards, swarf will be pumped thru your engine.
I usually start feeling good about engines at the 100,000 mile mark. By then your sure you got all the bugs out.
After 500 miles it's as broken in as it's gonna get . Visual bearing inspection, pull a couple lifters & look at the bases if you're looking for problems . Keep in mind , at this point if it's roached , the damage is done , especially the lifters & cam .
Some good thoughts above. I'd worry about your cut-off wheel debris, use tin snips or a nibbler...residue is likely from an incomplete cleaning which is very common. Use magnets on bottom of filter and pan near drain plug.
I bought an O/T Ford Station Wagon from a friends dad, for $50, for the engine. He said it had over 200,000 miles on it and ran great. He drove the family in it, right up till I bought it. This was back when service stations checked your oil. When I pulled the engine, it had the factory filter still on it. Years later I called him on it. He got offended and said he changed the oil every time he filled up with gas. How can you argue with that logic?
Back in the day I heard all kinds of different break in techniques. Run it hard, run it easy, use non-detergent straight weight oil for break in, add Rislone, STP, or one of many other additives. I tended to take it easy on a new engine for the first 500 miles or so and change the oil and filter after the first 100 miles. Then in my mid 20's I bought a sprint car. My driver liked to get on the track early and run the engine easy to try to get everything up to temperature. When the green flag dropped on hot laps it was throttle on and run her hard. Never had a problem with this procedure. Now we did change the oil and filter regularly. We probably ran 35 - 40 races a year and I changed the oil and filter about half way through the season.
Guy I knew built em, stabbed em in the car, did a burn out and hammered em on the track. If I’d didn’t break it was broken in
Dad used to go down to FairFax GM assembly plant and watch the drivers do burnout coming out of the factory doors. I believe that was the break-in most cars had back when they had power.
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