I have been thinking about building a roadster from scratch but most likely steel. I haven't quite decided on a model A or T. I am a broke college student and I have been interested in metal working for a while and now that I am in a panel fab. cl*** I have some knowledge and confidence to attempt something like this. Since I don't have tons of money to buy a cherry roadster to replicate what would you guys suggest? Should I buy some body I could afford which would most likely be a pile of rust and come in a convenient paper bag or should I buy one of those cheapo fibergl*** bodies? $469!
For a few hundred more, you can get a '26-'27 T shell. Better looking(my opinion), better proportions, and more room. Build the ch***is, etc, and later you can either find a steel body, or learn to form one from scratch, with the shell as a pattern.
true but I don't really know which direction I will take. Been thinking of doing a road racer early T. Basically I am looking for ways others have replicated a body. Could it be done just by accurate drawings?
If you have the skill to make a car from scratch, then you also have the skill to save the worst original 32-34 ford body you ever saw. I think it would be much smarter use of your time & talent. Good luck
Buy a fibergl*** roadster and do your best to replicate the Speed Sport Roadster. Ryan did an article on this thing once. You should see it in its original black guise... wow!!
Unless you are 5'-0" you won't like the '23 T, with the steering wheel straight up between your bent knees. Of course, millions of T Bucket fans would disagree!
I guess it depends on one thing, do you want a car to drive now or a project to build for a couple of years? If you want a car now, build what you can afford. Even if it is a ****ty gl*** body car. If you want a project fab it all yourself. Or better yet, build what you can now, and once driving start your steel project body, this way you get the best of both. A car to drive and the experience and satisfaction of doing all of your next car. Doc.
Ya that would ****. I always thought T-buckets looked lame and that is one reason. Definitley wont have a steering setup like that. Right now just getting ideas on building the body though. This car got around that problem with a belly pan. I think a 32 frame and a shallow pan might be enough to get rid of that.
Fibergl*** T bodies vary from completely useless to very high quality. And the price is proportional to the quality. At this last Fall Carlisle I looked over a T body at the booth for Kenny's Street Rods (I think...it's Kenny's something or other). It was a well built, thick body with a molded in floor, channeled, trans tunneled, one piece body. One of the nicer units I've laid eyes on. It was also stretched some ammount. I'd guess around 6-8 inches. The price was VERY reasonable at a mere $750 ($700 show special). If I had an extra $700 to spend, I would have bought it.
I want a steel body car I don't want to drive a fibergl*** car I just want to know if anyone has used a fibergl*** body to make a metal one? Or if it is even a good idea. I may be pretty naive but I don't think it will take years and years to build the body or the whole car for that matter. A 32 would be a lot more difficult that is one reason I am looking at a T or A. The other is I don't really want a 32.
Did some searching and couldn't find anything on this? Perhaps if it isn't much trouble you could throw me a clue?
find a cowl. you can usually find them pretty cheap. Then make the rest whatever dimensions suit you. It'll be half old, half new. Drive the **** out of it.
I looked and couldn't find the Jalopy Journal blog I was looking for. I have the original Hot Rod Magazine article at my house, I'll scan it for you. One of the all-time best. Rear-engined and powered by an injected Buick.
YES! I realize what I think and what I type and what people interpret from my chicken skratch typing is a bag of different stuff.
Oh now I see, If you want to do that find a body you REALLY want to work from. Though a good set of plan drawings may be all you need. There was a guy on the net that built a Cobra Daytona Coupe from drawings, all hand formed aluminium. It was/is breathtaking. I have some ideas on doing it without buying a body but it will take a fair bit of drawing and access to a steel body that you wont damage by using a pine gage on. I did some large scale aircraft components this way. If your interested let me know. Doc.
If you're gonna do a gl*** 26/27,try to find the most complete body you can...believe me, the difference between a $469 shell and a $750 better body is not that much..F/gl*** material,resin,adhesives,fillers,tools,supplies, etc.are EXPENSIVE!!!...plus you're gonna need a well ventilated space to work in....and ,gl*** dust created when grinding is a pain ,literally...it gets everywhere,itches like a MoFo... My advice to a "broke student" bent on building a T,would be to find someone selling a semi-finished Tbucket ...
Von, 184 has a dropped FRAME in the center, the belly pan is just to keep your feet from dragging. Gary
I know what you mean about having real parts in-hand vs. having just good measurements on drawings. An Example... I once ran across a website that promoted their cl***es (was it Lazzen?) and one of the cl*** ***ignments for half a dozen new guys in a 3 or 4 day cl*** was to make an aluminum 427 Cobra or Willys g***er body using the fibergl*** car as a pattern -- they did quite well in that short time. A Caveat... My only additional comment is to sit in something close to what you're thinking of before you put too much work into it. I once bought a '59 Willys truck ***-U-ME-ing that I would fit fine. Big mistake. I sold the truck recently. For Inspiration and Ideas... In Ron Champion's book "How to Build a Sprots Car for under $500 -- and race it...," a locost car constructin manual, there is a picture of the sweetest looking "Austin Special" (on page 8 maybe?). The book for the most part does NOT have traditional hot rods, but, whoa(!) that "Special" is definitely a 50s traditional road racer. I wish there was a whole a book dedicated to that one. I'd scan that page for you, but I've misplaced the book. Anyway, I thought it was worth buying the book for the bird-cage tube frame concepts covered. Good luck and keep us posted on wht you decide to do.
I'm currently building the back half of a rpu type body. I am NOT doing the bend square tube and skin it ****. I'm trying to build it to look like it might be factory. Factory looking and functioning doors, nice factory looking compound curves, body lines and all that fun stuff. Just take it piece by piece. If you just focus on each individual part its really not too daunting. Oh and a word of advise. Hammer forms. Lots of them. Basically, as I design each piece that's symmetrical from side to side(supports, jambs, door structure pieces, etc) I make a hammer form and a cardboard template for cutting pieces out, that way I know everything is the same side to side, structurally at least.
Wow, you're quick! Either that's it or its identical cousin. I seem to remember the one in the book being a bit greener, though. I know this is asking for a lot, but are there any details or build-up photos for that one?
They were two different cars. Greth, Fisher and Maynard used a carburated hemi. Later blown. Giampetroni (sp?) used a Buick. It was sponsored by Gratiot Auto Supply.
many times though parts can be so damaged that it is actually easier to just make it. With my budget this may be the whole car.
The Jalopy Journal
