Hey 2$ Bill, Some of the comments about your windshield frame are a bit "over the top", constructive criticism is good, comments such as "looks like shit" aren't worth "shit". Just so you don't feel too abused know that I only waded into this thread to help out a fellow HAMBer. I think using wood for the design you have started isn't structurally up to the task. And I don't want to see anybody get hurt. If your heart is set on using wood, chop the frame down so it is just below your line of sight. Use some steel angle to surround the wood on the outside and back (side towards the drivers compartment) and tie the steel surround into the body mounted steel brackets. Paint the steel black to match your car. This way the loading on the wood pushes it backed into the rigidity of the steel angle, but from the front of the car you will still be able to see the wood. I think this design would fit right in with the look of your car plus give you a strong design. I also endorse C9's comments about roadster windshields. On my '27 RPU (see below) I used the stock steel windshield posts but chopped them down to only use the lower windshield of the stock '27 Model T (2) windshield design. I also lowered the seat position and springs so I am sitting pretty low in the stock steel body tub. That being said when driving the car I am actually looking just a bit over the top of the windshield. At speeds from nearly nothing up to 85 mph the air goes up over my head, just like C9 states in his post. Keep posting pictures and progress. John
Bill... workmanship and aesthetics aside, you have, what looks to be, about a half inch or three quarters (?) of wood whose section runs with the grain. This looks to be placing a lot more faith in that thickness of wood than seems wise. It sure wouldn't hurt to rethink that thickness at the back of the rabbet where the load is going. himmelberg
Ya know, reading lakeroadsters last comment, I do have to agree with the use of the original windshield posts. They are substantially taller, even when chopped, and will add overall strength to the entire design. Lakeroadster, I love your rpu, that is a good looking truck, I hope mine comes out nearly as nice. ...and to put my money where my mouth is, as far as having faith in the wooden windshield, I will donate a pair of original windshield posts to $2Bill if he chooses to use them
Never take advice from a dyke, let alone one that camped out at college so long she became a Doctor Sorry, I couldn't help myself. Come on Nosurf, you are the Structural Engineer here. Care to wade in and offer some advice as to the use of wood for a windshield frame?
Thanks to all that have commented, no matter what was said... I have armadillo hide and you can't hurt me. Thanks for all the concern and generosity too. The offer of different mounting posts by ELECTRODUDE is most kind. A hearty THANKS, but, I remain certain I'll be okay. I think the photo I posted is the cause of most of the controversy. Re-reading thru the the responces, it appears that most have looked at the pictures rather than reading the text. The photo seems to exagerate the height. It is only 20 inches high - A common height on most of these "T" windshields. Some how the picture makes it look way oversized. My screen name may be doing me a dis-service too. "2$ Bill" was meant to be an old-fashioned reference to the Hank Williams tune about having a Hot Rod Ford and a 2$ Bill. Honestly, I am not an uncurable cheapskate that would risk a hazard to to save a buck. Part of my motivation is self-sufficiency. With the exception of buying a Speedway frame and hiring some one to paint the body, I have done ALL the entire car myself. I remain certain, especially in light of my previous woodworking experience on air planes, that a wood frame will be very serviceable. Some of the scare factor is the wood screws seen presently in the posts thus far. Those are being utilized to aid fabrication. That is NOT fasteners that will be in place at the completion of the build. I have very strong button head furnature bolts that will secure the corners upon completion. In retrospect, I should have explained that. This is the first time I've ever attempted this kind of a post. Duly noted. Pics thus far do not show the support rods that are on the way. Some may be thinking I'm trying to make it wholly unsupported because they haven't appeared in the pics yet. That essential bit of "triangulation" support is a must no matter what the size. The biggest thing I'm guilty of is doing a test drive before the whole project is done. I gave in to my kid side and drove it before I should have... My bad! I will continue to make posts thru the completion of the project. I am a person of integrity. I will make periodic posts even if the framework fails. Some one then could pick-up a 1920 "T" Cheap... Just wash out the blood and pay the widow. May I please be excused from making the "fail" post if I am dead?
NO. We demand satisfaction! The offer stands Mr. Bill, if your posts don't function well enough, you've got some over here in Rain-Land
Steel wire or narrow strap could be inlet into the tension sides of the oak pieces (backside for top and bottom pieces, frontside for side pieces), epoxied in place (with good "fixation" at the ends)....if brass was used it could even be polished... ...front and back sides of the side (vert) pieces could have this as a sandwich construction... .
Pasadinahotrod said they sold the cast aluminum 27 T posts for many years! Without any failures, Well my cast aluminum post broke as I told you in the above LOWLID DUDE experience. Brace that sucker with supports going down to the frame near the radiator and I would chop the glass a little shorter, But hay thats just me.Build it the way you want but always think safety first. A windshield slammed in your face could ruin your day.
The Jalopy Journal
