Projects built lots of cars, but never a 32 roadster...

Start here:
https://www.google.com/search?clien...HTgzDb4Q0pQJegQIDhAB&biw=1280&bih=800&dpr=1.5

 

One of those rubber plugs used in brake drum adjuster slots? May come in a variety of sizes?

 

Have you tried the plug from a rear backing plate?

 

Hardware store
You have a 3d printer

 

I’m assuming that the aforementioned son ( child that is) happens to be your project supervisor? Right?

 

Not at all, he's 12 and it's hard to keep his attention on this project (unless the task involves polishing, then he's on it)

 

It's interesting what you respond to.

 

For sure, Tuff Stuff sent me a kit with all new internal parts... going to try and rebuild it. That's a new one for me, hope it works (no leaks).

 

How in the world do these make love?
Doesn't seem to be a clear place for the rubber deck lid seal to live...

View attachment 5772273

 

Like this?

 

That makes sense to me. What happens to the water when it get to the bottom of that channel?

How does the rubber stick to the ridge? Two side tape or sticky black stuff?

 

Im sure there is no seal originally,
( @ least I have not seen ""Original"")
Just Rubber bumpers , @'top for rumble
Bottom for deck / Trunk,
Water runes down channel ( Original) in trunk /roll pan then out drain holes,,
But you can make catch can
( end of drip rails One each side) then route hose to drain holes
As you can see a """32 "" not like other cars

 

No seal originally. At the bottom channel, make a drain hole with tube attached to direct liquid out under the body.

 

Yup, no seal.

 

Thanks y'all - I had Brookville installed the little drains at the bottom of the channels.
This is a great thread on the topic:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/32-trunk-lid-seal.965178/
From that, I gathered that there is no seal originally, but thought this might be a good add-on.
Steele Rubber products are typically pretty nice. This, however is a boggler.
It's too short to put in the channel (would not contact the trunk lid)... And there's no place to put it on the deck lid.

 

I would call it a dust seal or weather seal. Rain is well channeled away by the trough and weep holes.

 

FYI, here's how far you get with one box of Kilmat sheets from Amazon:


I was very efficient with my usage and this is all that's left, small scraps

 

I won't buy KILMAT because it is made in Russia!

 

Wow, never knew that.

 

China are bad guys too...and you're on a computer or phone made there, I'm just sayin'

 

Need your experienced opinion:

Put radiator in grille shell on a bench, then install on car

OR

Put radiator on car, then install grille shell?

Both have their own pros & cons

 

Radiator on car first. Don’t know how or why you would do it differently.

 

Ditto

 

Thanks, guys!
When I was mocking everything up, I always assembled the shell to the radiator on the bench, then put it on the car. Was easy to get the shell on the rad, but was really hard to get the bolts into the frame

 

^^^^^^More easy to jack up front end ,let axle extend down ward ( leaves of springs)
1/4 5 inch long Extension with wobble socket , ( nut underneath )

Easier to install Rad & then Shell

 

Figured you something that I didn't know...
The slot in the hood hold down's lower bracket is not symmetrical from left to right, more distance to outside...

 

Getting closer...

 

I need some advice on getting everything aligned. The body bolts are all in, but not tightened (washer under bolt heads is loose).
The bolts on the brands brackets at the end of the cowl are also in, but loose.

The passenger side door gap is actually perfect, the driver side is a little off. The hood fits miserably.

Where do I start and what should I attack- tighten up and/or shim first? Is there a preferred order on how to tighten the body bolts down, how about the other components such as the radiator?

Thanks in advance ~

 

The way I've done it: get the body bolted down and shim etc as necessary for the doors. Ignore the hood. Once happy with body set grill to correct height and measured distance for hood tops and sides. Fit hood and tweek to fit ( rad up / down, left right, tilt forward / back. The rearward corner bumpers on the hood sides do a great job of determining the gap to the cowl. I'm not aware of any particular ' tricks'. Some assemble the hood completely and offer up. I've found just doing the tops first followed by the sides work for me. Helps if the side rods will go in fairly easily. Even better with one of those hood side caddy things pre installed on the cowl to rad rods. All not as daunting as it sounds, especially as I tend to overthink and overcomplicate things!!

Chris

Chris