Bringing an F100 Back from the Dead

Thanks for the suggestion guys. I'll check with the local glass shop.
WFO, yes, I have the fans running through a relay for each on, and the Sniper trigger is the ground. It'll be an easy matter to rig up a bypass switch. Last night I set 'em to come on below t-stat opening so I could test 'em today. Once I can confirm they are working correctly, I'll set 'em for just above the t-stat.

The fuel lines....I have both feed and return hard lines under truck mounted to a bracket bolted to the floor at about the point it turns up into the firewall. The motor has hard lines from the throttle body that go down the side of the motor. Those two sets of hard lines are connected with flex hose. It seems the noise is at its peak where the floor bracket is, even though sound mat is in there.

I'm not gonna argue with it. I've tried arguing with the drag race car, and not ever have I won a single one of those arguments Not ever!

 

I know it would take some work but could you relocate the line bulkheads to the seam on the firewall where the foot box and firewall meet? That seam is very rigid. Maybe it would take care of any "bad vibes".

 

WFO, you can see where the clutch master is mounted to the frame rail below the floor. Right behind that is the fuel filter. I'm think of making up a new pair of flex lines to run there. That would eliminate the resonance I would think. I can re-use the fittings, and just get a length of the PTFE hose.

 

^^^^^^
Sounds like a good plan. Surely being away from sheet metal will stop it.

 

Fan issue seems to be resolved. But I'm still gonna put a manual bypass switch in later.
And, I unbolted the fuel line bracket on the floor, and shoved a chunk of foam rubber in between the bracket and the body, leaving it unbolted. Fired 'er up........silence! Now I know for certain.
The window will have to wait. Vacay time coming up!

 

A friend bolted a Holley Blue pump directly to the frame of his '47 pickup. It was so loud his wife refused to ride in the truck.

 

I've experience the same. Back in the day, I mounted a Holley blue to the frame rail on my '70 Challenger. The car was loud anyway, but that pump....dang! I hung it off a muffler hanger and it was quiet. Totally isolated the metal to metal contact.
Anyway, 10 feet of -6 PTFE braided hose will be here tomorrow. Each one of the hoses from the fuel filter forward to the motor's fuel lines will be four feet.
Anyway, this is a new experience for me. I never figured fuel lines would resonate that bad.

 

Well, now that I've driven it a bit and identified some stuff that needs to be fixed, she'll be coming partially apart again. Most of my "Vintage Air" system has arrived, and that looks like a pretty involved job.
Then there's the fuel lines to re-do, as well as finish up the power window install once I get the glass for the driver side door. I have standard GM 70s era switches for that, which I do not have a wiring schematic for, so that will have to be figured out.
I also have to change the drive gear for the speedometer. When it reads 40mph, it's really closer to 50.
All this, plus wifey and I will be road trippin' soon. It might be a few minutes before I get to all of that stuff!

 

We just got back from a road trip, nearly circumnavigating the US. Out I-40 from California (including old route 66 stops) to the east coast, up I-95 to Gloucester, and returning via I-90, then I-15 and I-80 with many stops along the way, including a stop at Bonneville to walk out onto the salt. Four weeks, 7815 miles, and a little less than 400 gallons of fuel.....but not in the '65. This was a "Bucket List" trip wed been planning for a long time.
So, now back to work on the ol' Furd.
As previously mentioned, now that I've driven it around for a bit, it'll go back up on stands to install AC, the driver side window plus getting the electric regulators done, along with a lengthy list of small problems and refinements identified during the initial drive.
Updates to come shortly!

 

Power window switch info:
https://www.hotrodders.com/threads/pin-hookup-on-gm-power-window-switch.389625/

Here are a bunch of wiring diagrams:
https://www.nu-relics.com/Articles.asp?ID=254

 

So I'm well into the Vintage Air AC install. Going slow and easy. I have to express how pleased I am with this kit thus far. Very well engineered and thought out. In fact, it solved a few problems and future fixes that aren't directly related to an AC system. For example, the glove box. Not only did I have to get a new box, but the door springs, which hold the door closed, were FUBAR. This kit came with a glove box and latch, and actually does away with the springs, using the latch instead.
Also, the big hole in the passenger side kick panel is covered with a plate that the AC hoses go through. I was also thinking that I would either have to choose between power steering and AC because the AC compressor and power steering pump reside in the same space. Well, the AC compressor bracket has a provision for mounting a PS pump!
It is an expensive kit, yes. But it seems they have thought of everything. Even the hood latch lever. It comes with a replacement lever to allow clearance for the condenser. A less expensive kit, I think, would make one come up with solutions on their own.
Still, it's a big job. Very intimidating at first glance. But the install is broken up into sections. Going step by step, it all gets done. At this point, I'm into the wiring. I had to put the evaporator unit in place to figure out where everything would live. I deviated from the instruction somewhat by removing the right front fender. The drier is tucked in there, and some holes had to be drilled for hoses, wiring, etc. At my age and overall lack of flexibility, it just made it easier.
Its a tight fit, but so far, everything fits perfectly.A welcome thing considering how much stuff is out in the world that doesn't fit as promised.

 

Flexible and old age should not be. used in the same sentence. Been there and done that. Frank

 

I'm a V.A. fan. There stuff is better than I am as an installer.

 

I'm closing in on finishing up the Vintage Air AC install. It didn't take as long as I figured. While it did seem rather overwhelming at first (there is a BUNCH of parts, pieces and procedures), just taking it step by step and it all got done. I didn't get it direct from VA. Their lead time was way out there. They suggested Affordable Street Rods. I dealt with a feller named Travis, and I gotta say, that outfit is an absolute pleasure to deal with! Not many places one can say about that is this day and age.
Anyway, I still have the compressor hoses, and wire up the "trinary safety switch." This turns the electric fans on when the system pressure reaches a certain point. I'm just waiting on a 4 pin Deutch connector. The connector is under the front fender and subject to water splash. I also need to re-install the glove box door, which needs to be retro-fitted with a latch. Easy stuff.
Then it's off to find somewhere to charge the system and we're done! I'm thinkin' of leaving the front fender off for this, so any leaks can be easily found. The dryer is under there and would be a royal pain to get to with the fender on.
Next up on the "To-Do" list is swap the speedo cable gear, and make up some new flex lines in the fuel system. My door glass is finally arriving today, so I can finish the power window set-up.
While the dash was all apart, I was gonna get a two-speed wiper motor kit. Wouldn't ya know it. I shoulda bought "back when." Now it's out of stock everywhere.

 

Back in 07, I was building a 32 Ford pickup. I had the ac conversation with 2 different companies about installation. They both recommended doing during the build, not after. No argument from me. Did you order the switches with the window regulators? I have been doing that and found it to be cheaper than buying switches separately. After a month off, you should be full of energy.

 

Vintage Air AC system install....DONE! Except for charging the system. I found out that O'Reilly's has a tool loaner program, so I don't have to buy the gauge set and vacuum pump. Just put down a deposit, then return the stuff within 48 hours, and get your entire deposit back.
I did have to buy a hose crimper. The most inexpensive one on Amazon was pretty much like the one Vintage Air outlined in the fact sheet. Two jaws on a beefy C-clamp like thing. Looking at the way it worked, I figured from the outset that it would be best to crimp about halfway, loosen the clamp and turn the fitting 90°. Worked like a champ!
All in, it took a little less than two weeks for the entire install, workin on it slow and methodically, a couple hours a day.
While I had the truck up on jacks, I re-routed the fuel lines to eliminated the pressure regulator buzz. If you read back a few posts, I had hard lines mounted solid to the firewall. The firewall acted as a big sounding board, amplifying the buzz. I also swapped out the speedo drive gear so the speedo would read closer to actual speed.
Door glass for the driver side window showed up last week, so I formed the channel, and got the window slid in. So, the next project will finally be the wiring and set-up on the power window units.
That should be big, big fun. (insert note of sarcasm there).
Soon, it will be time to finally turn toward cosmetics. One aspect of that is necessary. I need to paint the roof before installing the back glass. I want uninterrupted paint around the window channel before putting the window back in. That requires digging out the old drip rail sealer. THAT should be fun too!

 

After doing the AC install you'll find that the power window wiring is relatively trivial. One suggestion, if you are not using the electrical contact bumpers for the door connection, is to make the outlet hole in the pillar offset from the inlet hole in the door by a few inches if you are hard wiring it. It will put less strain on the wiring when opening the door.

 

Good tip Frenchtown!
I saw these on Nu Relic's site. Maybe this would be a good way to go....

 

The AC install was nearly like doing it during the build. Hardly anything had to be disassembled. The stock heater assembly never put back in, I had switch power wires looped and tied up in the area. None of the factory heater controls were installed. So overall, relatively clean and easy. Everything went as the instructions had outlined.
On the window switches, I didn't buy them with the power units. There were only 3 complete kits in stock at Nu Relic, and with supply chain issues being what they are, I decided to "Get while the gettin' was good." I bought standard GM window units after ward. Seemed like a no nonsense approach to trying to keep it simple.

A month off....
A month on the road, hitting many of our "Bucket list" sites.....We was plum wore out!
But it was nice to be back in the garage, dinkin' away on the truck. That was like the vacation after the so-called vacation!

 

Yes. Perfect.
I just used grommets and some shrink wrap but those will look spiffy.

 

I got the driver side window in, on the tracks and connected to the regulator. Kind of a work around, because the lift channel that fit on the bottom of the glass that the regulator arm connects to has been out of stock everywhere for months. Passenger side, no problem. I bought one of those quite a while ago, and studied the original. Not a whole bunch of difference aside from the position of the channel part that the roller slides into. So, I drilled out the spot welds, flipped it, spot welded it back together.....BINGO! Driver side lift channel!
Frenchtown, I followed your lead.....for my leads.... I just used some heavy grommets I had on hand and covered the wires with the nylon braided stuff that I have on hand. All that is left is to "Switch It."
Rather than just poke it into the door wall, I'm gonna build some fancy-shmancy armrests out of MDF and put the switches into that. So combo armrest-door pull-switch panel. More on the later.
And, I got the AC system charged. All went well, but it took quite a while, as I kinda figured stuff out as I went. Rental gauge set and vacuum pump. Vacuum pump had a busted cap for the extra port on the pump. So rather than drive back to the store, I improvised with a -4AN cap. Once that was up and running, and after pulling a vacuum, it held for an hour. After that I ran the vacuum pump for another 45 minutes to completely purge the system. I had a bit of trouble getting the system to take in the coolant, but after figuring out which way the knobs were supposed to be turned, the coolant got in there.
One good thing I found out. I had the truck running for over an hour while charging the system, and it held steady temp at 190°, which is the temp fan #2 comes on. And it was hot today too!

 

Good progress.

 

Thanks!
Doors are close to being done. I will be making arm rest/switch panels out of MDF pretty soon. I watched how they do it on TV, so it seems simple enough.

The NextBigProject will be sanding the roof and chipping out old rain channel sealer. Once the roof is painted, then the back glass can go in.
But then once that happens, mama will want to regain her garage parking position. I promised that when all the glass is in, I could park it outside. A promise is a promise, after all.

 

Door #1
Watching hot rod shows on TV has really been paying dividends. So far, I have switch power running to both doors, and I have verified that the lift motors are working. Windows go up and down although the driver side has a little bit of a tight spot mid travel that I'll have to work out. But it works.
First, I made custom aluminum door levers. The splines on the lever spindles on the stock mechanism were mostly stripped off, so I made a press on "spud" that the lever attaches to. The levers are very simple, yet smooth, functional and elegant. They will be mostly hidden behind the armrest.
So what I decided to do with the switches in mount 'em in the arm rest. Not the stock armrest either, which is basically a door pull. Not really enough to rest an arm on.
The fabbed armrests are totally custom. I took some design ques from modern cars to come up with a shape. I made a shape template out of card-stock, and transferred that to MDF particle board. Then I cut progressive smaller shapes to taper down at the bottom. Five layers, for a total stack height of 3.125".
Glued 'em up, clamped 'em tight for a day, then started shaping with my angle grinder and a 40 grit disc. Then the mounting holes were plotted and drilled. I used 10-24 riv-nuts for the door panel and armrest holes in the door.
I was gonna used my router to cut the hole for the switch, but since my milling machine already had sawdust on it from leveling the mount surface and drilling the mount holes, I used that to cut a precisely size square hole, 1.5" deep for the window switches. Then bored a hole to match up with an existing hole on the door for the wires to pass through.
Sanded out the imperfections on the outside for a nice smooth contour, and the first one is DONE! Now I gotta do it again for the other side, except mirrored.
These and the door panels will be covered with the same Mexican blanket material I used on the seats.
As far as the door panels, there really isn't much to 'em. They are just a panel on the top third. That is, if you don't count the access panel at the bottom.
So, I was making a drilling pattern out of some lexan sheet I've had on hand for a long time. The idear was to get all the mounting holes plotted, and transfer that to a chunk of masonite. The I got to thinkin'.
Why can't the door panel core be made from lexan? Should be able to staple through it....maybe.

 

Looks familiar, this is my 48

 

Mike, how many 10-24's are you going to use to hold the armrests to the door?

 

Yeah, I noticed that too. I'd want at least two 1/4-20s across the 'pull' point and add a reinforcement around the nuts in the door. I wouldn't trust those rivnuts....

 

Two 10-24s and one 1/4". The 1/4" serves double duty on the window riser mechanism.
I figured since the original arm rest was held on with two sheet metal screws, this is an upgrade!

 

One thing is certain, you guys really make me think about stuff. This is a good thing! While I was confident in my method of attachment for the armrests, It was buggin' me the entire evening.
Even so, I'm still gonna run it as is, since it's not really a critical component. If they start loosening up or even pull out, then I'll make up some nut plates to attach from behind.
But then I was thinkin' "Dang! How hard do these guys yank on the armrest to pull the door shut?"

And while I'm here, a random question...
My alternator, a one wire 100 amp deal, seems to take quite a bit of oomph to run. It squealed and ate the belt when I first fired the motor a couple months back. And yes, it is perfectly aligned. Replaced that with a Dayco from AutoZone, then it started slipping again last week. I just put a new belt on, a Gates that is slightly wider, and it seems it has to be really tight.
Is this a common theme with higher amperage alternators?

 

Regarding arm rest mount. Could you put a piece of 1/8" flat bar inside door? Drill it and use it to provide extra grip for the rivnuts.