I bought and installed The peel and seal with the metal foil from lowes in my 32 sedan. I found a roll that was 9"wide by I belive 70 feet for about $20 it was enough to do the floor all the way to the toeboards. My question is it seems a bit thin, I would say its over a 1/16th" and under an 1/8th" thick. Whats the thought on putting 2 layers on?
The foil is what does the insulating and the butyl the sound deadening. Actually more of a heat reflector or radiant barrier than it is an insulation but it works great One layer should be sufficient as far as heat reflection goes but if you need a little more sound deadening then another layer might be good. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I used the exact same thing. One layer seems to do the sound deadening pretty good. It has been on there about 8 months. I also used strips of it to hold wires in place. It seems to stick very well to the body floor steel. But a lot of the strips I used to hold wires came loose. It didn't seem to stick to itself very well for me. Your mileage may vary.
I was just wondering since my buddy said that dyna mat was thicker. Im a carpenter by trade and I know when insulating with fiberglass you want a nice blanket in a wall not smashed in, I was told fuffy not stuffy. so on the same thought I was wondering is more actually less?
Not sure without checking, but Dynamat is thicker, but I don't believe it is by much. I checked that when I bought the Lowes stuff, but I don't remember. I have it in an old model T. Never ran it without the peel and seal, but it is surprising rattlefree for an old T.
I did the floor in my Lincoln with it, it seems to keep the heat from rising. I plan on going back and doing the firewall before I install AC, I get a lot of engine heat from there. The factory rag board probably helps some, but mine is torn and missing some chunks. I was thinking about doing a double layer on it since it's the main source of heat.
I was building a engine for my Peterbilt and it necessary to remove the floor boards to do and engine swap when I put things all back together I used the peel and stick and did the just the toe board as I need to rebuild the floors later,that truck would burn you out on a summers day and in the winter didn't need a heater,just by doing the toe board cut all that heat out of the cab I damm near have to run with the windows up. Good Stuff.
The 9"stuff you bought probably was the door and window sealant. It is thinner than the roofing version. I've used both. The roofing version should be found at roofing supply houses if your local big box stores don't carry it. It is also easier found in Northern climates...I had bought it once for roofing in Colorado at Home Depot, but the HD's here in Texas don't carry it. I found it in 18, 24 and 36 widths here at ABC roofing. If that stuff looses it's tackyness...heat it with a heat gun and it'll stick like crazy.
I can't see that adding a extra layer would hurt and it possibly could add more to absorb road noise. HRP
Go to a real Speed Shop and purchase "Suppressor" matte...drag racers use it in their cars to kill heat and sound...it's 1/8" thick, foil top, self sticking (and REALLY sticks) and it really works well. I've used it in two of my cars and have zero regrets...about $60.00 for a roll...but it all goes back to those old sayings - "Quality over quantity" and "You get what you pay for." R-
I have 2 layers of Peel-N-Seal on the floor of my '40, from the firewall clear thru to the rear tool tray. Used HVAC foil tape on all seams. I didn't like the thought of heavy weight insulation in the doors or headliner, so I glued in 2 layers of foil backed bubble-wrap type insulation in those areas. I can't believe the difference! The car is quiet, solid feeling, and comfortable. Did all this about 9 months ago and haven't had one regret.
Any comments from people using peel and stick after a few years? I'm concerned if the car sits closed up in the hot sun, does it outgas and leave the car smelling like tar, or plastic?
I can't say about the other brands, but the Peel and Seal brand from Lowe's doesn't have any odor that I have noticed.
There are several threads on this and I think the general consensus is that the stuff holds up well with minimal to no outgass odor. I plan to use it in my F100 someday,
I have had the 9 inch wide Lowes stuff on parts of the floor pan of my 53 Chevy for about 10 years now. I drive the car a lot in the summer when the outside temperature is in the 90s or even low 100s and it does not smell at all. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I layered the interior of my '63 T-Bird project with it in the spring. It has sat outside in the California High Desert heat and cold since then. I even lined the inside of the roof. Haven't made any more progress on it since. None of it has fell down from the roof or peeled up anywhere else. Just testing it essentially to see durability. I am a bit concerned when I get to laying the jute in before carpet, getting it to stick to the foil.
Wipe it down with a solvent first and you should have no problem getting it to stick. I was afraid to use it on my roof but it's on the under side of my package tray and in my door skins and it's been exposed to plenty of 100+ and 0-degree weather with no peeling or lifting anywhere. Key is to make sure the metal is CLEAN and push it down nice and hard with a roller. Dust or oil will make it fall right back off.
I used it on the floorboards of my 38. Covered with high quality carpet. I alsoused it on firewall followed by a FRP firewall insulated cover (inside). Bubble wrap insulation inside the doors and trunk. So far peel and seal has held up well. g
I used one layer in most places. I think I added a second layer to the rear wheel wells under the rear seat and I don't recall it making much difference. I think one good layer does as much good as two layers. (Otherwise Dynamat would be telling everyone to "double up!")
I drive a car without a finished interior and hoped to quiet it down at least a little. I bought the small roll of Peel N Seal at Lowe's and installed it inside the doors, quarter panels, and cowl sides. I wiped the areas down thoroughly with PrepSol and dried them before installing the sheets. I doubled them up in most areas also. I wiped the aluminum surface with PrepSol afterward and sprayed flat black paint on it as well. Not sure if it did a lot of quieting down, but I'm sure it helped. It hasn't sagged or fallen out in a couple years time.
I've used the "Peel N Stick"; or similar heat sheets purchased at any Big Box store for a number of my cars; even a 65 VW Bug I recenty did; does quiet the ride and does some heat resistance; one layer. Now, my questions; or opinions please: When laying carpetting; either "pre-cut" ordered for the model and year, or even if you are doing your own carpetting, cutting and laying: "Do you "glue" the carpet down, or simply lay it"?
I buy those $20 carpets at Walmart, lay them flat and that's it. They have worked well, probably cost more now.
These guys give a good explanation of what various products do. Especially in combination. https://www.carbuilders.com.au/interior/
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