Technical broken bunghole(s)

Glad my mind wasn't the first to go there

 

Sure wouldn’t want to google that

 

I can't possibly get to the back side on the top bung. On the bottom, the clearance notch for the spring is in the way, so no dice there either. I will probably drill a hole from the top to the bung and plug weld it for support.
These will be filleted TIG welds around the flange on the bungs. The weld will NOT be ground. The driver side is cracked too, so I'm doing all 4 - welding tonight, will post pics tomorrow.

 

When you say Bunghole are you talking about O2 sensors or something else?

 

I am the great Cornholio, have you read the whole thread?
I need TIG for my bunghole !

 

Totally agree ..... the larger flange diameter provides extra welding length at the mounting point but preferably extend them through to the other side to be welded there too. They can be drilled and tapped internally to avoid seeing nuts on the inside chassis face ..... BUT, drill a neat bolt shank diameter about 3/4" - 1" deep and thread the rest. Then use longer #8 bolts with a solid shank extending inside that hole to provide better shear strength/support.

 

Didn't Willy Nelson or Roy Orbison do a song called Broken Bung Holes? Sounds familiar

 

There was a movie named that.....no wait!

 

Looks similar to my arrangement! Looks like you're skipping the plug weld, presumably as it looks like the milled clearancing is breaking into the threads?

Chris

 

I was thinking a piece of steel plate about 3/4" thick drilled and tapped to match the mounting holes to go on the inside of the frame. That would spread the load over a greater surface area instead of relying on material immediately around the holes.

 

Okay, someone has to say it.
Looks like great penetration on your bungholes!
You may want to add another lap if they are only supported on this end, though.