it really works! i use to work with a dude that had a tired small block, i mean this thing was dead! smoked like a pot head! he bought a couple of cans and would add it like once every two weeks! the motor lived for another year! he drove that chevy motor everyday for work! i think he just got real lucky! he use to run 50 weight in it, then it got cold one morning and it was hell to get it to turn over!
If it was the rings it would smoke like hell all the time losing that much oil.You said the rear main is dripping,make sure you are not overfilling the engine,and definitly fix the oil pan plug leak,sounds more like you are leaking all the oil out at operating speeds,not burning it out.Get you some 30 weight oil for it,and honestly the only way to repair a leaky rear main is to replace it.
ya i plAN on replacing the seal this weekend,,,never done it before,,,im guessing i un bolt the motor and ****** and just jack it up a little and remove oil pan,,,,is that it? i put straight 40 weight oil in it
so what do u guys reccomend i replace the oil with? 10w-30- whats supposed to go in it straight 30 or straight 40
Have you ever just run the engine while parked over a sheet of cardboard or something so you can see whats what? I'm talking running it for at least 15 minutes, but an hour might be more revealing.
A 235 did not have a PCV valve. That is your biggest problem. All of the old engines are going to have leaks. If you install a PCV valve into your intake, you won't have a problem.
It wouldnt hurt to install a PCV system. The 235,s all leaked at the rear main seal. there is a newer neoprene seal that can be used to replace the original rope seal. How much puff back or blow by does it have? If you have excessive blow by it has bad rings or worn cyl walls or worn piston lands. also sometimes you can burn a lot of oil through the valve guides and not notice it smoking because the oil is very thouroughly mixed with the incoming air fuel mixture. It will burn and not quickly foul the sparkplugs like when you mix oil with the gas for a chain saw. Ive had engines that smoked badly due to gummy stuck rings. I soaked the cyls with a mixture of ATF diesel and turpentine for a few weeks. I pulled the pan and valve covers and steam cleaned all the sludge out. I used a synthetic diesel oil and they stopped burning oil. Those engines where in old farm tractors and one was a 55 chev 235.
blow by---are u talkin about the open vent from the side of the block? if so it has some smoke there...imma try these things from the other post and see where im at then thanks
PCV valve is a pretty easy install. Just change your oil fill cap with one with a hole in it, get a grommet and a pcv valve for a 75 Chevy 350 truck. Plumb it into manifold vacuum with a piece of hard line and little pieces of rubber hose at the manifold and at the valve. You will have to change your mixture setting after because you just induced a small vacuum leak. One thing I haven't seen mentioned yet is maybe check your coolant? I don't know, but if it's not on the ground and it's not coming out the tailpipe, the coolant is the only other place I can see it going. It would be really easy to tell, your coolant will look like chocolate milk. Mostly it goes the other way and you end up with water in your oil, but I suppose it could go the other way. I'm also wondering if the drain holes to let the oil go back in the pan from the head are plugged up with goop. Then it looks dry when you check it if you just shut it off. After sitting, that oil eventually drains into the pan but if you already refilled the oil now you are running too full. A side effect would be that you are occasionally running the engine with no oil in the pan. A cheap valve cover gasket would tell you the answer to that one in a few hours...
The reason I am thinking oil drainback more and more is because it has so few miles, driven by a little old lady on Sundays. Engine almost never got to operating temp, the oil got all sludgy, it coated the inside of everything, plugged up all the drain holes. Hell, even a few minutes running it would run your oil pump dry if that was the case. If you have a gauge it would show loss of oil pressure every time the pump went dry. There are engine sludge things you can add to the oil and run it for a few minutes and change the oil. If you haven't changed the oil yet you could grab a can and run it according to the directions and then drain the sludgy oil out. I don't suppose it would hurt anything to just run the sludge remover anyway since you are changing the oil anyway.
Last post. You may find that if you run the sludge remover you will induce some leaks here and there. It might be a better option to pull the valve cover and (I don't know this particular engine, don't shoot me) if it has side covers for lifter access those covers as well and make sure there isn't a ton of sludge plugging drain holes and preventing oil from going back into the pan. A screwdriver or a clothes hanger wire shoved in those holes would at least get the oil draining back without having to use the sludge remover which is pretty harsh. Then it would only be a matter of physically cleaning the largest portion of the sludge and regular oil changes to get that motor oil flowing good again. The last engine I ran sludge remover on immediately started leaking along the oil pan gasket. I ended up pulling it and replacing all the gaskets because of it. I think if it were me and I did find a lot of sludge, I would just make sure the oil could drain back into the pan, s****e all the big pieces off and change the oil pretty frequently for a while and use detergent oil with greater and greater percentages until I was using it at 100%.
I was thinking sticky rings too. Hopefully none broke off from being stuck to a cylinder wall. I'd add a quart of MMO to the oil and run it around town for a few days, then change the oil. Put in fresh plugs and see how it behaves, you might see some improvement. Bob
Did you take the valve cover off and see if it is full of sludge. If a little old lady had it she might not have changed the oil when due. If that is not it why not give it a ring job and grind the valves. They were good engines if only 25,000 miles it should take a ring job. Did many back in the day.
By Jakob Jelling Autorized.com The PCV valve is a control device which sends partially burned gases that come from the engine's crankcase to the combustion chamber. Its name, PCV means Positive Crankcase Ventilation and is one of the oldest and most used emission control devices. Although its name might sound very complicated, it is a very simple device and its function can be easily understood. Due to its tasks, the PCV valve is not only very useful but also implies important benefits. It completely eliminates crankcase emissions efficiently, avoiding that it becomes an air pollution factor. Besides, it also keeps the system free of moisture due to the constant air circulation that it implies. Besides, the PCV valve also helps keeping the oil and the engine in proper shape extending their life as well. Also, its mechanism is very important for preventing the appearance of engine corrosion as well as it helps improving fuel economy. This way, the PCV valve is very important for different aspects and helps car owners maintaining their cars engines in shape as well as providing them with a good administration of the fuel economy The PCV valve routes crankcase partially burned gases back to the engine. Once these gases go back to the engine, they are re-burned, allowing this way a better use and administration of fuel. The cylinders are an important part in the process since they are who re-burn the gases rerouted from the PVC valve and have a central role in it. Crankcase emissions can be a great source of air pollution, and therefore the PCV valve is very useful and important not only for the car functioning but also for the environment and health as well. Besides, this valve requires little maintenance and must be replaced at about 40.000 miles. This way, the PCV valve is an easy to maintain piece which implies an important amount of benefits that affect not only the car and its owner but also those who surround him and the environment in general due to the way in which it prevents gases from becoming air pollution factors.
Does this look like a good engine? Well it is but it took a while for me to tell. It sat for many years and "was running well when pulled". Well it smoked like a mosquito machine at the beach. Starting it up in the garage several times was not enough to free up the stuck rings. I was sick at first. I added a qt of MMO and started to drive it around for more than just a short trip. The more I drove it the better it got. The MMO breaks up the gum and lets the parts expand and contract with the heat cycles. After a few trips, it was like day and night. If I had thrown in the towel at first, I'd have spent a lot of unnecessary money for my purposes. Put a qt of MMO in it and give it some regular exercise. You might be pleasantly surprised but it won't be over night. Give the MMO a chance to work. It may not work if there is a mechanical problem like a broken ring but it's worth the try. What do you have to lose? Just have a little patience. Here is the same motor today.
the problem with adding MMO or any additive that breaks up sludge is the sludge is circulated by the oil pump through all the oil p***ages. If You are gonna replace the rear main seal anyway why not remove the valve cover and side cover and physically remove any deposits? S****e as much as you can off. Then spray any hard crusty deposits with oven cleaner and wash it off with a hose hooked to your hot water heater. Also remove rockers and dissamble and clean the shaft. do the same with the oil pump . blow compressed air through all the oil p***ages.
if he removes the oil pan, can he replace the oil pump then just cleaning it up? and dont they make one piece oil pans gaskets for inline 6?
I agree and suggest you go back and read Old wolf's more ambitious suggestion. Bite the bullet, pull the engine, strip off the oil pan, side cover, valve cover timing gear and maybe other external parts and blast it with strong detergents after s****ing everything you can get at. Then when you are sure you have it as clean as is possible, replace the seals everywhere, check the cam drive for wear, look at a couple rod bearings to see how they are holding up and replace them if they are showing any copper. ****on it back up with good quality gaskets and you will be able to feel good about it. Hey, while you're at it, get the starter and solenoid checked out too. Is it an automatic trans? Put a new front pump seal in now. It's easy. Just ask an experienced mechanic for advice if needed. This would be a good time to replace all the radiator hoses and heater hose too. Fan belt? This is all pretty inexpensive stuff that will build in some reliability in the long run. Keep a record of what you did with a few pictures so if you decide to sell it you can use them to punch up your sales pitch.
so to install this pcv valve ,,,i need a cap with a hole in it to install the pcv then a line from the pcv to the intake manifold? do i just drill a hole into the intake or can i tie it in with the va***n line off the intake that goes to the transmission modulator?
so u recomend that i use this mmo on my next oil change instead of the engine restore stuff.... ya im gunna blow it all out remove oil pan, valve cover spray some degreaser through it,,,but what do u mean my side cover,,,not sure what that is,,,i have replaced started selenoid and all heater hoses, spark plugs wire, cap,,,etc
Vacuum needs to be about 3/8 inch. There is sometimes a vacuum port under the carb or a pipe plug screwed into the manifold under the carb. I wouldn't drill it unless I planned on pulling the intake off to clean all the metal shavings. Metal shavings inside engine = bad. Make sure you use hard line for a majority of the plumbing. Regular rubber fuel line will collapse under vacuum and negate all the work you did. I'd at least make sure you have a oil pressure gauge if you aren't pulling covers. Mechanical type real cheap at the local pep boys or autozone. That way you can see that you are maintaining oil pressure and not running the oil pump dry like I think you may be doing if you have sludge in your engine. Cheap insurance against a grenaded engine. Ford engines have a side cover for installing lifters and pushrods. This engine may not...
when u say new front pump seal, what seal is that? transmission seal? i plan on replacing rear ****** seal, rear main seal, oil pan gasket, valve cover gasket,,what else do u think
Sounds like you are on track for all the seals and stuff. The front pump seal is more than likely the trans front seal. Since you are already there, why not pull it and replace a $2 part? That's probably what he meant.
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