Projects Building My First Roadster in San Francisco

Now I wish I would have done that instead of going through the frame rail. Any ideas to support the center of the tube from deflection while going down the bumpy streets of SF? It looks short enough to not need it but definitely couldn't hurt. It also appears that you can slide the radiator out with out disturbing the tube and having to bleed the brakes again if the radiator ever needs a service. Very nice.

 

Nice solution.

 

Looking good. Also keep in mind you can make a quick 90 with another fitting instead of trying to force a mega tight bend in the line. Just something to ponder.

 

Is your drag link going to rub on the bottom of the flex hose?
Warren

 

Looks good, if you can get a wrench everywhere you need.
You could add a square lump under the junction so it doesn't pivot and twist the lines.
As mentioned, you want to be able to service the radiator without breaking open the brake system. Have the cross line high enough to allow the radiator hose fittings to slip under and out, or go under them.

 

Maybe I’ve missed it, but what is the reason for using those style tie rod ends? It appears you have heaps of room between tie rod and wishbone.

 

ripper, I'm not J and he didn't discuss this that I recall, but I'd assume the bend in the tie rod is used to tuck between the balancer and the pulley, shown here. It looks like it is about the same distance back. It also looks like they are curved up to clear the wishbone. Things are tight in this area.

 

I’m referring to the ends. Are they dropped ends flipped? Which in turn would put the rod closer up into the 59 pulley and cause the brake hose to rub or make contact. Maybe I’m seeing it wrong? From a photo posted above there looks to be a ton of room between the tie rod and wishbone. A little flame to those spindle arms and standard tie rod ends and have that tie rod just hover the wishbone would make all the difference in the world. Again, unless I’m seeing it all wrong.

 

looks like it has to fit between the frame and the wishbone, which moves with the tie rod.
Found this shot a few pages back. Maybe an inch or so?

 

It does NOT tuck between pulley


and there is a fairly tight fit to the wishbone.

 

@RodStRace @j ripper I think this is the photo you two want to be using for reference. Everything else from the above correspondence is an angled shot, which is deceptive. The below picture Joey posted gives a much more accurate idea of the space below to the wishbone and above to the frame.

 

One of the coolest aspects of the HAMB is that you don't even have to be present to have ongoing collaboration on your project. It is just part of the deal here.
Great progress! Sleeping on a problem is a real thing. Many problems solve themselves when we leave them alone for a while.

 

To my eyes, the spindle arms seem to be dropped a lot more than they need to be, with dropped tie rod ends being flipped to add some height back in.

 

@Speedy Canuck exactly the photo I was referring to.

 

Maybe it works different in reality; but it seems to me that with the dropped ends mounted upright the tie rod could move fore and aft a fair amount on ball ends vs hanging down and kept in line by gravity.

 

In all reality I’m not remembering if he ever mentioned his thought processs but as there is no steering box it’s just as likely that he just wanted the tires to hold together so he bolted that shit on.

 

You don't have to worry about getting the spindles too hot as long as they slow cooled. I did my steering arms several times to get them just right. The bushings on the other hand will not like it and will need to be replaced.

 

That taking it apart and putting it back together is something that I kind of touched on in the thread
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...aesthetically-pleasing.1304622/#post-15040752
with it being not only functional and pleasing, but serviceable. Also mentioned it in post 3310.
When you take stuff apart and put it back together, you end up thinking 'how can I make this easier' and that ends up being a mindset that influences using the same size bolts, clearance for a wrench or socket set and the hand that holds it, not having a blind pocket that stuff drops into, and having enough room around the part so it can be removed without other unrelated things requiring removal too.

There was a bike builder a while back that make very smooth, simple-looking bikes, but the effort to hide stuff required monkey puzzle mechanical parts. It was very pleasing on initial viewing, but it was later a disappointment, because 'simple' was really much more complex and it was more about the look than the required mechanical and maintenance needs. It was the equivalent of a custom with welded skirts and hood to smooth out the cut lines, but requires dropping the axle to change a tire or an engine drop to adjust the carb.

 

Great stuff, Joey! Keep it goin'!

 

Why do I see all this talk about a 9 inch clutch? That's a 59 engine, they came stock with a 10 inch clutch or 11 inch for trucks. 39 to 40 came with the 9 inch.

 

Well if you’d read all the talk about a 9 inch clutch you’d know that Joey just found out an 11” clutch doesn’t clear his 39 trans.


He put it in his chassis, tried to fire it up and it wouldn’t spin and at all. It’s the answer to a problem being sorted out.

 

But a 10 inch will clear and that's what came on the 59 engine. Why go backwards with a 9 inch?

 

I think it was a separate post but he took a poll of first hand experience using a 9 and 10” clutch with a motor similar to his. Using people’s actual first hand experience in the comments he picked the 9 over the 10 ( and at the time 11 )

edit, found it I guess it was about the 11 but the info cropped up there for his choice there either way I guess.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/who-has-a-flathead-ford-with-an-11-clutch.1297136/

 

Looking for hot rod or stock ford?