"By three methods we MAY learn wisdom" The May 2013 Banger Meet

Even if you dont have a counter balanced crank if your block is good and you want to build a performance motor look at a **** crank, you can buy them already drilled for pressure and in the long run it may work out cheeper as you can get bearings and/or rods with them.. performance costs as it is so it may be the way to go.

 

I already have a built engine ready to go in. I just needed to know if it is counterbalanced should I decide to sell the engine. I don't like misrepresenting something. People have asked, and I didn't have an answer.

 

Does **** have cranks available for Model A?

 

aren't the clutch and flywheel different on a counterbalanced engine vs. non?

I'f you weren't so far away I would be into it counterbalanced or not.

 

27 15/16" at the very bottom (larger at top)


Hitchhiker--

" aren't the clutch and flywheel different on a counterbalanced engine vs. non?"

NO. B flywheel is lighter than an A, But all B's are the same. After late '28 all Clutches (A&B) are the same, although the big truck disk didn't have the torsion springs in the hub.

From start to late '28, A clutch and flywheel were different, as clutch was multiple disk

Counterbalanced cranks were put in B engines when they went through authorized Ford rebuilding sites, "diamond" block or not.

Herb

 

Hi Greg yes they have a good web site if you do a search www.****enterprises.com
For us in New Zealand I think it is the way to go built A @ B motors are never cheap but a **** crank pre drilled with bearings and rods takes a lot of the problems out when you are in a area where building performance banger motors is not so common. A lot of rebuilders will tell you they can build a performance motor easy but the truth is there is so much new performance gear out that they have never heard of that you should take your time researching your build form a plan and stick to it.
New gear avalible consists of a range of overhead and flathead heads cranks pistons bearings rods and cams sumps a range of gearbox conversions and of course front plates some with angle drives for modern type distributors .
It is nothing to spend 10 thousand NZ on a performance motor done right and then a small block Chev off the shelf will probably go better. A stock banger is proably a lot cheaper but we are talking performance built motors here. Even then they brake if not treated right . I hate hearing a hot banger being reved hard at stand still even with a lightened flywheel you have a lot of weight trying to twist your crank in half.

 

Fitted rear fenders and built a new bed today!

 

Thanks and I agree with you entirely. In the 90s I spent 10K with all the wrong people here on a B engine and it was junk really. I am interested to look at the **** cranks as I would like to put something decent in the new project.

 

Thanks for the information on the door dimensions. Now I can start ***embly.

 

Help.
I'm hoping to change the means of starting my model A 4 banger from a foot start to a ****on on the dash to start it. Can it be done using the stock A starter? If so what will it take to do this change over?

Thank you Mike

 

I remember read about this on Ford Barn. Sorry I can't remember the details.

 

Mike,

Check out this; http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=61209

And this one - Bruce Lancaster gives good info on using a stock 37-48 Ford solenoid in his post on page 2; http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=70795&page=2

 

I've no connection to this .........just thought someone here might like an engine

http://forums.aaca.org/f119/win-freshly-rebuilt-model-engine-inserted-350010.html

Don't contact me

 

I used a solenoid for a Ford 8 n tractor and mounted it on the starter, had to drill and tap 2 10x32 holes for mounting. Then flattened and drilled and bent piece of 1/2" copper tubing to connect to starter, As it got more involved I decided next time I would mount it to the firewall but hate to drill any new holes, woulda been easier tho. The wiring itself is simple, you connect the existing wire that goes to the starter to one side of the solenoid and then connect the other side to the starter by tapping into the copper post or take it to the starter shop and have them install a post. Some solenoids switch on the ground side and some the hot side. I kept energizing my solenoid with the negative (hot) side and it dawned on me that it needed to be the ground side. I mounted the simple early V8 push switch on a piece of s**** Al and used one of the dash rail screws. 'Course I use a V8 starter so it already had a threaded post.

 

Thanks to all you for your help, I pulled the starter today and it has one of the modern bendix. It looks like it's been riding on the back side of the ring gear and I been heard a clatter sound, which I think that many be what I been hearing. My plans are to change the start from foot to dash ****on, and shim the starter.
Mike

 

Thanks for the links.

 

Help a newbie out...... Probably a dumb question. I have a 32 model B. I have a neighbor storing some A engines in my dad's barn. He is a Plymouth guy. I was looking at them this weekend hoping the stars would align and one would be a police head. No such luck... but one is a b6050 speed head. I can't seem to find a straight answer as to what this is. I know it was produced in the 40's but what is the compression and what is the market rate? If some one put the speed head on should I also check for the counterbalanced crank?

 

No such thing as a factory counterbalanced crank for an A. Modern aftermarket, and old stock cranks with counterweights welded on appearing now, but not very likely on a "barn" engine.

Herb

 

You might try the Ford Barn 19928 to 1931. Lots of experts. They have a link usually at the bottom of the page.

 

Im on there as well. I thought there was a counterbalanced B crank that fits in an A block? This is basically a hoard of A parts he bought at auction somewhere.

 

It is possible to fit a C'balanced crank in to an A block. But it is not likely that you will find one on the floor of a barn.

Unless it is a barn of an old racer.

.

 

In the process of removing the engine I got sidetracked a bit. First I needed some way to lift the motor and trans out of the car neatly.

Then of course an adaptation for my engine stand to work with different balance combinations. I looked at the engine stand combos I could find pictures of and thought some folks might like to critique my version.

Click on the images for a larger view.



Now to find time to get on with the actual project.

Regards,
-Joemac

 

I am a MAFFI (Model A Ford Foundation)Trustee (Board Member)and FAST member with a back ground in high performance/racing and thought that that your Model A Museum should have a display that depicts the performance side of the A engine. I contacted my friend Jim Brierly about locating some performance equipment that I could ***emble an display engine. Jim said he had an old brazed up Winfield head he would give me. He called back later and said he wanted to ***emble the entire engine, I couldn’t turn him down, this was too good to be true. <?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Well we now had one engine committed so let’s see if we can do another but an OHV version. So I contacted our Nor-Cal FAST sparkplug Steve Straw to see if we could somehow get another engine for the museum. Steve jumped at the idea and said he would spearhead the project. By the Turlock Swap Meet we didn’t have a head yet and both Steve and I were sweating bullets, but by noon both of us had commitments for two heads and Steve Straw choose to use the Miller he located.
<o> </o>
Steve Straw finished his project prior to when Brierly was due up for the Auburn Hill Climb and the Miller OHV display was loaded into Jim’s trailer. Jim has completed his project and loaded his in with the OHV. Jim leaves for the museum June 6<SUP>th</SUP>, should arrive around the 15<SUP>th</SUP> and we have another Trustee and museum staff to help unload and position them in them museum. Jim then leaves for the Speedy Bill’s semi-annual speedster event in Lincoln Neb. After the engines are in place I will post pictures so all can see the latest additions.<o></o>
I would like to take this opportunity to express my gra***ude to those mentioned above and the actual 50 + others that made these display engines possible, very fine additions to your museum, Thank You Very Much.<o></o>
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Those who haven’t or need to support your Model A Museum you can do so at MAFFI.org or contact me directly.<o></o>

 

Finally had Artiki's old engine up and running without spitting oil out of the rear main so I took it for a spin up Prescott Hillclimb after an over ten hour drive in torrential rain with many fuel pump disasters...
Jumps out of second gear approaching Pardon bend.

 

This bend in fact...

 

Thank you for the video...... it loads quicker of the youtube sight

Looks like too much fun

 

that last pic was awesome!