I am building some cabinets for my shop in an effort to use the space alittle more effectively. I have a vertical air compressor and was wondering if I could make a cabinet that the compressor sits inside, would this cause heat problems? Could I frame in an enclosure and insulate it to cut down on the noise? What has better sound insulating qualities, fiberglass bats or styrofoam sheets? Another question for anyone who builds cabinets. I am building them out of 3/4 particle and using dadoes and rabbets as much as possible but there are some areas where I am using #8 1 3/4 wood screws (not drywall screws!) but I still get some of the endgrain splitting (even after pre-drilling) I realize that using joinery is the best way to go but I like the screws for this project as it really speeds up the construction, that I am not too concerned about the appearance of screws showing. Is there another method I can use to screw the particle board together with out it splitting? Thanks-
You can't run screws into the edge of particle board,and expect it to be strong. If you use solid wood blocks in the corners,you can screw through the particle board into the wood. Alot of the noise from a compressor is the sound of the air going in.Try to find an airfilter housing off some old carburated 4 banger,with a long tapered snorkel,and figure out how to make it work.
I used to work for a place that enclosed a compressor and it burned up. We had built a 6x6 compressor room and we ended up having to add vents and all kinda stuff to get it to cool. By the time we were done it wasn't any quieter. Mount it up towards the ceiling so you don't lose storage space on the ground.
[ QUOTE ] Air compressors need as much circulation as humanly possible. Pre-drill the holes for the screws. [/ QUOTE ] Dan, have to agree. Do you have a space OUTSIDE the shop where you could set the compressor up? Then enclose it with a shed with lots of ventilation and weather protection. Even if you live in a cold part of the country, most compressors can stand temps down to -30 deg. Or, if you have an attic above your shop, mount the compressor up there. Mine is in my attic. (frees up some space in the shop) Re: particle board for shelving; be careful, it does not have a lot of strength in "sheer." If you are going to the trouble of dattos (meaning a GOOD JOB) would suggest either plywood (yes a bit more expensive) or MDF (medium density fiber board) which has a paper facing that takes paint well and is a LOT stronger. Plus it doesn't tent to split as easily.
particle board is crap, the dust is nasty, it's about as strong as a graham cracker and it doesn't like moisture. I'm using regular framing materials and plywood throughout. I built a work bench last weekend that I can roll motors around on, it's "L" shaped, 2'-6" wide, 10'-0" along one wall and 8'-0" along the other, it's got 4x4 legs, a 2x4 ladder frame and it's topped with two layers of 2x6 car decking and on top of that I put 3/16" steel diamond plate. I am building shelves next using 2x4s and 3/4" plywood and hanging them from the rafters and collar ties and the 2x6 stud wall so there's plenty of clearance underneath for whatever. no doors and no drawers. I want hell for stout and I want to see where everything is. Paul
I'm a big fan of finding where someone is remodeling their kitchen and getting their old cabinets. If you have any buddies that work construction or remodeling they can usually find you some from either a demolition or remodel. The compressor outside thing is a must. make it a nice little roof and maybe something to keep the weather off but still getting plenty of air.
The cabinets are for storage, I already have two VERY stout workbenches. Think about your kitchen cabinets, all but the most expensive of them use particle board carcasses. All those plates and glasses and other dishes get pretty heavy, I think the strength comes more from the construction than the material. Biscuits could be an option, I did use dowels on the face frames but I think the best idea yet is to use blocks of wood to screw into, I think I will try that.
Finding old kitchen cabinets is very hard! I actually have a number of friends who are carpenters and old cabinets are almost immediately snatched up - pretty expensive at second hand stores too. I do have one old sheet metal pantry that is very handy. I also have a kitchen sink and base cabinet that I use for a parts washer, that is really handy too.
Man, I wish you were around here I'd bring you some of the ones I have sitting in the extra room of the shop. I guess I seem to attract them like flies. Oh well. Hopefully you can find some. One last hint, find someone that does custom cabinet work, see if they'll set the old ones aside for you when they putin new ones. Might work...
I'm surprised you don't see many metal cabinets in car guy's garages, I am a carpenter (commercial) by trade but I feel just as comfortable working with metal. seems like it would be a natural to bend up some sheet metal boxes or tack some angle and sheet togeter to make shelves and cabinetes. ................ I've also only had older houses with real wood cabinetry. I would sooner buy a fiberglass car then a particle board house. Paul
My Bro in law just built some for me. He's a professional Cabinet maker at a Custom woodworking shop here in town. He assembled them from Birch plywood scrap, fastened together with glue and adhesive nails from an air powered gun. The back of the cabinet is Masonite, set into a groove that runs around all side and top pieces, 1/2 inch in from the back edge of the sides. The Masonite panel helps keep the Cabinet "square" during installation BTW, plus it looks nice inside. Two 4" high pieces of 1/2" plywood are placed behind the Masonite and running from one side to the other, on top and bottom of each Cabinet unit. You attach the Cabinets to the wall by screwing thru the Masonite and those 4" plywood sections, (which are glued and gun nailed to the sides and bottom/top for strength) and on into the wall studs. All screw holes must be predrilled and the use of a level is very important! They are only 12" deep for head clearance but have adjustable shelves and loads of room. TOUGH as nails too! Don't compromise safety for saving a few bucks. Stuff tends to build up in Cabinets so build it overstrength from the beginning. Bill
I like to build bookcase style shelves out of 2 x 12's. I dado the verticals and pull them together with lag bolts in the predrilled holes. Makes a hell for stout shelf. On a long run, insert a 2 x 12 at the 1/3 - 2/3 or halfway point to help support heavy loads. Makes a seriously sturdy cabinet as well. I have one 8' tall cabinet about 18" wide made with the dadoed 2 x 12's. Door is a 1/2" piece of particle board hung with a 6' piano hinge. Made strong to support lathe chucks and the like on each shelf. The cabinet is tied to the wall with lag bolts and a large strap - earthquake safety. Making a cabinet from 3/4" birch veneer plywood isn't too much costlier than using regular plywood - with all it's voids, no voids in birch ply. Screwed and glued is the way to go. Use sheet metal screws instead of wood screws. They hold in wood way better than wood screws. The door can be 1/2" - 3/4" plywood. Hinged as you desire. I hang these to the wall studs with lag bolts. Sometimes I leave the back open if the garage wall is drywalled and sometimes a piece of 1/8" thick mahagony door skin cut to fit the back. 1/4" hardwood plywood at $10. or so a sheet is a good backing as well. There are places that specialize in selling lockers like you'd find in a gym or on the job. Six footers work well and shelving is easy if you install the multi-hole strips that take the steel adjustable shelf clips. Changes later on are easy if you have a change of heart. A 16' long or longer 2 x 12 up high along the top area of the garage studs sitting on 2" wide x 3/8" thick home-made aluminum brackets lagged into the studs on the inside and the outside supported by 1" square tubing and a lag bolt on the shelf end is handy for seldom used items. The top end of the 1" sq tubing goes through the ceiling drywall - if any - and through bolts to the ceiling joists. Provided the joists are strong enough and most times they are cuz the shelves aren't hung too far out from the wall. One of these 2 x 12 shelves over the garage door - if you have room - works well too.
[ QUOTE ] The cabinets are for storage... Think about your kitchen cabinets, all but the most expensive of them use particle board carcasses. All those plates and glasses and other dishes get pretty heavy, I think the strength comes more from the construction than the material. [/ QUOTE ] Depends on what you plan to store. After having a shelf of auto parts collapse, you might re-think using particle board. Sure you can support the hell for poor material (a lot more work) or you might just like the peace of mind using some better materials that require a lot less work. I have built cabinets for both my shop and my home, and I wouldn't touch PARTICLE BOARD with a TEN FOOT POLE!!
as said already: build for intended use and conditions, a light weight cabinet is fine for just that- light weight storage if you plan on storing (or might store) heavy stuff make it stout, and if you live in earthquake prone areas like some of us do make it so the heavy stuff doesn't fall on your (insert important item here) if you are commited to using particle board a good polyurethane glue like Gorilla Glue and a pin nailer may work better than screws.
Here is the cabinet (before paint) I built for my welder and other larger tools . It has two shelves (bottom one high enough to roll the welder under and the tank sits infront). The next shelf is about chest high... The very top is about 5 inches below the siding so I can store seldom used things out of the way and not see them.. maybe you could build something similar and install a fan at the top to draw out the heat or put a vent to the outside if it is on the outer wall.
Since the subject is shop and I am proud of my freshly cleaned garage I will post another pic of it.. (moved most of the junk from the above pic to another wall to have room in front of the car.
Boones, how do you keep it so clean? where's all the piles of junk?! I can't seem to throw anything away and it just keeps piling up! Paul
Dan, My home shop (30'x36') has all home built work benches w/sliding doors to conceal all of my tools, welder, torch, steel materials, etc. I also built an office, and a small room that contains the Frig, stereo, speakers and my 6' tall 5HP compressor. Since my shop is 10' tall inside, I built this and the office 7' tall to allow for storage on top. All construction was done in a conventionable style of 2x4 frame work. This picture is looking toward the compressor/cold beer area which is on the left side of this picture.... Glenn
Dan....here is another view, my shop is 4 years old, the walls, ceiling, benches are all semi-gloss white, and I coated the floor in "Cloud White". With 12 double 8' lights, it's major bright in here.
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