I have a question for the HAMB regarding my axle I posted above. It’s a 32 replacement axle and I plan to install my original Model A spindles, splitting my original wishbone and run my mechanical brakes. The kingpin size is the same, I know I’ll need a 1/4” spacer for my wishbone. My question is with the spring perches. I’ll be using my original A front spring, will I be able to use my A spring perches? Or do I need 32 perches? I’ll be installing tube shocks as well if that changes anything. Thanks guys
Right now the wishbone is a hairs thickness from hitting the bellhousing. It probably does hit the bell housing as I'm driving down the road. When I put the new axle in it will definitely need to be split and moved to the outside of the frame.
The perch pin location won't change, just the spindle and wheel etc. Center stays the same unless you drop the spring more by reverse eye etc. Wishbone doesn't move much near the bell housing. Dave
Great thanks Dave, I’ll try and use the perch pins I am currently using then. I took a photo of underneath the car to show how close the wishbone is to hitting. This is why I think I’ll need to split the wishbone if I go any lower, but this is my first time messing with early Fords so if I don’t need to let me know!
Little update, I haven’t driven the car in a while so no photo’s of that. I mounted the Dietz fog lamp, I’m trying to get some cloth covered wire to hook it up. Can’t seem to find a Canadian supplier and ordering something as little as wire is insanely expensive to get here from USA. I did find this cool old switch for when I do get the wire though, does anyone have any idea what year the switch may be from?
On the wheels you measure with on the inside where the tire lip seals, looks like 4”, they could be 1940.
Oh ok thank you, I didn’t know that! I’ll be on the look out for another pair of 40 wheels and then see if I like them better then the 35 wires.
Not to alarm but I'm wondering if those 40 rims are a bolt on without an adapter...I was searching for Threads ID'ing 40 rims and it was mentioned on stock A drums they needed something...were the 35 wires a bolt on without a spacer...any Hambers know about these swaps? https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/40-ford-wheels-on-a-model-a.750368/#post-8330045 https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/1940-ford-wheel.606327/
Thanks Stogy. The 35's bolted right up. These 40 wheels will need that little ring/spacer I guess according to those links you provided. That's alright, I'm in no rush. I just like hoarding early Ford stuff now that I've been working on this Tudor. Eventually I want to do a much more in-depth build, I think a roadster. So I'm just collecting parts I think are cool or I may be able to use one day.
Did some running around today. I can’t wait to get the 32 axle under this, I think it’ll sit great. I think it needs a chop though, start with 3 1/2” and see what it looks like. Likely end up at 4” though.
'40 wheels will NOT safely bolt on although the bolt pattern is the same. Save the wheels for later when you decide to put '39-'48 hydraulic brakes on it. Then with hyd brakes, to run the wire wheels you need the thin spacers but not with '40 wheels. Dave
Thanks Dave for clearing that up. The plan is to hang onto them for the time being. Either use them later or on another car all together.
Between work and house reno’s I managed to start removing the interior of the car, the first step to chopping the top. I’m hoping to not disturb the bottom half of the door cards, the car won’t be getting the interior done anytime soon, so trying to keep what’s there in tact. I haven’t removed the headliner yet, I peeled back a bit and seen some chicken wire holding up what looks like the blown in insulation my attic has. I don’t want to touch the vinyl top on the car, so if I remove the headliner, suck all the insulation out with a vacuum, would I be able to drive the car like that? Or does the insulation keep the vinyl roof from flapping around?
Take a look at Paul Shin's Model A videos on youtube. He has one where he replaces the roof, and shows what is normally up there. How to install a new top on a Ford Model A The car is looking great, and I agree with all mods so far. I wonder about the chop, but this is probably one of the easiest cars to do, so the outcome is more likely to be positive.
I can say that you can space down the stock mount for the pivot ball but the thing to remember is arc of rotation, 1" at the front axle is like 1/32" movement there by the bell housing. Don't split the wishbones.... Work around it. The axle will retain all the geometry you have there right now just moves the kingpin bosses up to lower the car. Dig the car man.. Gota love banger A tudors! The 32 axle conversion to retain mech brakes... 1932 axle 1932 spindles. 1932 spring perch for mechanical brakes. 1932-34 kingpin kit. The v8 trans is overrated if you get driving the crash box down. I don't think I will ever swap over the banger to a v8 trans again. Downdraft intake with a good 2 barrel carb, mallory dual point distributor, and a 6-1 or 5-1 high comp head and let her eat. If you find you want more top end, I would suggest a 3.54 gear, I did the 3.27 behind my last banger car, it would fly at 75 on the highway but thankfully I had 100hp to pull the gear down low.
That is a regular bonafide 32 axle. It has the circle end to the web, which shows it was made by a kinda rare set of dies, but still a 32-produced axle. Some guys get all weird about calling 32 axles "heavy", and others get confused about the same-size but different-shaped 33-36 axles being used as replacements on a 32. But you have a real 32 axle, not a later replacement. I'm not a mechanical brake guy, but I do also recommend doing the complete 32 spindle/perch/brake swap like mentioned above. It would be a bolt on to the 32 axle with no pivot spacers required if you had used the A perches.
Thanks for the tip, he’s got some good videos if you have an original - lightly modified A. I just watched the video your referring to, I think I’m going to go ahead and remove the headliner, chicken wire and insulation. If the vinyl is flapping around which I think it will be I’ll stuff some foam in between the wood and top and hopefully tighten things up. Thanks man I really appreciate it. I loved reading your banger A thread, lots of inspiration! Spacing the wishbone down sounds like a much better idea then splitting it. Never thought of that. I’ll be heading in that direction now that you brought it to my attention. I recall seeing a pair of 32 spindles at the last swap meet I was at and thought “why would I need those”? I was only looking for round backs so I could start collecting juice brake stuff.. thought I could use what I had, dammit. Early Ford stuff seems hard to find up here, and ordering from the states, the dollar right now is crazy for us. Thank you! I love this site and how so many like-minded people can get together and help each other. That’s awesome, thanks for letting me know! Trying to research 32 axles, so many people have different opinions it’s hard to get an accurate answer. I’m not staying with the mech brakes because I prefer them or thing they’re better, but because I have them, they work and don’t have money for juice ones atm. Finding an early ford juice setup within a few hours drive would be awesome, I’d even order a brand new set of spindles, drums, etc. but the cost is just too much. I’ll try and use what I have and hopefully find some 32 spindles and perches to make the switch easier.
Mechanical brakes set up properly will work fine with the stock or mildly modified A engine at least there is no chance of leaks
Today I removed the headliner in the car. Little bit of a messy job, the dirt and dust in the headliner from over the years was plentiful. Surprisingly, it looks like the insulation material in between the chicken wire and vinyl roof will stay there. I picked off all the loose pieces, but the final test will be going down the road with the windows down. I was planning on leaving the rear side windows in during the chop, but they don’t roll down all the way and will be too close to where I’ll be cutting and welding. So next I’ll remove the door cards inside and get the windows out.
If you are not going to completely strip the interior and glass for the chop https://www.mcmaster.com/products/welding-blankets/flame-and-heat-resistant-blankets-6/ Be safe and protect the car from damage and fire.
I’ve pretty much got all the interior yanked out now. But a good welding blanket is something I don’t have and likely something I’ll need the more I get into this hobby, thanks! That is awesome, thank you for the rendering! I think just a hair less of a chop than what you’ve got there. It’s really really close though
I got all the interior bits taken off. Just the drivers seat is left. I’m going to do the chop at my dads place, he’s got a bigger shop and better tools. However, he’s never done a chop before either so it’ll be a learning experience for the both of us. I have 3” taped up on the car right now, doesn’t look like it’s enough. But it’s easier to take more off then add. So I’ll cut 3”, put the top on and check it out. Maybe cut another 1/2”, then put the top on again. We’ll see.
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