Projects Building My First Roadster in San Francisco

Any idea what thread sizes each of those are?

 

The cable ends should be regular GM sizes and I think a ca3002? cable would work, unless the speedometer needs the male thread on that side of the cable. They are pretty cheap at the local parts stores. I'll check the part numbers when I get to work in a little while.

 

Check with Rusty @e1956v at Speedometer Service. He will handle the cable issue. Plus he is an Alliance Vendor. And regarding the wire, make sure it's all copper not aluminum clad copper. Don't ask me how I know.
Speedometer, Generator And Alternator Repair In Colorado Springs

Edit: make that copper clad aluminum not aluminum clad copper. Brain fart before the morning coffee.

 

I can definitely get you going on that cable, I'd be happy to be a part of your build Joey. Just need an overall length.
Thanks for the mention as always @51504bat

 

Shit hard to like that.

where did your existing cylinders come from? I’d be curious to see where they are leaking from once you pull the hub/drum and can see what’s happening

 

Dang man, good on you for pushing on, I imagine “mech brakes don’t leak” has run though your head lately!

 

Brand new washers don’t need annealing, only already crushed ones do so they soften back up after being work hardened. I am surprised that the brakes are giving you so much trouble, you have done everything meticulously. I wonder if when putting the return spring on that the shoe web is cutting into the dust boot or forcing the piston seal to get damaged some how. The spring is heavy but care must be taken when clipping it in place

 

Joey, that looks like it's spot faced for a washer, but maybe hold it against a glass slide or similar small flat surface to check. Also finger tighten the hose and make sure it threads deep enough to have a smaller gap than the washer.

 

I'll chime in on the wheel cylinder issues.

First off, the issue is that the castings are not machined correctly on a lot of the reproduction wheel cylinders. You can find more info on this if you search. But the major issue seems to be the port where the fluid enters the cylinder.

I have used just about every cylinder on the market.

Raybestos is what I use. Never had an issue with one. Period. Napa I do believe is the same. But more $$$.

I do have a set of customer supplied third gens that are holding. But have not been driven on yet. And I'll be honest, I was not super impressed when I opened them. They look like the same that you get from any early ford parts supplier.(I've installed thousands of wheel cylinders, so my standards may be high) But as long as they hold. I'll be happy.

Centric is another brand I've had good success with.

 

Like almost all "vintage" parts today there are a lot more sellers than makers. Easy example Dura- Bond in Carson City makes more than 90% of the cam bearings sold in the US no matter what name is on the box. Even your favorite old brands. With cast parts it is more likely that one company supplies rough castings to several places that do the machining. It is also possible that like the vintage firearms import business some lower priced companies get seconds.

 

I am****uming the surface where the plug is is where you're connecting your brake line end. While it looks like a "flat" surface, to me it doesn't look like it's been spotfaced for the washer. This is going by what I have seen on disc brake calipers. Most of the time you can see annular grooves from the machining. Interesting for something this old it's a fitting sealed at the hose end fitting body vs inverted flare but I am by no means an expert.

 

I think there are at least 4 if not 5 different manufacturers of early ford wheel cylinders

 

Wonder if there is an easy way to check that spot for flatness and if it’s if off spot fix it by hand.

 

It not only needs to be flat, it has to be 90* to the threads for the banjo bolt, so I don't think that is a job that can be done by hand!

 

just loosen the banjo a bit and jam a feeler gauge around a couple spots

 

Anything that can be fixed can be fixed by hand. It depends on whose hands.

 

If you can, put each wire in, route it, make your bundles and leave a bit extra for each end. Once satisfied, then terminate the ends and connect. If you do one end then start from that hard point, you fight things a bit more and can easily end up with a slightly short wire. This can't always be done, but just keep in mind a little extra wire is easier to fix than one that's a little short.

 

Man thats one collapsed wheel cylinder. At least the problem was obvious. Still pretty*****ty :/

 

As an aside, brake fluid washes off with water. I like to take the garden hose, a big brush and some soap to the wheel after getting a drum off and wash most of the fluid away before proceeding further.

Of course this is best done outside on a warm day!

 

Certainly discouraging but a whole lot better now than on the road somewhere in Hong Kong, Switzerland.... I believe a critical post mortem, disassembled look at that wheel cylinder is in order along with a good look at the new ones prior to installation....
stay strong

 

A smooth, round bore and a rubber lipped seal. Pretty simple, almost every one is going to be the seal is not good since it's not a huge leak (seal lip folded). Bore could have issues or junk in there, but those tend to leak more too.