here is my problem- while replacing the water pump on a widow friends 62 vette, one of the bolts broke before breaking loose. There is about 1/2 inch of bolt stud still sticking out. This pump was on there many,many years. From the condition of the other 3 bolts I know rust is the problem.Is it safe to put heat on the cast iron block around the broken bolt?Maybe weld a nut onto the stud for a wrench to work it back and forth? I would not like to break it off flush and have to drill it out and risk ruining the block threads. Any suggestions?? Oh yea, the water pump is out of the way now.thanks, Dale
heat and wax. yep, read it in some mag and it DO work most of the time... or weld a nut on the bolt and let cool, THEN unscrew it...
Nooooooooooooo.......here's how I do it....find a flat washer that will go over the busted bolt with the stub sticking outa the middle of the washer....weld the washer to the stub with a wire-feed. Now, find a nut that will allow the rest of the stub to stick through and weld thet*****er to the flat washer.....wait for the red metal to turn black and turn the nut out with the broken off bolt welded to it...Just use a common end wrench or socket with ratchet. All the heat from the welding will have gone to the bottom of the broken-off bolt and it'll turn right out without applying direct heat to the block.
Tell her it's terminal corrosion, motor is definitly*****ed inside and out, but you know somebody who will take the useless remains of her car off her hands for a reasonable price
[ QUOTE ] Nooooooooooooo.......here's how I do it....find a flat washer that will go over the busted bolt with the stub sticking outa the middle of the washer....weld the washer to the stub with a wire-feed. Now, find a nut that will allow the rest of the stub to stick through and weld thet*****er to the flat washer.....wait for the red metal to turn black and turn the nut out with the broken off bolt welded to it...Just use a common end wrench or socket with ratchet. All the heat from the welding will have gone to the bottom of the broken-off bolt and it'll turn right out without applying direct heat to the block. [/ QUOTE ] ..........damn Rocky......throw in a couple photos and that's the TECH WEEK winner!!!
. sometimes the bolt is broken off below the surface. A few spots of weld can build it up above the surface. . . then a nut can be welded on and backed out with a wrench. . . ready to be chased with a tap. Like Rocky says if you weld to the stud it expands quicker than the block and breaks the bond.
Yeah Morrison, I would love to have this car, even though it needs a lot of restoration. Her late husband, A very good friend of mine, died suddenly at age 57 with liver cancer. He had owned the car since he was 22. There is too much sentimental value for her to part with it. It could use a motor, Four of the cylinders are useing some oil. I just had to replace all the wheel cylinders,brake hoses,fuel pump, carb accel. pump(holley),oil, filters,plugs,points,etc. She just wants to be able to drive now and then without it leaving her. It sat a lot before and we all know they GOTTA BE DRIVEN. Dale
Rocky, I have welded the nut to the broke off bolt lots of times. What is the washer welded on there for though?
Skate Fink..I already submitted this for the last HAMB tech week, complete with photos. I performed this excercise on a 2.5 litre Fiero engine with a snapped-off head bolt. The photos were borrowed from the article I originally "borrowed" the idea from. I just used the "search" function of the HAMB to find it again. Here are the photos.
Hillbilly...the premise is; welding the nut directly to the stud means you gotta weld down inside that thick nut and you may not get a good solid weld. However, it you weld down inside a thinner flat washer, you have much more control. Also, welding the nut to the washer gives you much more welded area...ain't no way that nut will bust off that washer. Thirdly, all the steps in this procedure takes more time than simply welding the nut to the broken stud, giving the heat ample time to reach down through that broken stud.
I've always had good luck with a stud remover. I once had an engine with 5 broken intake and exhaust bolts, and the remover got them all. This only works if there is some bolt shaft above the surface. Here's what one looks like: stud remover
I've only ever used a stud extractor on one occasion, to remove a 24mm broken stud from a***** of a place on a giant air compressor. I KNEW it wouldn't work, I KNEW it would just snap off, but I tried it anyway, and that bust off stud came right out!!! I was a real happy camper after that
[ QUOTE ] I've always had good luck with a stud remover. I once had an engine with 5 broken intake and exhaust bolts, and the remover got them all. This only works if there is some bolt shaft above the surface. Here's what one looks like: stud remover [/ QUOTE ] I use that kind(craftsman though) on broken exhaust manifold studs and it really does work good.
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