Bringing an F100 Back from the Dead

That is exactly why they say that! And as builders, we are never truly satisfied.
People ask me, "So, is it finished?"
And what you pointed out is precisely what I say!

 

Road trip to the central coast to Morro Bay for the Morro Bay car show, then up to Monterey. 530 miles in all, and right at 20mpg.
Ol' Furd performed flawlessly, even though the comfort level was a bit lacking.
We talked to a lot of folks there at the show, as well as many stops during the trip. Talked to a couple from France in the parking lot at fisherman's wharf in monterey for about 30 minutes!
The trip was a lot of fun, and answered the question....is she REALLY roadworthy?
The answer is YES!

 

Truck is looking good Mike! Glad it all went well for ya.

 

Glad you're getting out of the garage and on the road! Truck's looking good!

 

Thanks guys! We always hope our project cars will pass the test. Until they actually do, then we are only guessing.....and hoping!

 

Lookin' good Mike!

How far off the floor are your brake and clutch pedals? Mine are sky high at 8". Will get the brake pedal to match the clutch on this replacement round but, intention is to try to get it all a lot lower when I install the T5.

 

I'd have to measure. They both use the factory pedal stops. So, they are both even and look pretty natural where they are.

 

So, the piddling continues. Not really satisfied with the feel of my bench seat. The look is cool, and it's relatively comfy for short trips, it's a bit on the bouncy side, and there is not much lower back support.
I got a few quotes for having it professionally redone, and it really set me back in my seat. (See what I did there?)
I looked at various new seats. TMI makes a nice bench seat.....up near 3gs. Nope! Their buckets are a bit less money. About 2gs. Nope!
So lookin' around over the past few weeks, I ran across these Scat ProCar seats. I'd had a set years ago in VW, which were good, and recent reviews were positive. So I decided on tan and got 'em ordered.
Then I get some 1" square steel tube with 1/8th" wall, and began making the mount.
First, make a perimeter frame that fits the seats, then figure out the side to side positioning, as well as fore and aft, then make that fit the trucks floor mounts. Easy!
Also put some threaded inserts to mount a center console, (next project), and got 'er all finish welded up.
Behold!

 

So, interesting observation after the second oil change on Ol' Furd on the rebuilt engine. (2500 miles since she came to life).
I run Brad Penn in everything except Wifey's Corolla. In the drag car, Harley and now the Ol' Furd.
Maybe this is more oil filter related. I use Wix filters in everything too. But this time, I got a Motorcraft FL1a filter. Y'know a Furd filter for a Furd. And this time I used Lucas 10w30 "Classic" (semi syth with high zinc). Flat tappet cam y'know.
Before the oil change, I would get a bit of lifter rattle until the oil pressure came around. Maybe a couple seconds.
After.....no lifter rattle at all.
Motorcraft filter did say it has an anti-drainback valve.
Could that be the reason?

 

You may find this interesting and informative:

https://fordsix.com/threads/study’s-on-oil-filters-that-cross-to-the-motorcraft-fl1a.84876/

 

Wow, that was a big read!
I reckon nuthin is what it used to be any more.

 

The next projects involve both ease of use as well as some security. First up is power remote door locks.
The install should be fairly simple. I was gonna say "easy". But getting under the dash isn't all that easy anymore!
It appears that this kit is expandable to include other features too

 

The power door locks....or any electrical accessory...would have been much easier at the beginning of the rewire. Y'know, when the cab was empty!
But, got 'er done.
And even though I paid attention to details, with extra effort for a clean install, they don't work.
The kit is very good quality, and I should say that everything does indeed work. I've tested every wire, grounds are cleanly screwed to a grounding strip under the dash, and verified that when the correct wire to the control box is grounded, the locks function perfectly.
There is a transmitter that is supposed to receive a signal from the fob. Either the transmitter or fobs are faulty, or it has simply lost it's signal link to the fobs and need to be reprogrammed. That is the most likely cause.
This is where AutoLoc falls short. Their instructions are vague anyway. Easy enough to understand if one knows what they are doing. But no troubleshooting guide or anything about reprogramming the fobs. Plus nothing on their website, which is pretty extensive in every other regard.
So I wait until they open Monday morning to contact them.
Great.
At least it's not out of commission! Everything stills works as before. Here we are at a benefit car show for Valley Children's Hospital...

 

As I suspected, it was simply the fobs needing to be programmed.
A nice kit...
Vague and even missing instructions. There was a whole separate set of instructions for that requiring a visit to a third party provider to get. Which required a call to tech support to get the required sku number.
Klunky AutoLoc. Very klunky

 

Here's why I didn't want a skillion dollar paint job...
Driving down the street minding my business, and a kid pulls put in front of me from his being parked on the roadside. Took evasive action but it wasn't enough, I reckon. Ol' Furd got tagged on the right rear quarter.
Coulda been worse. Hopefully the kid driving the other vehicle and his parents do the right thing.
Otherwise, it's a few hours work, and thankfully, I have some paint left over.

 

Looking great Mike. evasive action in and old truck! Even with my OT front end evasive action would mean avoiding the kid and ending up in the bleachers. Hope it all comes together for you.

 

Ol' Furd gets power steering....Finally!
Well, it hasn't been all that long. The old gal has only been back on the road for a bit over a year.
Manual steering, (or "Power Steering by Armstrong) hasn't been a huge issue. That is until one gets themselves into a tight spot. At which time a wrestling match with the steering wheel ensues.
The bigger issue is the excessive free play at the wheel. About 3 inches. It's kinda like those old movies where someone is driving, and they're sawing back and forth on the steering wheel going down a straight road.
So, I've been gathering all the pieces to do the conversion. It begins today!
I got all the old steering stuff out pretty easily. But that new power steering box is bigger, and a LOT heavier. Too much for this old man to try to muscle in to place. But I got it far enough to know that the oil filter is in the way.
Tomorrow.

 

I changed my 47 Lincoln over to power steering, what a difference. Like driving a different car! I think you gonna like the end result!

 

Mike, you and I are close in age. All of my builds have power steering now and hydroboost.

 

Thanks fellers!
WFO, I put power brakes on it right from the get go. I like good brakes! The hydro boost thing looks pretty interesting.

Once I get the box bolted up, the rest is pretty light work. I have to shorten the steering shift about 2 1/2". The column housing is fine, in fact I don't think I even need to take it apart. Measure, measure again, cut, re-measure, slide the coupler flange on, weld. Simple!
First thing first tho. Steering box. Bolt it on.
I actually have my cherry picker latched on to it to pull it up. Should work. Find out in the morning

 

I dropped my Saginaw PS box a couple of times trying to hold it up with one hand while trying to start a bolt with the other hand, all while laying on my back. Got lucky, never fell near my head! Finally had to finagle it with my hand, prop it with my knee, and get that first bolt started, after that it was a piece of cake. I probably looked like a monkey trying to screw a football for a minute though!

 

Cherry picker worked great to pull that 70lb box up into position. I had to dimple the shock/spring tower a bit to gain some room at the front of the box. They never offered power steering in 1965, so it didn't surprise me much. Although I have read that later model boxes bolt right up. It did, but it didn't sit flush to the side of the frame without making a dimple. Maybe my truck is just weird.
I had already fitted the power steering pump a couple weeks ago, so that bolted on.
Tomorrow's job is shortening the steering shaft. It needs 3". A bit more than I was expecting, but there's still room without have to shorten the column housing too.

 

Everything underneath is buttoned up. All new tie rods with new ends. I used the parrallel box tube method to adjust toe in, as that is the only thing that is adjustable. I clamped a couple sections of box tube to the brake rotors, used a string line for straightness, and set the toe at 1/8".
I also cut the end of the steering shaft off, leaving enough of the shaft on the coupler end to put that in the lathe and bore the shaft out. Then slip the coupler end over the shaft left on the column, and put the column in to get the exact length as well as clocking the wheel correctly. I'll tig the end of the shaft to the coupler, and drill a hole on the shank to do a plug or rosette weld.
The rest is all up top. Hoses, attaching the end of the column...
I have to wait for a new rubber boot for the firewall side of the column to finish that off. I tore the old one up gettin' it out!

 

System plumbed, juiced up and functioning! One finger steering lock to lock.
I still need to wait on the column to floor boot before buttoning it all up permanent!

 

Took O'l furd out for a cruise around the neighborhood. Wanted to make sure the steering was clocked straight.
Steering has some stiffness and some "notchy" feel in some places, but seems to improve a bit after turning a few corners. I'd imagine there's still air trapped inside, and hopefully, it'll work itself out after a while. Add to that, I got the shaft bearings a bit too tight. No real adjustment, other than taking the whole enchilada apart and trimming that little clampy do-dad you can see in the photo above just inside the column housing.

 

Been about a month since the last update.
Power steering has worked itself out for the most part. But when I cinch down the lower column mount, i still get some notchiness. I'm certain the rag joint I have has some run-out and causing some binding. Gotta figure out something for that. Maybe a u-joint, and swap out the stock column bearings for a good set of ball bearings. The bottom one is easy. The top one is gonna require some figurin'.
But, she's running really nice. I added a set of blingy trim rings. That dark maroon along with black tires needed a bit of contrast between 'em. I like 'em. Anyone that don't doesn't need to look at 'em!

Photo from the Friday Night Hot Rod gathering at a local church. Even the '37 Chevy and the elco has 'em.
I'm liking these informal gatherings more than full blown car shows. A couple hours, fabricating stories with friends, and for a small donation, hamburgers and hot dogs are served. No awards, no judging. Just like minded people hanging out.

 

Matthew 7, Verse 1. Judge not that ye be not judged. Seems appropriate for a church cruise in.

 

Ol' Furd at the Veterans Car Show at the Clovis Veterans Memorial.
Pretty cool being with fellow vets on this day!

 

Did the kid who hit you ever pony up and pay for the damage he did?

 

Yep. Him and his parents did the right thing. Insurance paid off on it, and it was a few days work to fix it.
All is good in the 'hood!