Projects Building My First Roadster in San Francisco

Haha , just a wind up really! You are correct about the "modern" parts , but I was only really referring to the frame, and the grille. Shifter position looks like maybe a T5 to me but that is hidden really and the wheels etc, are OK . I like the car a lot and have no real complaint ( each to his own ), just reinforcing my thoughts to Joey about his future plans.

 

I am pretty observant but I am surrounded by some extremely Eagle Eyed Hambers many who've been in this game way before my exposure to all of this...let's just say it's inspired for numerous reasons much like my Sport Coupe...I'm always in admiration of those who try to lean Hardcore Traditional... but many miss the mark for unseen details and many times visible ones...

 

@Stogy . I am only a new kid on the block, still a learner always will be ....I got my RPU in 1968, (it's still here) but I learned to drive and started learning about and working on Model As with my Dad's Tudor and his mates RPU about 1963/64.

I have some 29 sport coupe parts here which were supposed to be a roadster when they came my way.. I have added some other parts and I fully intend copying your roof and back panel! I like it!

 

Thanks @97 I was just moving on from Tonka toys in 68...

Hamber @Koz was responsible for the postwar Aviation inspired top... @HomemadeHardtop57 was the Hamber who envisioned and built the Hotrod...2nd owner @voodoo twin had a hand I believe in the rear fenders and a few other things...I guess I'd say bring it on and we are all honored...

 

Funny it's seems like we're all here waiting for @J.Ukrop to show up with more good Ole Hotrod stories...

 

Bah, mufflers, baffles are in ...Job done! Moving on!

Brakes are supposed to get warm, even hot if they are being used , maybe the others need to be adjusted up a bit to even up the temperatures and wear them all in evenly rather than back the one off and find that it takes a month of Sundays to get the wear in done and ready for the working adjustment , don't glaze them though, it's a fine line.

 

Joey,
You asked about the backfire..
Out the carb, lean
Out the exhaust, rich
But it is going to be kind of difficult to do a final tune with the open header.
Hope you didn't jump to far when it did it, the unexpected one can be a heart stopper or make your girl jump into your lap....
Keep on having fun

 

Backfire = over rich when letting off, coupled with an exhaust that allows air in (very short/no exhaust behind header or big leaks) while exhaust is still hot, igniting the mixture. This is going to happen with carbs, due to the sudden closing of the throttle causing a high vacuum signal, drawing more fuel and closing off air.
A long sealed exhaust will be a big help (but not roddy), other 'solutions' done by OE mfgrs are
1. a decel valve, allowing added air into the intake under decel conditions (a kinda poor solution that often failed)
2. decel diaphragm, which slowed throttle return (makes the throttle response when letting off terrible)

 

Part of the magic of driving old cars is the way they open other people up. If you'd been taking a picture of your Prius in front of the house he probably wouldn't have said anything. If you had not complemented the house the moment would have ended. So many special moments are lost because we are less open with those around us. It didn't used to be that way. Everyone has a story and some are worth hearing.

 

It might be just me, but I would have asked for a tour!

 

Probably has his dad's pre-war dry lakes car stashed in there.

 

AND ain't they great, AV8 drivers just don't know what they are missing . Have you ever heard the saying '
"Nothing beats a Model A across the intersection". Wasn't until around 1938 39 that V8 powered cars were regularly beating bangers at the dry lakes. These days it can be the whole quarter as displayed at the RPM nationals a couple of years ago by @530sandman when he raced the fastest blown flathead there.
I think I posted this before but here goes anyway.

 

That banger screams!

 

Imagine what it will do when he puts a blower on it!

 

Joey, I know this isn't the way you are going to go with your banger, but this is some magnificent eye candy to be appreciated, it belongs to a friend of mine here in Seattle.

 

Owned my panhead since 72 and the roadster since 08, leaks let you know there not out of oil.

 

Didn’t A’s have intentional leaks in that area? The engine not the rear

 

Joey, Get on the Ford Barn and search "Model A engine leaks"
There is gobs of info on this over there.
Just a FYI, when you run bigs and littles the engine side of the torque tube is sloped toward
the trans. In a stock A it's sloped toward the rear end. One leak might also be from this.
There is a fairly easy fix, a "C" shaped seal of sorts that gets placed in the
bottom of the torque tube close to the front,
to prevent the axle oil from traveling out the end.

 

Joey,
Always happy to see you driving. I know that it is therapeutic for me and it tells to be for you as well. We need to get the confidence up in your equipment.
For the brake adjustment, there is a procedure that may have been missed in the brake set up that will help with the pulling to one side.
Basically, all the service brake rods are hooked together...think about it the travel needs to be equidistant on all corners or one brake assembly is applying sooner or later than others. Coordination of arrival at the same time....mmmm
With the brake pedal all the way in the 'not braking' retracted position...you may need to affix it all the way out there. I use a bungee cord or tarp strap to hold it there.
Unhook the brake rod at the levers at the front. Push the lever all the way forward. With the lever all the way forward, the mechanical advantage is the greatest. The clevis pin should just slip in (and out) with the lever in this position. The rod may be too long or too short (usually short). The clevis is threaded on the rod. Adjust the clevis position on the rod until the length is obtained that this happens. Also while you are at it, move the lever back and forth while the clevis is off and kind of get a feel where the resistance starts...that is where the wedge is starting to move the shoes out towards the drum. Compare that in all wheel positions.
If there is a lot of travel on the fronts, there is a cup shim that can be placed on the rod that travels thru the king pin to lengthen it. I.ve also been known to gas weld a bit of length onto the push rod to lengthen it. You may need to add extension to the brake rods too, I have, but they should be forge welded for safety factor. Also pay attention to slop or play in all the linkages. Worn mechanical connections in the brake components are travel where no braking action is happening. There are aftermarket parts available to help with this if need be.
Anyway...adjust all 4 corners so that all the brake linkages start traveling from the same position.
I hope that I explained this in an understandable way but if you eliminate slop and free play along with having the braking action start at the maximum leverage, you can lock up all 4 in a hard braking application.
Also Henry had the brakes set up with more braking on the rear than the front....kind of opposite of what you know about modern iron.
Why? So the back end would be less apt to pass the front end on a slick braking situation a low tech 'ABS'
Good luck and keep playing...it's a process .....oh... and to be 28 years old again....

 

HOT ROD HOOLIGAN WITH NO FENDERS OR MUFFLERS TERRORIZES PEACEFUL SAN FRANCISCO RESIDENTS!