I picked up an aluminum Buick/Olds 215 CI V8 (this one’s an Olds, they are the same except for the heads) and 5 speed with the intention of putting it into my ‘28 RPU. I had a buddy that was going to help out with the fabricating etc (at the moment, I don’t have a welder or know how to use one, but that’s going to change). He has run into some health problems and is backing out. I can’t blame him but it’s really leaving me hanging. I’m debating about going forward without him or reversing direction and going back to a banger motor. I have never swapped an engine (I have changed many engines but always like for like) before and feel overwhelmed. I would think that at a minimum a crossmember would be required, possibly a K member?
I think this job will be tough for a beginner. To do it correctly, the body will need to come off . A banger would be a direct swap. Just my thoughts.
Engine swaps are as difficult as you make them. You don't mention what your general location is, but I'm sure that there are HAMBers in your area who would be willing to give you the benefit of their experience. If you have questions, just ask. Someone has the answer you need, and you may get so many different opinions that you'll finally have to try something, or you'll never get it done. I see that @wuga posted a reply to your original thread detailing some of the work he had to do getting a 215 into his A. Message him and see if he has more pics and advice. Posted by @nochop in another thread.
We all started somewhere. DO NOT start with the body off - how will you know firewall clearance etc. Drop the engine/trans between the frame rails and block it up to the height/angle needed. Make sure you have clearance for your steering and set the radiator in place to check that clearance. The little Buick is pretty compact and may not require any firewall clearance. Another thing to consider is the RPU is pretty short on interior space and moving the firewall back 3-4" can really effect if the car is still fun to drive. Then start your CAD (cardboard aided design) mounts cut what you need and hot melt together. Then cut the parts out of steel and weld them together. Check your local adult ed to see if they have welding cl***es - if not YouTube is your friend.
That engine needs a good cam, and some cylinder head (intake port) work to run well. My brother had al Olds some years back that I helped him with. Nice little car once the engine was sorted, and figured out how to make a little more than just pedestrian speed horsepower. Mike
Get the engine running first before spending time making it fit. Those little jewels can melt inside. I've never gotten both heads off without breaking a couple of head bolts or pulling the threads out of the block. jack vines
What condition is that engine in? I would run it on a stand to get some idea. That engine will cost more than a Chevy,or Ford sb to over haul.You wont find cheap performance parts for it either.Sure it looks really cool to have a flathead, or other neat engine,but they add to the build cost if money is important.Theres a reason so many cars get Chevys installed.You can buy mounts to bolt in a Chevy,but that Olds will require fabing skills. As someone once said....it costs money to go fast, how fast do you want to go?
The real advantage to the Buick/Olds 215 is the weight. That 305 lbs makes the A front end handle like a dream. I love the engine and have built several of them, blown and carbed, but it will be $$$$$$. D&D Fabrication make a bellhousing to mount the T5 or any other Chev flanged trany behind them. These engines can produce enough power to move any model A and certainly make it unique. I have built several for the Model A but now only drive a banger and it is much more fun. If you want to install the 215 in the Model A, only a minor change to the toe kick is necessary. In the first picture, you will see how the firewall kicks forward. A minor pie cut and bringing the firewall back flat allows good room for clearance. The bell housing is the same, I am running a Super T10 but it makes no difference for the T5 except perhaps for the floor hump. D&D is also the best source for power out of these engines. Warren
I am north of Seattle in western Washington. To be honest, it’s been so long since I posted this (or a very similar) question that I completely forgot that I had already done so. I favored the 215 because it is cool, different, 100# lighter than a banger, and 4 times the HP bone stock, and the distributor is in the front, what’s not to like? I already have the trans (5 speed) mounted to the engine. No, I would not begin the project without confirming that the engine is good (the guy that has backed out has an engine dyno and used to drag race these motors so I thought I had that part covered. Now that he’s gone from the picture I’m back to figuring it out for myself. As you all know, times are a changin and finding a welding course has been near impossible (the local community colleges no longer teach anything you can actually use). I did however, find a place that is private (not a part of anybody’s public school system) place that has welding cl***es (expensive but no doubt worth every penny) and I’m already signed up. All that said, just yesterday I picked up an insurance policy, a fresh built B (counterweighted) motor. I think that I would really like the 215 but I admit it would be a challenge. I can’t be angry at the guy for backing out, he really has developed some health problems but It’s hard not to be, he has really left me hanging.
I don’t know if this is in his ballpark, but you might try messaging Hitchhiker. Seattle Speed shop, north end of Seattle. Have a look at his profile, go to his links.
Those engines suffer from corrosion on the deck surfaces. I welded up several sets of heads back in the 70's when you used to see these still being used on a regular basis.
Most of you know that Buick(GM) sold the patterns for these to Rover, so they were developed into the late '90s/ early 2000s, & stronger blocks/complete engines with several choices of transmission are still available in the Pik/n/pull type yards at reasonable prices
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