so, sounds/looks like you have big project but, will be cool once you upgrade it. lot's of T's have been built up so, should be lots of inspiration out there for you to check out.
Looks like it's rolling on 14" Mustang Slot wheels from the mid 70's. Looks like they might be 4 lug (Mustang II). But if they are 5 lug ('73 and back a couple years) they might be worth some money. Hard to find and the 71-73 Mustangs are getting collectable finally. Looks like a nice complete little car.
Booger welded!!! I love it!! I finally have a description for my welding skills! BTW, good luck with the car.....
Wow! You got some good T parts. I can't remember ever seeing a T front axle used on a hot rod! I don't think i would.
T axle with what looks like Datsun drum brakes.. Way different! Definite seventies build. I hope you are planning on keeping the fenders and running boards too. I have both a '23 roadster and a '23 touring body and fenders slated for a future project as well. I'm sticking with a four in my cars just because of space constraints, but lets face it, a four cylinder barking through minimal mufflers is just the right noise coming out of a "T". If you have a L20B Datsun, you'll find all sorts of cool hop up stuff out there for that motor, 'cause they were raced tons in the seventies and eighties. Oh, and later trucks have a five speed that bolts up too with no changes. Going to a flatty after that would feel like a giant step backwards, trust me. As far as a frame goes, a stock type "T" frame can be built from 1 1/2" X 3" tube in about 2 hrs. Easiest frame to build on this planet, and probably should be done at the power level you are at now.
I wouldn't suggest keeping the "T" axle either. Going with standard '28-'34 type hot rod stuff wouls be a great thing. Keep the rear axle but fix the spring mounts and what ever is locating the rear end too. Bit honestly, depending on what datsun was robbed to power that thing, you might have a great basic set up that will haul allot more *** than you might want too in that particular car!
Remenber the Datson powered '29 Frank Otto built as a series in R&C. I agree on the axle. If you plan on any kind of serious driving at least look ata Model A axle etc. '37 to '48 spindles will give you many choices for good brakes too. Are you planning on findimg the rest of a touring body for it? Ron
I remember Frank Oddo dipping his entire '40 Coupe in the Reddi-Strip vat. The thing leaked paint-eating acid ever after. Anything for a magazine 'scoop'! Enter the Brennan league.
The frame work is pretty typical of what was done back in the seventies by non-hot rod kinda guys. Instead of looking for a stock "T" frame to work from, build your own from 1 1/2" X 3" .1250 wall steel tubing. Soooo much easier than finding something good and much stronger too. Wescott fibergl*** has always had dimensioned drawings in the back of their catalogs for reference, but just build it to stock spec and you'll be fine.
Tubing is cheap Consider building a frame,Just add crossmembers.......oh well just read last post,,,,,Goodluck with it .Ill definatelly follow this thread
As Louver said, get yourself a 20' stick of 1 1/2 x3, 11ga tube and a Model A front crossmember. Cut 2 pieces for the side rails. Cut the T rear crossmember from your orignal frame and haul them to your welder. Take a sketch with measurements with you. Be nice to the guy 'cause you'll be going back to him a few times for bracket mounting,etc. You can keep the price down by doing the set-up. Ron
Youngster has the right idea! The problem with running a stocker and boxing it and hanging brackets and such is two fold: By the time you pay someone to do the boxing etc., you'll have spent almost twice what you would to have him weld up a tubing repro. The other is a bit harder to explain, but back in the Model 'T" and "A" era, Ford built their frames wuth a steel that is basically spring steel. Welding boxing plates into the stuff is an exercise in frustration. You weld a bit, turn it over and weld somewhere else to keep warpage down, then go back and weld up the cracks in the first weld... Have something made, you life will be allot easier.
Keep your rear crossmember from your original frame and reuse it in the '26. The late "Ts" had a wider rear cross member. Sorry to see that your going that route, and I think you might have missunderstood what we were trying to tell you with the box tubing deal. Just build it as a replica of the stock. ANY weld shop can handle the four joints for you in no time at all. It sounds kinda tough, but it's not. The last stock replacement "T" fame I laid up around here took less than half a day to do. Then you can take it home and do all the measuring and drilling for body mounts and running board braces and fender mounts and such. You'll spend much more time doing that than the shop would fabrcating the frame it's self. The stocker will be just fine if you stick with the light Datsun running gear, but it would be better off with an X member of some sort for some support value throughout. I wish I wasn't awash in projects right now around here 'cause I have the same car you do to do basically the same thing with, only with a Ford 2300cc four. I'd throw a frame together to show how quick it is, and that you don't have to make it "T" bucket fenderless car to do it.
This is actually the second car in a week I have seen posted on here with pinto/mustang II aluminum slots. Maybe the Mayan calender is on to something...
Those sneaky Mayans...Predicting the future to include Mustang II wheels and the end of the universe!
You'd think if they were so goddam smart, they would have predicted the arrival of all those small-pox infested Spaniards...
Need louvers - Sounds like this is going to be one of those live and learn situations. You are spot on with your advise. Ron
Cool! Glad to hear your progessing! I can't wait to see the end result! Now, to you guys back in the midwest - it's a little hard to got too worked up about 11 days over 105... It's been that or more for 2 1/2 months or so and another month and a half to go at least. Stay cool though and keep at it!
this thread needs a lot more pictures. I'd like to see more of what you are working with. ..boy, that original frame was scary.
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