Projects built lots of cars, but never a 32 roadster...

Man Scott, you do nice work! Yeah, that stuff is heavy but it works.

 

Okay - I just bench bled my third master cylinder and guess what? It's leaking out back from the piston - WTF? How do these guys stay in business? That's my second master cylinder from Tuff Stuff and they both leaked out the piston.

Just to confirm that I'm not doing anything wrong and somehow not seeing it -
1. I'm putting the master cylinder on the bench with the flange higher than the front so that bubbles don't get trapped in the front.
2. When I bled the brakes and pumped the first master cylinder, fluid shot up out of one side of the master cylinder - this is an indication that pressurized fluid is pushing/leaking from one side of the piston to the other.
The 3rd MC is pushing fluid up from the hole one one side while bench bleeding (not under pressure). Does that mean this MC is also bypassing fluid past the piston from one side to another?

 

A small spurt of fluid is to be expected as the cup seal passes the port. If you are pushing hard and fast, as is most likely when doing it on the bench (where you don't have the controlled mechanical advantage, unless you've been very clever and rigged some lever arrangement up) the spurt can be considerable. If yours able to do it slowly and gently the fluid still needs to move just the same ( volume), but without the geyser effect.

Chris

 

But, should NEVER leak out past the piston end.

 

I have buddies coming over and we're putting the body on tonight...
I bought a new cowl seal from Steele Rubber - seems softer than the Vintique one I already have. It is still considerably wider than the groove in my cowl (where it rises).
If I stretch the seal, it fits fine, but that thins it out (to the point where it doesn't fill the gap between the firewall and the cowl). I can "pop" it in, but it's tough to get it to comply all the way around.

What say you on how to do this?

 

Last pics of it before body goes on

 

Now that it's ready to go together, would it be easier to remove the firewall from the frame and seal it to the body/cowl?
Then lift everything on to the chassis, resecurring the firewall to frame loosely, first while body is shimmed for door gaps, etc.

 

No, there's no way to hold the firewall into the body while doing that operation... Besides, it still doesn't solve the problem of how I get the seal into the groove on the firewall - it's too wide

 

None of the cowl band seals on the market seem to be a perfect fit. I have carefully sanded one down before so it would fit and not cause the cowl to be spaced outward. You can also squeeze a bead of windshield urethane on the gasket to take care of possible leaks before you lower the body over it.

 

I just reviewed some of the firewall discussion on page 6, July 14, 2022.

 

Use bolt holes @ top for @ hinge bracket
& firewall to cowl , & also clamp near cowl feet, if you like .
The gasket takes some time to get into the firewall ,,

 

Thanks to the guys who gave me advice - a few who have built a lot of 32 Fords said to cut some off the back edge of the seal.
Using a straight edge and a razor blade, I cut about 1/16" off the back edge of the seal it popped right in the grove.
I then put a couple drops of soap and water on a wad of paper towels and soaped the seal...the cowl slipped right on to the seal
For those who think that you can spread the bottom of the cowl out enough to get the little bronze feet over the top of the cowl, think again. I had another big guy helping me and we couldn't spread it enough to get it over the cowl. We ended up pushing it forward while lifting about 6 inches.

 

Congrats!

 

Progress!

 

Got all the engine accessories on - all ready to go. The steering column support/ mount too.

 

On the day I was going to install the windshield, Thursday, I broke it. It's been in my bedroom closet this whole time and I knocked it over - crack!
The glass people around me here are quoting crazy prices - how much should I have to spend on a new piece of glass for this?
I was looking around on the internet - my windshield has a 2-inch chop but if I could buy a standard windshield and just have them cut it down, that may be the less expensive option.

 

The windshield is flat safety glass. I've had it done at the local glass shop, that also does auto glass. They always had the material in stock , although I've heard window glass has been in short supply at times the last couple years.

I had a friend with a Roadster traveling through my area, his windshield had broken the day before. The glass shop got him in and out before 10 AM.

 

My shop in town cut one from my template for $85. What price did you get from ur shop?

 

The last time I had a windshield cut it was from Binswainger, a chain glass shop. Laminated 1/4”. I think it was a couple hundred bucks…more than I thought it should be but it was quick and I needed it. And that was 6 years ago?

 

I had a 32 closed car windshield cut (more curves than your open car) about 3 years ago and I think it was about $100. Easier than door glass since the edges don’t have to be sanded perfect. I provided a template and did all the installation.

 

In last 6 months ,
(My area) If a shop ,glass in inventory and willing to do $250-350 range
(front 32 )
Also for a 32 5 w,
Several Venders are getting Glass form Diamond, glass is 1/8 inch to short all the way around , especially a problem quarter glass with gasket .

 

$325 in Exeter, NH... LOL

 

Did you use setting tape, or adhesive?

 

I used setting tape. Installed it myself. Not difficult.

 

A small strip of setting tape close to the corners just to keep the glass in the center of the groove. Bedded it in 3M windshield urethane, then also more around the gap after the corner screws were tight.

 

That's kind of what I was thinking, but that sounds impossible to remove if it breaks again.

 

won't be easy I would also suspect.

 

If you just use the fabric setting tape it will leak. But that’s not much concern on a roadster. Do as you may.

 

I want to hear all methods, pros & cons, so I do it right (once) and not regret my method. regardless of the leakage possibility, I don't think water sitting in the frame's channel is a good idea.
All input appreciated.

 

Anyone know of a plug that can temporarily fill this hole (until I save up 3 grand for a Bop Top and need it) ?