Projects built lots of cars, but never a 32 roadster...

Also looking for advice on a hose to bypass the port on the Zip's riser/6 cyl water pump port.

The instructions say to run it to a fitting between cylinders, but I have 463 casting heads and there's no port there. Was planning on running it to the heater hose port on the intake.

Thoughts?

 

@HOTRODPRIMER , any suggestions for the post above this one?

 

Saw your post about the trunks seal. Maybe some one has already answered but 32 Fords did not use trunk or door seals. For the water that gets into the rear trunk trough I seal the ends and put drainage tubes in the channel through the floor. I get the body adjusted with the proper door gap then tackle the hood. I give it a try and get it as close as possible. I hate to see the radiator sitting on a bunch of shims to make the hood fit. On the 100's of deuce chassis I built over the years I always dropped the crossmember 3/8 in inch from the top of the rails. It seemed to make fitting the hood simpler? For my last 6 or 7 deuces we've built I have gotten so anal about hood fit I try to mount the radiator as low as it can sit with minimal gap between the shell and the frame. Then I get the hood as close as possible and ad or subtract metal from all sides of the hood as needed to get the right gap. Lots of work but worth it to me.

 

Get A Wescott Auto Restyling book and look at it for fitting body, hood, grille, etc.
step by step
From Boring, Oregon..

 

Gates #18701

 

Here’s what I’ve done.
Hopefully this helps.

 

Thanks for another option - where do you have that hose going? It looks like it passes the coolant passage I had planned on using (see Joe Blow's post above).

 

Was looking for hood corner bumpers and saw this kit from Dennis Carpenter - Should I use "center hood stop brackets" and these bumpers ?

 

That’s pic is from my Tudor build and it is routed to a heater.

 

The two round bump stops attach to “L” brackets that are on the frame rail at about center of hood. Never see anyone use them especially on an aftermarket frame without fenders. If you use, you’ll need the L bracket and need to drill/tap hole in frame rail to mount them.

The triangle hood bumpers attach using the rivets to the bottom rear corners of the hood. You’ll need to drill the holes if you have an aftermarket hood. Again, seldom see anyone use them either.
FYI: I always use the prop rod gizmo as it stays hidden until needed.
Just flip the arm out for whatever side of the hood you have up.

edit pic for the ‘shiney sensitives’ on this board.

 

With pics:
https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/32-ford-hood-corner-rubber.762969/

 

From HRP’s post a few years back.



Edit: thanks joe, I was just snagging a pic from that thread. You’re too quick.

 

I always use the center L bracket that bolts to the frame midway between the front and the back and uses the round bumper included in the kit. Stops the hood side from oil canning in.

 

And just to finish it off. Here’s what the “center” bumpers look like in action.
ps: another stolen pic.



Note: if you use them, be cautious when lowering hood into position as there may be a tendency for the hood to get caught up on the hood latch bases and some paint may be sacrificed. Ask me how I know. But if Gary says use em, use em.

 

Just started following this post and thought you might be interested in this process
as you already have the modeling skills and a 3D printer. Was thinking particularly
of the custom column drop you needed, you make a 2 or 3 piece mold on the printer, fill it with
chopped carbon fiber tow and resin and clamp together. Makes extremely strong
and light weight pieces, as complex as you want. You can leave as raw fiber or
paint. We have been playing with it for a while but OT pieces.
Easy Composites explains it much better than I can.

 

Would you use them on a fenderless car with pinched frame?

 

Thanks for the idea - I've done this process many times at work (drives me crazy when people call it "forged carbon" when it's simply compression molding). If you really want something strong, try non-chopped fibers, vacuum bag it and infuse.
I got my column drop sorted out - Limeworks finally got the 4" in stock and I cut/welded (scabbed) an extension in the middle to make 5". Was the easy way out.

 

I used DZUS style buttons on my roadster with locating pins middle of hood sides.

 

Thanks for the advice - do you recall where you got the hood prop gizmo?

 

Just about everywhere sells em. Summit, speedway, cwmoss, etc.
Just price compare as they can differ a bit.
I think the last couple I bought were from Speedway (best price that day).

 

Story I heard: Lamborghini in 2010 was first company to use the process on a large scale
and called it forged carbon, even got a copyright for the phrase. Name just kind of stuck.
It's like lots of companies make high pressure laminates but everyone still calls it "Formica"

 

The problem with this method is that the carbon to resin ratio is skewed, especially if you don't have proper tooling and a heavy tonnage industrial press - resin is heavy. When you apply vacuum and infuse, the ratio is correct - just enough resin to consolidate the carbon. Parts come out amazing and unbelievably light/strong.

 

I want to thank everyone who has given me support over the past 2 years - and thank those who are currently helping me get over the finish line with this project. Almost there...

 

I'm waiting for the body shims to come in the mail (didn't actually need any when I had it mocked up before paint - but now I do).
I downloaded, printed and read the Wescott's assembly guide.
I have all of the bolts snugged down and my driver's side door is tight at the top - would and experienced builder please weigh in on what I should attack first with regard to that... A shim under the rear door jam body bolt, or crank down the bolt that goes through the brass bracket at the bottom of the cowl?

 

Adjustments are made with the Cowl
( Original Brass) legs & Very rear sub rail mount,,,
If you can not get with those adjustments , Tweeting on door hinges my be required ,, maybe doors them self.
Should of, if not done before paint ,
Body mounted secure and tight , adjustments made before .
Steel body different then Glass.

Also if plain to run hood that a fun task most of time getting adjusted,
""More Fun"" with fenders

 

I've never paid much attention to the brass bracketed part of the cowl, largely because it so awkward to get to! You can open the upper door gap by shimming behind the door, or just in front of the door effectively rocking the cowl forward. Requires the forward most bolts to be loosened off first. Indeed, I loosen all bolts on the side I'm working on, install shim and snug all up progressively. Rinse and repeat as necessary. A low powered driver speeds up the process but I let off of it before it starts hammering. Final tightening by hand with torque wrench. I've done a few but would claim to be an expert!
Chris

 

Just ordered lower door seals, lower door seal retainers and sill plates from CW Moss.
I have no idea how to install these or even where they go...
If anyone could please post photos, that would really help me.

Thanks~

 

Retainers are welded to the lower door inner, pointing down, and the rubber slides in. The sill plates are rather self explanatory (or are they?).

 

Here’s a rusty one but should give you the idea.

 

Thanks for the photo - so, the seal goes on the door, not the body. A guy was telling me that it went on the body and somehow interacted with the sill plate ???
I suppose I'll just pop rivet it on the bottom of the door, as in your pic.