Projects Building My First Roadster in San Francisco

Joey, I run a Mr. Gasket 42S fuel pump on the inside of the firewall between the fuel shut off and sediment bulb. It's rated at 2-3.5psi but I think that's wishful thinking as it runs fine on the Holley 94 with out a regulator. I'll flick you a pic of the setup through next time I walk past the car.

 

Fuel pressure regulators should be as close to the carburetor as possible, I like to replace the original fuel filter /water separator with a Malpassi Filter King, they do not look out of place and work well on a Model A .
Vintage hot rods deserve a vintage Autopulse pump, and a very vintage looking Malpassi regulator.
I have had issues with the Holley regulator keeping constant pressure, they are all over the place when you are down to 2.5 lbs for 97s, however 94s are not so sensitive as 97s and can run OK at 3 or even 4 pounds.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/autopulse-fuel-pumps.793438/
Do you read the Monthly Banger threads? Lots of great stuff there. Here is one where we discussed carburetors and filters etc.
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum...anger-thread-hot-august-nights.1159461/page-2

https://www.carburettorshop.com/con...ssi_Fuel_Filters_and_Pressure_Regulators.html

 

if i ever buy another one, i will buy the one with the pressure gauge attached... like $10 more... errrrr!

 

Concerning the YOM plates....when I wanted a later plate on a car I would get personalized plates that match the number on an old set of plates and run the old plates.

 

Great Idea! Nevada has so many different plates a cop would never know. If you carried the personalized plates with you I doubt you'd ever run into a cop dick headed enough to cause problems unless you'd been dickly enough to deserve it.

 

Tried that once when you still had to fill out a form in person for custom plates. Lady behind the desk looked at me like I was a martian.

But that a lot of that is online (it was back in IA and is here in TX) that would be a great solution.


I always just ran the vintage plates and made sure to keep my registered plates in the car. I've never been stopped for it. Never even been asked about it by anyone other than people at cruise ins or shows.

I really like the idea of plates that match the build if the car rather than the year if the car.

Lastly this roadster is so freaking cool I can't stand it.

-Adam

Sent from my rotary phone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app

 

The power (Battery) terminal should be wired directly to the battery with a fuse/fusible link or a cutout. In my opinion it should be 8 gauge wire or bigger. It shouldn't be wired through the ignition switch or even to the hot wire as you have it.... that way all the current is going through the single wire. The relay is actually redundant.
The whole idea of the relay is that it powers the lights without any (very little ) voltage drop.

Have you missed a step in the circuit, ( dip switch) ? The switch you have is normally used as a park lights and headlights switch. So that the first step lights the park lights and tail lights and full out is for the headlights. The headlight wire would then go to the dip switch, and from there to either of the relay activating terminals. The dipswitch will handle much more current than the panel switch you are using.
I think what may be happening is that you are powering both high and low beam at the same time when you have the switch full out, thereby drawing double the current!

Also have you run earth /ground wires back from the terminals on the lamps themselves all the way to the chassis or are you relying on the ground running through the buckets,headlight bar etc? I always run a separate ground right back to a known good ground on the chassis as near as possible to the battery/frame/engine
ground point.

 

Using matching # plates works here in ME.
but you must have "both" the modern plates with reg. stickers in the car...
i think they fear that you and a buddy 5 towns away were using the same plates...
compared to the others like the Aussies we have it made in the shade..

 

Good use of your vintage Boy Scout pocket knife

 

The Zipper is registered as a 1999 home built in CO. Ordered personalized plates that match the '27 plate number. I put the annual sticker on the '27 plate. Even though the colors aren't even close to being correct, I've never had any problems. In fact, I got a parking ticket!

 

So if you look at the original diagram for the relay, it has depicted a foot operated, Hi/Lo beam switch...
remember when they weren't on the turn signal switch? It breaks one circuit and makes the other.
Does your headlight switch do that?
I'm wondering if both filaments are powered on hi beam (maybe low beam too) and that is why your switch is getting hot.
Maybe substituting the relay in the circuit is powering the two coils (I'm guessing that is the way the relay is configured) and you substituted the current draw of the headlamps for the draw of the relay coils if both powered at the same time?
Long distance troubleshooting is difficult.
As for a short....a short to ground makes smoke and or sparks....tremendous, immediate voltage loss and high amperage....fuse blowing wire melting stuff.
You are describing heat from current draw for more than the switch can handle
Unhook the wires for the high beam and operate low beams check outcome
Then do the same for the high beams powered with the low beam wires unhooked....evaluate

Good luck

 

For sure check the ground for the lights. A really bad ground is like turning off the switch. Poor grounds can have huge resistance which is how electric heaters work.

 

Mmmm, I think that's what I suggested yesterday.

Dip switch = hi /lo beam switch, as far as I am concerned they are all foot operated, you must drive some sort of a modern spacecraft, and you say if it is combined with the other switch ? , which I have no knowledge of!

 

I have a few pictures of my roadster on the side of the road. It does suck but just remember what you started with not too long ago.

 

Many great hot rod stories start on the side of the road. Be grateful that you began many stories so close to home.

 

I broke the tip on my Lone Ranger pocket knife prying a burnt fuse out of an over drive relay. Probably not as good as the boy Scout knife.

 

My YOM plate are kinda close to original colors. Best part about them is in Nebraska you only have to register the plates to your car one time. They're good forever with no annual fees to pay.....ever! I don't buy them unless I can get both plates so no worries about some stroker having the same plate # as me.
I keep my registered plate with the big ugly registration sticker on it in a pocket on the back of the seat. Been driving the car 3 years without ever being stopped. In fact, I know a few of our local cops and they always wave.

 

I just finished rebuilding my blast cabinet.

By the time you return, I will have the front backing plates all cleaned up.

If you don't already have tears from Pocket Nick, I will roll down and grab those.

 

Do they still run the electric busses that use those overhead cables? When I was a kid SF had more kinds of public transportation than ant city I was ever in.
Somewhere in my piles I have some of the old cloth wire loom material. I got it when I worked at CarQuest.

 

Yup, just newer models.

We still have most of those kinds of transportation.

 

It was magical place for a kid from the Texas Panhandle where we didn't even have french bread or dry salami.

 

How did you ever survive without these staples?