I have a few Questions about building a frame, Do most people have rear suspension or do you mount the rearend directly to the frame ? On the front axle I plant to use 40 Ford front end with split wishbone and a sucide perch but are tube axles allowed and coil over shots allowed ? ****tered Shield for 235 or 261 do you have to make a cover for the stock bail housing or can you buy a new shield ? on Brakes do most people use hand brakes or foot brake ? On the transmission, which is better a 3 or a 4 speed ? Rear Tires, about how tall are the tires that most people run ? Rearend gear ratio what do most people run ? I Plan on using 57 Chevorlate rear end. what is the average wheel base length, I am thinking about using 95 in wheel base, are most cars longer than this or not ? Stearing box, do most people mount these on the row bar underneath the cowl or on the frame ? I plan on using either Vega or Corver box, is one better than the other ? Machine work, is there anywhere in Tulsa that will balence that 6 cylinder ? any ideas on people who sell engine parts, mains, rods, bearings, rings, and cams ? any help with these questions would be appreciated Thank you.
1. in days of old, we'd smash you for asking such questions since they've all been answered numerous times, and the SEARCH ****on does work.......but I'll try and help you anyhow. Both have been done, but I think the faster cars are all rigid... Yes (even though we'll laugh at ya as they look ****) Yes you need a cover, you can either make from 1/4" plate, or buy an expensive ****tershield. most use foot, although there are benifits to making it hand operated, depends really on what you're comfortable with, and how you set things up Less is more (***uming the engine has sufficient Torque availible), I'd go a 3 speed (and I am). I'd suggest you save up and by a pair of L78x15's for the rear (28"), and some 4.5/4.75x16's for the front (about 25-6"). A few of us Aussies are running either 4.11's or 4.3's, and a couple are running about 3.85 again, we average around the 113-117", as whilst a bit 'visually long', helps smooth out the bumps in the track, and helps the steering stability, 95" is just to short to be going 100+MPH in my mind. A few of us here are basically using either VW kombi boxes, Suzuki LJ50 boxes, or early F100 boxes. No drama's, now do a search Cheers, Drewfus
There is another couple of websites to look at to get all the information. www.hambdrags.com and http://www.hot-rod.com.au/hambster/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189186
Best concept is to look over the cl*** rules, layout something simple along the lines of the cars already running, and learn as you go. Or.......throw all that out the window and be creative. Right now our car, (Rapid Rabbit, Wild Hare Racing's HA/GR) looks like it will come in around 110" wheelbase, looking at a pretty much one off ch***is design, and most parts are from the "what we can scrounge cheap, not what everybody else is using" category. Ch***is is based on a set of Ford "T" frame rails, front axle is Lincoln Zephyr, front suspension is going to be a single quarter elliptic spring to the center of the axle and rear suspension will be non-existent, (aka solid mounted). Power is planned on a warmed up 1934 Dodge 218" flathead six, feeding through a 1934 Dodge transmission, and our main goal is to keep the car light as pounds per horsepower is the name of the game. Don't be afraid to ask questions.......there are a lot of great people here who have a wealth of knowledge to share, but search and research for the basics and don't try and re-engineer the the wheel in the process. The whole purpose of this cl*** is to go back to the beginnings, race for fun, keep it simple, and live the dream. Sorry if I got a bit long winded here, but I have a real p***ion for this and look forward to running heads up against all who will stage next to me. I may not be the quickest, but I cut a mean tree, and it ain't the winning that really matters, it's that we are having fun and running how it was meant to be.
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