George, I sort of wonder IF it was a "use-up-the-left-over-***embly line-parts" when the 327 came out in 62, before going to the "newer" design small journal rod, but who knows for sure? My older sister's boyfriend at the time, had a 62 Impala SS with a 327-4 speed (this was about "1969"). He'd decided to swap in a 325 HP 396, and the 327 was lying on the side of his house, and was for sale. It had 1.94 double hump heads, was a 4 inch bore block, but had the "early" style rods when we tore it down to check it out. There was some question it was really a 283 taken .125 out, but it had a 327 casting number crank. A friend of mine bought it, and it wound up in a 62 Chevy II four door sedan(what a mess that car was when ***embled!). He wound up tossing one of those spindly rods, spun out in the oil, and caved in an entire rear door/quarter panel; the entire car went to the wrecking yard, and his parents co-signed for the new 69 340 Dart he bought (the "reason" I bought a 70 340 Dart-my only non Chevrolet). Out of curiousity, I went onto E-Bay looking at used rods and rods/pistons; a couple of 327 rod/piston ***emblies with the early version rods, but one with the late rods. I imagine since late 327's came with the 2nd design rods, then so did the 283's of the same era (?????). The 327 I bought for my FED came out of Marysville, Wa. The guy had it in a Fiat Topo altered, torn apart and ****tered about his cold, wet, dirt floor garage. I wanted to pull a head and the pan to check the engine out. He had said it had aluminum rods. 3782870 block casting number, 62-65, with 461 fully ported and polished heads with good springs/retainers/seals and pinned studs (they were!). The rods however were first design small journal, and further lightened by grinding/polishing the beams, and they had been converted to full float. BIG domes on the pistons. He said he had already sold the Enderle fuel injection. I was going to rebuild the engine keeping everything the way it was. Cylinders were rusted badly, and ring lands were corroded very badly, pistons were junk . I used only the block and crank, and went looking for rods. No one had any small journal rods, and then I went into Seattle Core Exchange (run by Kent Chaplin's father-Kent Chaplin of Kompact Kar Korner and now Chaplin's VW/Subaru in Bellevue). I was sorting through his "rod pile" looking to match up 8 2nd design rods; he asked what I was doing, and when I told him, he threw me out saying " he could sell the whole lot to a rebuilder and did't need me" (???). I then went into Ken Liden Racing Engines in Everett (I "knew" he would't have any, no one did), and asked if he had any 327 rods. He pulled a set of 8 out from under a counter hanging on coat-hanger wire; 2nd design and made my day! Bought them on the spot ($35.00!!!) and had him rebuild them. I bought a set of TRW L2166 pistons in .040 over; that's what it took to clean the block up. I had planned to use the lightened rods, but the block would't clean up at .030; they took it .040 over before talking to me, and then I could't find any HIGH compression pistons in that oversize to use the full float rods. NO stock type pistons were available with a circlip retaining ring for the full float rod pins, and no .040 aftermarket with clips, so I had to get new rods AND pistons. My cheap engine was costing me $$$; I did't even have it balanced! I basically wound up building a 340/365 HP short-block, with a really mild flat tappet, mechanical lifter cam, had the heads rebuilt, 300-25 Holley intake and 750 DP carb, single point distributor converted to full centrifugal advance, ****** adjustable upswept dragster headers. That engine's been in 3 cars now; the dragster, my truck until it burned one of the lightened and "tuliped" exhaust valves, and a 63 Chevy II station wagon (broke a ring and scored the cylinder wall-had to be sleeved). It's been rebuilt again and sits waiting for a future project. So, what year the change from first to second design rods, I don't know for sure, but my guess is mid year 62 (???). I know I've seen articles about first VS second design small journal rods, but I can't find them now; NO ONE messes around with the small stuff anymore it seems (my machinist thinks I'm nuts), and most who do don't know about first VS second design. Except us old guys; and were getting forgetful (yeah, right). At least it's not the "small journal 350 exists" argument; here we go again! I am Butch/56sedandelivery. Were't the 283 rods/pistons (292 incher) I sold to you 2nd design rods? Maybe I should refer to them as first and second design small journal rods, and not "327" first and second small journal rod design?
Hombre, What carbs would you suggest to use? I also have been searching the 6619-1 Holley. Yes it is a emissions carb. I have read were some have rejet it, and it's worked out for them. I have also tried to find out what the difference between a Holley 1850-1,2,3,4 (1,2,3,4 is going from metal floats and back) and a 6619-1 is. But with two of them ( 2x 600 =1200) being on top of my 327 (331) with a good rpm cam, and reworked 462 heads, headers (1 5/8 or 1 7/8 ?) would they not be more then enough. Where I'd have to still jet them to be right. Whether it's jetting them up, or down. I do not know, I'm guessing. I have to keep this a low budget project. I have one that's like new, and I now have a 1850-1. Which only needs a cleaning, and gaskets.
Some how that posted it's self while I was typing! Now I forgot what I was going to typing! Arrr. Thanks, Pat
I had a 6619 on an Edelbrock hi rise on my '73 Cutl*** S, 350/4spd. Couldn't make the Q-jet work ( and actually I happen to like them) so I bought the Holley. Worked great on the Cutl*** and as I recall the idle circuit is backwards compared to a regular Holley. Turning the screws CCW will lean the idle circuit. There is an extra idle air bleed below the primary venturis that connects to the idle screw, so that the CCW adjustment can admit more air to the transfer slots
Pat, I have run 2x4's and four different small blocks. I have never owned a 350 so all of those were on 327's and 283's. I personally have always had pretty good luck with a 2x4 setup on a small block. If it was me setting up a new motor with 2x4's I would use Edelbrock Carbs simply because they are so damn easy to make work. For a smaller displacement motor like you are talking about building I would use the 500 cfm Edelbrocks. But I also had a 327 that I ran two 390 cfm Holleys on and it always ran sweet and never ever gave me any problems I believe that carb number is a 8007 but if that is in correct someone will for sure correct me and furnish you with the correct #. Now with that said, I have just never used many Holley carbs but that is just me. I certainly don't have anything against them, I just don't have a lot of experience with them. Today however the big Brown Truck brought me three brand new Holleys. This is going to be a first for me. These carbs are for the 392 Hemi I am building for my Model A, I decided to go with three of the 2300 series Holleys. I guess this will be trial by fire, and I damn sure better get a handle on those Holleys and pretty quick as well.
Far from an expert, thinking out loud here. With the parts plan you have mentioned, the 1 5/8" headers are perfect, even more aggressive parts would be supported by them. The 1 7/8" headers will require adapter plates, they fall into the serious big inch small block category. I have 1 3/4" custom headers for my .040 over 327 (350 h.p. spec.) and I suspect they are really too big but wanted the bases covered for a future 427 cubic inch upgrade.
Hey Falcon Keep that Isky on the shelf and put in a ticky-ticky Duntov 30-30 cam, then a set of split Hedman headers with 4 mufflers and 4 pipes out the back That is what we did at Bob's Big Boy in Van Nuys 60' style and the sound is ' Priceless ' DND
Hombre, I'm not a fan of Holley's either. I have had more trouble then good from them in the past. I have always said, that they are like a bic lighter, once you've have problems, toss them out, and get a new one. I do like Q-jets. I had one on my sbc 400. modified it by drilling out the adjustment screws. That's after I had two other Holley's on it. I have always used Q-jets, with out a problem with them. But I don't think Q-jets would look right on top of a tunnel ram. Plus I have the Holley's, and only need a gasket kit for one of them. I did have a '67 Camaro with a 283, and a tunnel ram with two Edelbrock's on it. It ran real good, till I hit the dinner plate size ice patch, and blew it. Pat
DDDenny, I ment to write 1 3/4 not 1 7/8. My bad. I was thinking that I would use the 1 5/8, before I had asked. But wanted to hear what others had to say. Thanks, Pat
I dropped off my crankshaft to be turned. It was already turned once. It is -.010 & .010. All the journals have scaring on them. He said that it'll all clean up with another .010 off. Except, for #5 rod journal. He'll have to take it down to -.040, so all of the rods will be .040 under. He said that bearings have changed now days. Before he said that they just added more Babbitt to the steel, he say's now they add more steel, so that it's not a thick coating of soft Babbitt, and they work like standard size does, but last longer. After he is done turning the crank, I will bring him the rods, he has a replacement one for the bad one. He will recondition them, and balance the crank/ rods/ pistons for me. and then I'll bring in the block, and he'll hone it, clean it, then put in new cam bearings. Talk about a engine candy store! He has a big shop. In it is stacked with clean blocks, stacked on end 4-5 blocks high. You can not see most of his equipment. Cranks standing on end, I mean 100? Buckets filled with pistons, buckets filled with rods. Outside he has blocks, cranks, and a hell of a lot of parts, everywhere! I'm going to go to Hombre's, and pick up the heads. I have to find out what has to replaced in them, and to be done to them. After all that is done, then I get to start figuring out a cam, and get all the parts to ***emble it. Of co****, as I earn the money to do so. Pat
FYI, spin on filters are available with much better efficiency than the old canister filters. IMO they are much easier and cleaner to replace, but if you like the looks of the canister than go with what you like.
Blues4U, I am going to use a spin on filter. They are easier, and cleaner like you say. The engine machinist I'm using, carries the Trans-Adapt brand one. But I do like the looks of the canister filter. Pat
I want to THANK Hombre! The wife and I drove down to his house (Man Cave) to pick up the heads. You have to watch how you walk, or you'll bump into a Hemi. He is a very nice guy to talk with, and you can tell he enjoys working with all his toys. He even taught him self, how to sew upholstery. He has a pair of buckets that he just covered for a Tudor. He wasn't sure if he liked the colors. Both the wife, and I agreed, they looked nice, and the color choice was right for the car. I could have sat, and talked all day, but we had to leave to make the trip back home. Darn! But we both have a new friend! The heads are in very good shape, we agreed that I could just use them the way they are. They were just redone not long ago, but I'm going to check the guides to make sure their good, and have them cut to take better seals. I am a lucky person, to have someone like Roland, to give me a set of heads like these! I would have had to settled for some odd ball newer heads. Thanks again Roland!!! Pat
Specs for TQ30 Na TQ30H https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/sig-erson-cam-specs-needed-small-block-chevy.582859/
Build the combo first. 700r4, 3.40 to 4.11 gear, depending what you wanna do. play around with gear calculator https://****erparts.com/calculators/transmission-ratio-rpm-calculator. I'd go with the 327 stock stroke, as much compression as pump gas will handle. Decide on your heads, cam it from there. If you have to choose where to spend money, spend it on heads. Stock 327 short blocks are good to go, hypereutectic pistons are fine unless you wanna run nitrous, spend the $ to balance it. Good quality Standard volume oil pump and single timing chain are fine. Vortec heads will outperform the old heads all day - you will need a specific vortec intake or be prepared to modify an old intake. Decide if you want to run a stall converter, will determine you cam range. If the 700 r4 is stock - if you hook the car up it wont live long, let the tires spin and it will do OK. Good read on factory 700r4 converters and different factory stall speeds https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/transmissions-drivetrain/719377-stock-torque-converter-stall.html
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