Any ideas on how to remove broken rocker stud in #370 Chev head. Stud is 1/2 " below hole. It isn't a level crack. Machine shop said they couldn't/ wouldn"t do it. I have arc/acet/ mig. IDEAS... yes I searched!!!!! 52 csb
change machine shops. Most probably, it's simply too much hassle for them to rig up the head on a fixture, then level the fracture line with a cutter head to drill out the remains of the stud in several steps.
thats why they dont want to try to get it out!!!the problem isnt getting it out its how do you put one bach in!!the anly thing i could sugest is maybe drilling it out and then tapping it and putting in a screw in style stud.
"change machine shops..." Exactly! Any machinist with a milling machine can get that out with an end mill. Might cost a bit, but what's another head worth? Also agree with the thread-in replacement.
Machine shop won't do that? Change machine shops. Quite simple operation you could do on a drill press. Drill and tap for a stud.
Machine shop doesn't want to mess with setup. I would try another machine shop. But if you must you can try and drill a hole down it then use an easy out to turn it in the bore. I would probably give it a good soaking and or heat it. Screw in studs is the only way to go after you remove the old one. But you can locktite the hell out of a push in using the loctite cleaning solvent and red loctite.
Thanks guys, bought a cobalt bit, but it didn't do it. I am using drill press but stud is hard.Was mentioned to use stud gun to weld to it for extraction.
We once had to send an expensive part to Houston to get a broken tap out. The used a machine that shattered it with high frequency sound waves. You may be able to machine it with a pure carbide end mill, but they are not cheap! I would try this; heat it up with a torch till it is cherry red, then insulate it with sand or an asbestos blanket so it cools slowly. this should anneal it and make it easier to machine. But even then it is still tool steel, so use plenty of coolant so it doesn't work harden. A machinist that works on dirt trackers should be able to supply a new stud that has threads but looks just like all the others, I think they get Loctite-ed in.
Change machine shops and while you're at it convert both heads to screw in studs before it happens again. You'll be duplicating setup for the drilling operation and the tapping operation which is good for budget. good luck
if those stud bores go all the way thru into the water passage so you should be able to use a good drift punch and a 5# hammer and knock it thru instead of pulling it out... or at least deep enough to tap it for a screw in stud. but if you insist on drilling it just be sure to set your drill to the slowest speed possible and use cutting oil so you dont burn the bit ....
EDM machining. I have used them to remove broken pinned studs. Then machine and tap for screw in studs.
you have to set up the head in a bridgeport, clamp it tightly to the table, then go straight in with a reamer or mill, and mill that stud FLAT on top, the little bit of hole remaining above the stud should guide the reamer or mill or drill- once you get it flat, you can then drill it all the way out, or drill it out small and progressively bigger until it's gone- you could also try to tap it and thread a bolt into it, and pull it out with vice grips
On similar things I have drilled a hole through the part and then packed it full of grease and then used a punch (same size as drilled hole) to force the stud out using the grease (since it doesn't compress). You may have to fill it with grease a time or two depending on how far it has to come out. On ocassion I have also used a regular masonary bit to drill through hard items - definitely NOT as good as a real carbide drill bit but it has saved my butt more then once (drilling thru broken taps and such). However I do agree with everyone telling you to find a new machine shop - this should be somewhat standard fare for them. Makes you wonder if they can't handle that - then how good are they at anything else.