Hey guys, Trying to wrap my head around bypass type wiring for a Ford inductive ammeter. I am wiring a '50 Ford from scratch, changing to 12v neg ground. Using a standard 10SI alternator. Do I run the normal wire from alternator to battery, and then also from alternator to main junction (main junction in this case is the ignition switch itself) and from main junction through the ammeter loop to the battery? Or do I need to run the feed from the alternator to the main junction, then two wires from the main junction to the battery with only one of them passing through the ammeter loop? I've done a whole lot of wiring harnesses, but virtually all of them that weren't bone stock factory reproduction deals have used volt gauges. This is just one thing I'm not so familiar with. Don't know why I can't figure it out in my head..
Boy howdy you don't ask easy question at midnight. Especially after I had a couple of drinks at my 60th Class reunion. This is a one size fits all diagram for an idiot light, ammeter or volt meter and shows how each hooks up. With the inductive gauge you just run the wire through the holder for a lack of a better term on the back of the gauge and on to the battery or terminal that connects to the + post of the battery provided it is negative ground. The magnetic field flowing through the wire is what moves the needle. The good thing is that although you may peg the needle you can't overload the gauge with the amp flow as with one that the power actually flows through the gauge.
Made a couple alterations (crudely) to the diagram. With an ammeter all the electricity going to or from the battery should pass through the gauge. Also the voltmeter should be on the load side of the ignition switch otherwise it will be a constant load on the battery even when off.
The Jalopy Journal
